Build Rebuild of Trusty
- Thread starter POPO AGIE
- Start date
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POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #262
On the PS I was able to get the lower rivet out by beating it out but the upper one would not move so I had to keep drilling with larger bits until it was able to be knocked out
Got some G-8 hardware to mount the new mounts and then shot with some paint, these are HD mounts from Trail Taylor
Got some G-8 hardware to mount the new mounts and then shot with some paint, these are HD mounts from Trail Taylor
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #263
Worked on the DS motor mount on the bell housing. I started to open the hole in the frame with a die grinder but the progress was very slow. I found the bent bolt that came out. Did a little more grinding on the motor mount to clear the adapter plate on the block.
Finally go the bent bolt and old isolators to work and got all 3 bolts into to the bell housing. Ordered a new stock nut and cotter key and have enough threads inside the frame.
Got the 3 bolts tight in the bell housing and the bolt into the frame as it was when I took it apart and I know it is crooked but it will get better once I have a nut on the bottom and will watch the torque. It took a lot to get all 4 bolts to cooperate. The old isolators are also more forgiving then the new ones were.
Started on modifying the steering column by cutting the end of the shaft off
Finally go the bent bolt and old isolators to work and got all 3 bolts into to the bell housing. Ordered a new stock nut and cotter key and have enough threads inside the frame.
Got the 3 bolts tight in the bell housing and the bolt into the frame as it was when I took it apart and I know it is crooked but it will get better once I have a nut on the bottom and will watch the torque. It took a lot to get all 4 bolts to cooperate. The old isolators are also more forgiving then the new ones were.
Started on modifying the steering column by cutting the end of the shaft off
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #264
Mounted the column back in and started checking the fit with the intermediate shaft at full compression of the long splines at the u-joint at the steering box
I dont think I will shorten the steering column anymore then where I already cut it but that may change. I put a cut line and where the end of the spines will need to be for the upper u-joint with the intermediate shaft at full extension form the lower u-joint.
I dont think I will shorten the steering column anymore then where I already cut it but that may change. I put a cut line and where the end of the spines will need to be for the upper u-joint with the intermediate shaft at full extension form the lower u-joint.
When I did my 80 box/intermediate shaft, I was left with a small stub sticking out of the firewall. Just enough to get the adapter ujoint on there.
Looking good
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #268
I also was in contact with Axis today and shipped off the PCU for the R2.8 to have it configured for a fast idle and turn off the e-fan control since I have installed a mechanical fan.
Once it has been configured they will ship it back including the bracket for bolting the Cummins e-pedal where the stock pedal bolted up.
Once it has been configured they will ship it back including the bracket for bolting the Cummins e-pedal where the stock pedal bolted up.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #269
The shop called to let me know that the intermediate shaft had be cut and welded to retain the splines and turned down the shaft in the column for a tight fit in the u-joint and installed a bearing that has a flange in the bottom end of the column tube that works better then the one I bought.
Cut the section out between the two lines and prepped to weld back together
Finished after welding
Cleaned and painted the column
Flanged bearing the shop installed, the rubber seal is now gone
Cut the section out between the two lines and prepped to weld back together
Finished after welding
Cleaned and painted the column
Flanged bearing the shop installed, the rubber seal is now gone
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #270
Cleaned and painted the column support
The end of the shaft in the column was only turned down for a tight fit and had to use a brass hammer to slide into place
It is hard to see but once I got the u-joint on the shaft where the engagement was good I used a 1/4" die grinder bit to reach in to cut a notch in the shaft so the bolt would reach and engage the the threads on the u-joint
Shaft installed with the slip joint at the steering box
All intermediate shaft and u-joints installed
The end of the shaft in the column was only turned down for a tight fit and had to use a brass hammer to slide into place
It is hard to see but once I got the u-joint on the shaft where the engagement was good I used a 1/4" die grinder bit to reach in to cut a notch in the shaft so the bolt would reach and engage the the threads on the u-joint
Shaft installed with the slip joint at the steering box
All intermediate shaft and u-joints installed
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #271
I put the stock steering wheel on and rotated the shaft to check the clearance of the bolt head on the lower u-joint and water pump elbow and had plenty of clearance
Mechanically complete and ready to plumb the hydraulic hoses and cooler once I order and get delivered. The first time since 1991 input from the steering wheel the front tires are in sync. Also siting on skates the steering feels very smooth being direct now.
Last edited:
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #273
I installed the new tow hooks
Today I put the extension on my on my off road jack and set it to the highest setting and put it under the U-bolt plate and lifted until the the angle was living the U-bolt plate off the out side and stopped. Checked the clearance with the bolt head on the u-joint and the elbow on the water pump. But looks like if I don't put extensions on the bump stops to keep the tie rod from coming in contact with the pitman arm nut.
Still have clearance
I used a transfer punch on the fender support bolts that broke off be for removing the plate they used my transmission jack to help support the mag base but did not work very well and there was no room to get a C-clamp in to hold it to the frame and used it when I could. then switch to drilling by hand.
Drilled out the two broken bolts and drilling one by hand caused the the welds on the nut to break off.
Today I put the extension on my on my off road jack and set it to the highest setting and put it under the U-bolt plate and lifted until the the angle was living the U-bolt plate off the out side and stopped. Checked the clearance with the bolt head on the u-joint and the elbow on the water pump. But looks like if I don't put extensions on the bump stops to keep the tie rod from coming in contact with the pitman arm nut.
Still have clearance
I used a transfer punch on the fender support bolts that broke off be for removing the plate they used my transmission jack to help support the mag base but did not work very well and there was no room to get a C-clamp in to hold it to the frame and used it when I could. then switch to drilling by hand.
Drilled out the two broken bolts and drilling one by hand caused the the welds on the nut to break off.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #274
Installed a M81.25 rev-nut where the old nut was so all 4 bolts are the same
Did some cleaning on the frame with a wire wheel and had to change the battery and got it cleaner then this
Once it was cleaned up shot some paint on the frame and installed the fender support plate with new bolts
Set up to weld 1/2 thick flat bar to shim shock mount out to clear the steering box
Did some crappy welding with both 6011 and tried to cover with 7018 but will be under compression with bolts
Did some cleaning on the frame with a wire wheel and had to change the battery and got it cleaner then this
Once it was cleaned up shot some paint on the frame and installed the fender support plate with new bolts
Set up to weld 1/2 thick flat bar to shim shock mount out to clear the steering box
Did some crappy welding with both 6011 and tried to cover with 7018 but will be under compression with bolts
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #275
Tried to set up with a c-clamp and use an old shock to line up as best I could to transfer punch. But because I was in a hurry I throw the shock mount into the show and the hardened the flat bar.
I tried to use the mag base to drill through flat bar and into the frame but could not get it work even with the transmission jack to took it off and tried to set up on the fab table and still could not drill the flat bar and kept breaking cobalt bits. have hole started but gave up and take to a machine shop to get it drilled.
I tried to use the mag base to drill through flat bar and into the frame but could not get it work even with the transmission jack to took it off and tried to set up on the fab table and still could not drill the flat bar and kept breaking cobalt bits. have hole started but gave up and take to a machine shop to get it drilled.
Sometimes hi speed steel bits works better. Other times carbide $$$ bits are the ticket. AnchorLube is good stuff. If the drill bit squeals you have work hardened the material.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #277
I did it to myself getting into a hurry and quenching it in the snow after welding. The mag base wont stick to the frame horizontally very will and cant get in there with a c-clamp like I did drilling for the steering box.
I will take it to the machine shop and get the holes drilled in the flat bar.
I also have to drill out the top holes in the towers so that top and bottom are the same diameter.
I will take it to the machine shop and get the holes drilled in the flat bar.
I also have to drill out the top holes in the towers so that top and bottom are the same diameter.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #279
Went out and installed the last nut for the DS transmission motor mount on the bent bolt. Then between losing the cotter pins or dropping them inside the frame I went through 7 before I got the pin through the bolt to bend. I took some finagling to get it to starts reaching through the window in the frame.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
I fear that one bolt when I have to do it soon. Glad you got it done.