Tailgate storage fab (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 5, 2021
Threads
9
Messages
56
Location
pasadena CA
Well I got a wild hair last night...

I thought I found the perfect off the (Marine/boat supply) shelf item for tailgate storage -

1697138223232.png

That's a BOMAR cast aluminum storage hatch in approx the right size. BUT it's $700+ for 1 ouch
Their plastic options are interesting but sit kinda high and still cost $100+

CUT TO -

Me deciding to try and make tailgate storage compartments.

I know Huracan is making a nice one and I should just buy that but there are a couple details I'm not crazy about on it.

So I jumped on Tinkercad and drew up this situation -

1697137686133.png


It's in 3 pieces because SendCutSend can't handle the overall length I'm going for. BUT this is ok as I am not planning to cut the middle portion out of the gate and the solid piece pictured is strictly for keeping the gate surface level.

Sent it off the SendCutSend to do in 10ga mild steel at a cost of $98.00 with tax and shipping.

Ordered some latches and stainless piano hinges in a decent thickness ( I think I got .06 material thickness but wanted .09 ) from Amazon $40.18-

1697137994324.png
1697138032807.png


I'll be making my own latch and hinge holes for this set. Assuming it works well I'll add the cuts to the CAD file later.

I'll have to weld on my own stop plates inside for the door closure. If this works I'll probably have them cut next time for a full surround stop surface.
I think I have enough stock in my garage and JUST enough welding skill to avoid burning through my expensive cut bits

It'll all get assembled with stainless hardware

I'm planning to mount to the existing trim clip holes using these rubber thread rivets-

1697138585008.png


Then i'll just drive around with them full of stuff to see how things rattle etc.

And then I'll just be painting with SEM Cordovan brown to match the interior bits I've already painted. I actually prefer the marine carpet that Huracan does but I want it to be brown.

I'm writing this here for personal motivation but I'll also make the cad files available here for anyone who likes the finished product.

I figure I'll be into the finished product for just under $200 if all goes well. But that won't be a powder coat finish.

The parts list off the top of my head -

Cut sheet steel
flat bar for door stops
latches
hinges
hardware (screws, nuts, washers)
foam insulation for gate interior
rubber rivets
sticky felt or foam for metal to metal rattle areas
Paint or Carpet

I should have the cut bits by end of next week. I'll post pics when they arrive and once I get them "processed"

And finally, MakerCase has some pretty interesting drawing software online that might make for a nice built in box ratheer than having all the gear up against sheet metal body panels. But that's for "later"
 
Last edited:
Good god.. 10 ga steel. Damn thing is going to rip the hinges out. That will weigh almost twice as much as my .190" aluminum one and people say its too heavy.

There are companies that make bumpers out of 10 ga steel... yikes.

Can only image trying to open and close it with it being loaded up.
 
LOL this is why it's an experiment on my end. I've always had to learn the hard way.

I'm certainly not an engineer and I'm erring on the side of too strong. I'll have to re-cut in thinner material if it's really stupid...

ALSO! I should have said that I'm mainly doing this because a former owner cut 6x9 speaker holes into the gate. I constantly wonder about them as I climb in and out to do other interior work. I mean how much NOT carrying of stuff do you plan to do when your work surface can be made out of speaker?

1697141394594.png

It makes me feel crazy looking at them.

Realistically I could just plate over the whole thing. I don't need the storage for the way we use this truck but like i said "a wild hair"
 
Last edited:
LOL this is why it's an experiment on my end. I've always had to learn the hard way.

I'm certainly not an engineer and I'm erring on the side of too strong. I'll have to re-cut in thinner material if it's really stupid...

Sq ft weight of the 10 ga alone is approx. 40#. Then add the tailgate shell (32.4#) latches, hardware, sound proofing and gear....

I can see a 80-140# tailgate pending gear add ins.
 
As pictured with powder- installed weight 21.8# aluminum



View attachment 3454078
I've seen this before but couldn't locate it last night in my frenzy of drawing and ordering too heavy steel bits. I don't have TIG or a spool gun so I have to default to steel for my personal fab use.

Also mine are smaller. I have the outside edge sitting inside the raised portion, just covering the mounting holes, of the sheet metal to hopefully gain a lower profile overall.

But that makes my doors smaller and maybe makes the whole situation less useful. Time will tell
 
I've seen this before but couldn't locate it last night in my frenzy of drawing and ordering too heavy steel bits. I don't have TIG or a spool gun so I have to default to steel for my personal fab use.

Also mine are smaller. I have the outside edge sitting inside the raised portion, just covering the mounting holes, of the sheet metal to hopefully gain a lower profile overall.

But that makes my doors smaller and maybe makes the whole situation less useful. Time will tell

No welding on mine at all. Just bolt together aluminum. My doors also have a full backing plate too.

J
 
No welding on mine at all. Just bolt together aluminum. My doors also have a full backing plate too.

J
Are they available for sale though? I don't find them on your website. ALSO, will you be restocking anodized rear fj60 exterior vents? I'm getting close to painting this truck and would like to have your vents front and rear as well as your apron seals.
 
UPDATE -

received my SendCutSend parts today.

1697684101564.png



1697684178811.png


They are a good fit. I made them smaller than most of the offerings from real maker/builders. I wanted the edges to sit just inside the inner ridge of the gate surround.

I think I'll take a cue from @trailtailor and opt out of the door stop welding I was planning.
I can bolt door stops to the back when I bolt the plates to the gate. I figure there will be a gap from the sheet metal sandwich that will be perfect for some felt or rubber padding on the stop material.

I'm in the middle of installing central remote locking so there won't be any progress until Sunday at the earliest. Still a lot of processing to do-
smooth the edges
mark, drill, countersink holes
cut handles openings
paint 'em up
source hardware
make the door stop plates

AND finally @trailtailor is right. These could be thinner material. I bought 10ga sheet but they could be 12 or 13 and still be plenty sturdy. I'm going to finish these up and run them for now. I think I'll have another rectangle cut from aluminum for the middle plate to save a couple pounds.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom