Rear Heater Core Coolant Leak 1994 Landcruiser (1 Viewer)

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Nov 18, 2014
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So the coolant lines that run to my rear heater core are leaking. They look just like the lines in this post.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/overflow-bottle-always-low.463511/

The only difference is that the line that's leaking for me is 87209B, not 87209C. This is the line that runs up behind the motor above the transmission.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/fzj80-rear-heater-pipe-jpg.498489/

I don't want to bypass the heater in the back I want to fix it.

So here's my question. Has anyone attempted leaving the factory lines in place, and running new lines with Silicone heater hose to solve the problem? What diameter silicone heater hose should I use? I know i'll have to make sure the hose does rub and stays away from the cat/exhaust. I'm thinking that it will be more difficult to remove the old and to just bypass and run two new lines.

Any help is much appreciated. I'm looking for ways to bypass the existing lines and run completely new lines. The whole process of removing the originals looks like the toughest part of the job.
 
Hey JD, I have thought about it. Cut out the old line and just replacing them. Toying with the idea of replacing the hardline by snaking them in one at a time. Good luck. I'll keep an eye on this thread
 
I have a 95 L/C seperated or not, It cant be done In one piece. Even with the head off its still very difficult. Do the work around. Replace hard pipe when you rebuild engine. Rear heater pipes are EASY, the ones on the firewall, I dont have enough bananas for those.
 
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It's not difficult to remove the second section of rear heater pipes located above the cats; IIRC five nuts for the two heat shields and a couple more for the two brackets holding the pipes in place against the underside of the floor pan. You can snake the old pipes out from above the exhaust and cats easily once it's all undone.
 
I cut all the hard lines off at the firewall and ran silicone heater hose (1/2" ID) on the inside of frame rail to the rear heater. Shielded hose clamps on (x2 ea.) all and has been leak free for 3 yrs. I wrapped the silicone hose with header wrap where it is close to the exhaust which goes over the frame rail. I think I posted pics on my exhaust build thread few yrs back.
 
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This has been extremely helpful. Part of the reason why I want to leave the original lines alone is due to the heat shield. I know if I take it off it probably won't go back without me having to put in new bolts. I live in the northeast and everything is completely rusted.

The exhaust wrap is a very good idea. That will cut back the heat and really won't cause any negative impacts.

Thanks for the info, my first attempt will be to run new silicone lines.

Can you get those silicone lines at a Autozone or Napa autoparts store?
 
This has been extremely helpful. Part of the reason why I want to leave the original lines alone is due to the heat shield. I know if I take it off it probably won't go back without me having to put in new bolts. I live in the northeast and everything is completely rusted.

The exhaust wrap is a very good idea. That will cut back the heat and really won't cause any negative impacts.

Thanks for the info, my first attempt will be to run new silicone lines.

Can you get those silicone lines at a Autozone or Napa autoparts store?
I would try Napa, I got mine from a truck parts store when I was in Peekskill NY. You can get the heat shield out and back in... After a broken bolt.. I used PB Buster and heat and all the others came loose just fine.. I picked up my truck from MA... Doesn't get anymore NE than that..LOL.. GL
 
I cut all the hard lines off at the firewall and ran silicone heater hose (1/2" ID) on the inside of frame rail to the rear heater. Shielded hose clamps on (x2 ea.) all and has been leak free for 3 yrs. I wrapped the silicone hose with header wrap where it is close to the exhaust which goes over the frame rail. I think I posted pics on my exhaust build thread few yrs back.
How's your full-length-silicone-hose approach holding up? my lines are leaking. Noticed when I was under there removing rusted out running boards over the weekend. As I recently read from another member: IH8SALT
 
How's your full-length-silicone-hose approach holding up? my lines are leaking. Noticed when I was under there removing rusted out running boards over the weekend. As I recently read from another member: IH8SALT

Doing good. I just did another one
I used gates green stripe. The wall thickness is very thick. Can't kink it.
 
So running into the same issue. My rear heater lines are leaking. I crawled and looked under the truck and to my surprise the ones that go over the tranny looked to be good shape. So I am just gonna replace the ones under the cat. Looks pretty straight forward and easy. On another note I was looking into doing the heater bypass, but when I looked at the lines and work and figured it would be easier to just replace those. Makes me wonder if people actually look at there lines or just go straight to the heater bypass.

Another question is has anyone ever had trouble with the rear heater itself leaking. When I turn on the rear heater it smells like antifreeze. Or is that due to the lines leaking.
 
So running into the same issue. My rear heater lines are leaking. I crawled and looked under the truck and to my surprise the ones that go over the tranny looked to be good shape. So I am just gonna replace the ones under the cat. Looks pretty straight forward and easy. On another note I was looking into doing the heater bypass, but when I looked at the lines and work and figured it would be easier to just replace those. Makes me wonder if people actually look at there lines or just go straight to the heater bypass.

Another question is has anyone ever had trouble with the rear heater itself leaking. When I turn on the rear heater it smells like antifreeze. Or is that due to the lines leaking.
I’ve heard they leak internally as well.
 

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