Coolant leak on the passenger side? Any ideas (4 Viewers)

[tromz]

I just cleaned off my glasses, no improvement.

OK, so you disconnected the rear heater and left some of the pipes and hoses in place.

The worm screw clamps IME are quick and easy but they just don't work all that well with wide swings of weather temps. Cheaper bulk heater hose also just doesn't last as long IME compared to Gates Green Stripe. (So I don't sound like a clamp snob, my daily driver 80 has the worm screw clamps in a few places)

Either way, glad you figured it out.

well the old hose and worm clamps made it 10 years or more . I choose to just carry extra hose and clamps . lol Prob gonna look into those clamps
Yes you disconnect the rear heat pipes and bypass them . They run over top the transmission . So unless you have the drivetrain out no real need to remove them . Toyota does make the appropriate bent hoses for that job. As not all units had rear heat. Someone on here I'm sure could come up with p/n . It honestly reduces failure points in the coolant system. as there are a lot of short hoses for the rear heat. I also shedded some wait by taking out the motor under the passenger seat when I had the interior out . You will have to come up with a solution to cover the giant hole left behind.
heres a color diagram

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/b1d37aa6-8afe-46cb-9048-3c1b63260ae8-jpeg.2068883/

 

[Kernal]

Agree sometimes quick is better than perfect but FWIW that is a job (replacing all heater hoses) I didn't want to do again for 30 years so put some extra time into it. Either way works.

Been discussed before, a few options to seal the oval hole in the floor when the rear heater blower motor assembly is removed;
heavy duty HVAC aluminum tape, or a piece of sound dampening material (Dynamat, Hushmat etc), from above and below. On my other 80 I used Hushmat designed for hoods, it has a bit thicker aluminum layer with the sticky butyl rubber.

Glad you got the leak sorted out.

 

[tromz]

Agree sometimes quick is better than perfect but FWIW that is a job (replacing all heater hoses) I didn't want to do again for 30 years so put some extra time into it. Either way works.

Been discussed before, a few options to seal the oval hole in the floor when the rear heater blower motor assembly is removed;
heavy duty HVAC aluminum tape, or a piece of sound dampening material (Dynamat, Hushmat etc), from above and below. On my other 80 I used Hushmat designed for hoods, it has a bit thicker aluminum layer with the sticky butyl rubber.

Glad you got the leak sorted out.

I had mine welded over with new metal . yea thanks that leak was deceptive