nice clean work.....
Rear Winch Install
- Thread starter 98 SNAKE EATER
- Start date
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Very nice, clean work, as so typical of your work.
Made me think about doing this sometime. Then I remember I live where they put salt on the roads...
Fortunately, bright sunny Florida has no such abomination. But I think I'd still consider more protection from the elements and, perhaps, one of those fancy solenoids?
Reason I'm saying is that anything that lives on a Land Cruiser has got to be tough. I was just under the hood looking at my front winch install recently. It's kinda cooked the Smittybilt plastic solenoid box, still doing the splashguard thing, but makes me wonder about the long term reliability of tucking it away from the elements there without some sort of upgrade.
Yours is kind of hanging out there in grungeland, so might be something to peek at in six months and see how things are doing. Cause when you really need a rear winch, you're going to want to count on it.
Man, that was a buzzkill, but the bright flower of your winch's youth just got me to thinking about the sands (and MUD!) of time. I must be getting old...
:whoops:
I still like it, though
Made me think about doing this sometime. Then I remember I live where they put salt on the roads...
Fortunately, bright sunny Florida has no such abomination. But I think I'd still consider more protection from the elements and, perhaps, one of those fancy solenoids?
Reason I'm saying is that anything that lives on a Land Cruiser has got to be tough. I was just under the hood looking at my front winch install recently. It's kinda cooked the Smittybilt plastic solenoid box, still doing the splashguard thing, but makes me wonder about the long term reliability of tucking it away from the elements there without some sort of upgrade.
Yours is kind of hanging out there in grungeland, so might be something to peek at in six months and see how things are doing. Cause when you really need a rear winch, you're going to want to count on it.
Man, that was a buzzkill, but the bright flower of your winch's youth just got me to thinking about the sands (and MUD!) of time. I must be getting old...
:whoops:I still like it, though
- Thread starter
- #23
I don't see it any different than having it up front, but I would like to replace the current noids with a sealed Albright unit 
My biggest concern is actually having the solenoids freeze during the winter
Not a problem for my front winch cause the noid pack stays nice and warm under the hood
My biggest concern is actually having the solenoids freeze during the winter
Not a problem for my front winch cause the noid pack stays nice and warm under the hood
Man, how is it that every time you do something i am even more jealous of how awesome your rig is? That is a beautiful install, and i must say you are a maser at your craft(s). look forward to seeing how it all works out when needed.
Very nice install and thanks for the pics!
- Thread starter
- #27
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah, I just used that as a reference for size.
Ended up getting a steel one from Warn
(#28930)
looks good snake
This is a good point. I've had one bolted to the underbelly for a while. Years of being exposed to the elements (lots of road salt in UT) and being submerged multiple times appears to have left it no worse for wear. Though mounting the control box in the interior probably helps. I also fixed some rubber sheeting around the winch to cut down on exposure to the grunge. Something you might consider snake.
Also I am in the process of teaching my 16-year-old daughter how to drive a stick. She has a hard time remembering where the gears are. I think I've found a solution
This is a good point. I've had one bolted to the underbelly for a while. Years of being exposed to the elements (lots of road salt in UT) and being submerged multiple times appears to have left it no worse for wear. Though mounting the control box in the interior probably helps. I also fixed some rubber sheeting around the winch to cut down on exposure to the grunge. Something you might consider snake.
Also I am in the process of teaching my 16-year-old daughter how to drive a stick. She has a hard time remembering where the gears are. I think I've found a solution
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Snake,
Sorry if this question is answered in the pictures, because I can't see them at work (personal network/storage sites are blocked). Anyway, does the above quote insinuate that you are only running a power cable to the rear and are grounding the winch to the frame? I ask this because I'm about to wire up my rear winch and was thinking about using the frame as a conduit and just running a ground strap from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the winch.
- Thread starter
- #32
Also I am in the process of teaching my 16-year-old daughter how to drive a stick. She has a hard time remembering where the gears are. I think I've found a solution
lol
I'll be running both positive and negative since I have plenty of 1G. welding cable on hand, however, there's nothing wrong with using a chassis ground as long as you add a proper ground cable from the battery to the chassis
I've seen plenty of botched installs where people use super huge 1/0 Gauge power cables and never bother to upgrade the factory ground
- Thread starter
- #33
A little photo update....
Added a toggle switch and light under the dash....
It controls a PAC500 main cut-off solenoid mounted under the hood that sends power to both front and rear winches...
Each winch has their own safety cut-off key switch that sends sends power to the controller circuit which can be used by either the hand controller or the interior control switches (seat heater switches)
Added a toggle switch and light under the dash....
It controls a PAC500 main cut-off solenoid mounted under the hood that sends power to both front and rear winches...
Each winch has their own safety cut-off key switch that sends sends power to the controller circuit which can be used by either the hand controller or the interior control switches (seat heater switches)
Sweet!
Your truck has to weigh double what it did in stock form. It starting to look more lock a cockpit than a drivers seat. How many lbs of wire and switches have you added?
Your truck has to weigh double what it did in stock form. It starting to look more lock a cockpit than a drivers seat. How many lbs of wire and switches have you added?
Yet another awesome install. It amazes me hoe not only is everything you do freaking cool, but it looks so clean and well done. You have a heck of a set up and are the example when people say it's neverending. Awesome work man.
- Thread starter
- #36
A little update on the top plate
Still baking in the booth, but the plan is to back the Land Cruiser logo with a plexi filter and back light it with either LED's or a neon tube whenever the main power solenoid for the winches is powered up
Still baking in the booth, but the plan is to back the Land Cruiser logo with a plexi filter and back light it with either LED's or a neon tube whenever the main power solenoid for the winches is powered up
Looks good. Did you cut it out by hand?
- Thread starter
- #38
Oops, I meant to post this in my BIOR thread
But to answer your question, it was done by laser
But to answer your question, it was done by laser
- Thread starter
- #39
Added an Anderson connector to the rear wing for jumper cables
Didn't have room to drill, so I had to yank the tailgate off
It uses the same relay switched source as the winches so I don't have to worry about kids with paperclips getting zapped
Used 1000Amp HD clamps and soldered up 17ft. of 2Ga. cable
Gunna add some Braided Expando to keep them together
Didn't have room to drill, so I had to yank the tailgate off
It uses the same relay switched source as the winches so I don't have to worry about kids with paperclips getting zapped
Used 1000Amp HD clamps and soldered up 17ft. of 2Ga. cable
Gunna add some Braided Expando to keep them together
I love your builds! Can't wait to see how it all turns out!
