Build Rebuild of Trusty
- Thread starter POPO AGIE
- Start date
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
The next owner will find them.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #285
Set up so the top hole could be transferred punch for drilling. The clamp was holding to the frame and the 2 magnets provided the extra hands. lined up with the shock bolted to the axle and eye balled the rod between the eyes.
Punch mark for first hole to be drilled
Had to bend the lower shock eye to help lining up with the top of the shock tower and the shim on the back of the tower was setting flat on the support plate for the bump stop.
Got the top hole drilled out and bolted the tower with the top bolt hole and transfer punched the bottom hole
Punch mark for bottom hole
Both holes drilled
Punch mark for first hole to be drilled
Had to bend the lower shock eye to help lining up with the top of the shock tower and the shim on the back of the tower was setting flat on the support plate for the bump stop.
Got the top hole drilled out and bolted the tower with the top bolt hole and transfer punched the bottom hole
Punch mark for bottom hole
Both holes drilled
I need to go back and figure out your brake setup.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #288
What do you want to know? This is the kit I bought and then I cut the shim off of the adapter and got brake line supports from Trail Gear.
The rear I reused my my front hubs and then just used front rotors and calipers after I converted the FJ60 axle to full floater.
Easy enough. I wondered if you pieced it together or got a kit.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #291
Set up to use the winch on the truck to rotate the FJ40 to work on the PS shock tower. Didn't want to work with my back towards the wall.
Removed the wheel and prepped to remove the fender
Dripped the bib
Removed the fender because the new shock tower is 2" taller and will not fit in the inner fender where the stock tower was
Removed the wheel and prepped to remove the fender
Dripped the bib
Removed the fender because the new shock tower is 2" taller and will not fit in the inner fender where the stock tower was
I have read about this before. Thank you for clarifying
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #294
Starting position of the lower shock mount
Use magnets and a c-clamp to secure and check alignment with a shock and transfer punch both holes
Final position of the lower shock mount after checking with the shock and eye balled in
Transfer punch marks
Set up the mag base after trying to drill both by hand the lower hole work hardened and could not drill by hand, bits are getting dull
Use magnets and a c-clamp to secure and check alignment with a shock and transfer punch both holes
Final position of the lower shock mount after checking with the shock and eye balled in
Transfer punch marks
Set up the mag base after trying to drill both by hand the lower hole work hardened and could not drill by hand, bits are getting dull
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #295
Worked through the bottom hole and drilled out to 1/2" and inserted a bolt
Moved mag base and finished drilling the upper hole and inserted both the bolts with shock tower
The bolts would not insert from the inside so I used a step bet to camphor the holes on both sides to remove the attached cuttings
Installed the wheel an set back down on the skate
Put the fender back on and bolted to the bib to help with alignment getting the bolts in the fender and done for the night
While working on the shock towers I found the fan shroud was loose because the self tapping screws did not hold in the radiator support and will pull the cooling stack and drill and bolt this time
Moved mag base and finished drilling the upper hole and inserted both the bolts with shock tower
The bolts would not insert from the inside so I used a step bet to camphor the holes on both sides to remove the attached cuttings
Installed the wheel an set back down on the skate
Put the fender back on and bolted to the bib to help with alignment getting the bolts in the fender and done for the night
While working on the shock towers I found the fan shroud was loose because the self tapping screws did not hold in the radiator support and will pull the cooling stack and drill and bolt this time
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #298
Today removed the bib to pull the cooling stack to secure the lower fan shroud
Replaced the self taping screws with a M6 bolts
While the cooling stack was out of the way I installed the serpentine belt and was the first one I have done. I used my long handled flex 1/2 drive ratchet and it took the entire travel from the inner fender to the fan hub to get the belt on to the alternator pully
Bolted the new hones on each side of the radiator support
Replaced the self taping screws with a M6 bolts
While the cooling stack was out of the way I installed the serpentine belt and was the first one I have done. I used my long handled flex 1/2 drive ratchet and it took the entire travel from the inner fender to the fan hub to get the belt on to the alternator pully
Bolted the new hones on each side of the radiator support
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #299
Once the cooling stack was back in and the bib installed we used the tractor to push back as far as we could
Used the spare against a pole to stop any further movement
This was a test to see if I could park my truck in front of it and still have room to work on each side
Looking at your pics , you will need longer shackles, the front one max out before the springs got flat , through the frame longer shackle can be a good altenative to get more travel and keep the spring level .
The rear one will invert for sur and are probably too short for those lift spring
The rear one will invert for sur and are probably too short for those lift spring