Rear side panels with gear storage (3 Viewers)

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That looks great! For the interior door panels (your front passenger door is pictured), is that how the factory panels fit on an fj60? My fj62 interior door panels go all the way up to the window, and then the inside rubber/felt wiper piece that goes along the bottom of the window fastens to the door panel. So my question is if the fj60 factory door panels do the same, or do they end where your replacement door panels end. If the factory door panels are like the fj62, what did you do about the rubber/felt wiper piece that goes along the bottom of the window when you replaced the door panels?

The 60 panels also wrapped up to the window with the attached weather stripping. I removed the top wrap to expose the metal panel. It is painted the same color as the rest of the truck. I got weather stripping from the local pick/pull and the metal clips that holds it in and cut them to length and clipped them in.....the inner lip of the door actually has the clip holes in them! As you can see by the other pix I went for the exposed metal look on the interior, including raising the headliner up to the top of the pillars.

I hope this helps.
 
Just an option....

1/8 inch ABS plastic. It comes in 4x8 sheets and textured. Most larger cities have plastic companies that sell it. I used the old panels as patterns and just drilled the holes where the original fitting went. I used plastic push rivets that you can get at Lowes/HD. The panels are removable by unscrewing the rivets. You can mold the plastic around the jack bracket and wiring loom by heating it was a heat gun.

Britklr

thats really sweet.
what did you do for an access panel on the jack side?
 
Ohhhh, daddy like! My 60 does not have panels, just open spots. Does anyone have templates???? I think I like the ABS version as well, may be my #2 choice if the aluminum doesn't pan out. (sorry no pun intended)
 
thats really sweet.
what did you do for an access panel on the jack side?

The plastic rivets have a standard screw head on them and can be removed to get to the inside. I have the stock jack in place, but since I have a lift, I use the Hi-lift jack for any jacking. The Hi-lift sits on the front bumper.
2008 Colorado Trip 108.jpg
 
The plastic rivets have a standard screw head on them and can be removed to get to the inside. I have the stock jack in place, but since I have a lift, I use the Hi-lift jack for any jacking. The Hi-lift sits on the front bumper.

thread hijack. where was that cool photo taken?
 
And where was that abs material purchased? Yellow pages under plastics, abs or fun things to shape with my heat gun?
 
Pretty much every metropolitan area will have a plastic distributer, be sure to call around if there are more than one, some of the mark-ups can be ridiculous.

Compare the rates between ABS and HDPE, both are good choices, if you can get marine grade HDPE it will be a lot more stable though.
:cheers:
 
The plastic rivets have a standard screw head on them and can be removed to get to the inside.

could you post a pic or two of the rivets?
was shopping around homedepo and could'nt seem to find them.
of course i'm not sure what i'm after.

picked a sheet of the plastic up this afternoon. 25 bucks for a 4x8 sheet.

just need to track down a source for some rubber floor matting stuff.
 
I have to say up front that I stole this idea from Kevin at Wagongear.com. I was interested in getting a set from him, much nicer than these plywood jobs. But for this old cruiser, I couldn't justify the expense. Plus I needed a project to work on.

I used 3/8 plywood and 5/16 hardware with nylon locking nuts. I used weatherstriping (for home use, i.e. doors, etc. bought at Lowe's) on the access doors and around the entire sealing edge on the back. The main function of these is to keep the dust out of my cab. The Qps are rusted out and a lot of dust was making its way in through the leaky old interior panels. No dust no more.
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Can you please share a drawing or dimensions please. i would like to make one for my FJ
 
BTW, old thread revival. I tried pretty good steel nutserts on the side panels holes. 2 were loose and spun.
What a huge PITA to remove! I would not recommend, the interior tin is too thin to really get a good grip
with nutserts. I still looking at/for alternatives now.
 
BTW, old thread revival. I tried pretty good steel nutserts on the side panels holes. 2 were loose and spun.
What a huge PITA to remove! I would not recommend, the interior tin is too thin to really get a good grip
with nutserts. I still looking at/for alternatives now.
Good point about the nutserts. I used u-nut clips when I did mine and they have held up well. Just another option.

Screenshot 2023-01-24 at 11.18.26 AM.png
 
I make laser cut ABS cargo panels. I finally settled on Auveco 20247 fasteners. I was hesitant to go plastic, but they hold better and are MUCH easier to install than nutserts or u-clips.
 
I make laser cut ABS cargo panels. I finally settled on Auveco 20247 fasteners. I was hesitant to go plastic, but they hold better and are MUCH easier to install than nutserts or u-clips.
They are essentially indestructible on my ATV. So good idea. Thanks! They could be countersunk
too, clean it right up. I always hated bolt heads and anything that can catch and scratch on fabric
like jackets and sleeping bags.
 
They are essentially indestructible on my ATV. So good idea. Thanks! They could be countersunk
too, clean it right up. I always hated bolt heads and anything that can catch and scratch on fabric
like jackets and sleeping bags.
The heads of the 20247 do stick out, but they are rounded and don't catch on anything.

With even pressure on two sides of the center portion of the head (like two opposing screwdrivers), they open right up too. Just pull the center part out 80% of the way and not 100%. They're really easy to work with.
 

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