Coolant leak on the passenger side? Any ideas (1 Viewer)

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avon,nc/courtland,va
After years of smiles per gallon I found a puddle on the ground after a good 24 hours of sub freezing temps. I had driven her short distance that day . Fluids look fine. Carpet is dry as is the floor underneath. There was coolant all over the y pipes and nearby surfaces. Rinse run and cant seem to lock it down as to the source . No pressurized spray that i see. Head looks dry. No leaks up front and the rear heat is deleted. Im at work today gonna dive in tomorrow and look better. Any suggestions as to possibilities would be helpful
Thanks
Tromz
 
What kind of clamps did you use when you did the rear heater delete? I replaced rubber coolant hoses and used good quality worm clamps. They leaked when it got cold no matter how much I tightened them. The worst leak was passenger side firewall hoses. I replaced with Toyota constant torque clamps and no leaks n several months even in this weeks single digit temps.
 
What kind of clamps did you use when you did the rear heater delete? I replaced rubber coolant hoses and used good quality worm clamps. They leaked when it got cold no matter how much I tightened them. The worst leak was passenger side firewall hoses. I replaced with Toyota constant torque clamps and no leaks n several months even in this weeks single digit temps.
just the standard. napa ones . Kinda what i was thinking was due to abnormal cold. So like the one kinda behind the deleted t branch? I looked all over with a bright flashlight and saw no evidence up that high. But she definitely leaked a couple ounces or more. I'm more aggrevated than worried as I just did fan clutch radiator and removed the metal pipes off the tranny cooler through the frame. That was my last leak i had. Hydraulic hose if ya ever need to delete. Factory is nla on those. I did use factory clamps on all that stuff brand new
 
After years of smiles per gallon I found a puddle on the ground after a good 24 hours of sub freezing temps. I had driven her short distance that day . Fluids look fine. Carpet is dry as is the floor underneath. There was coolant all over the y pipes and nearby surfaces. Rinse run and cant seem to lock it down as to the source . No pressurized spray that i see. Head looks dry. No leaks up front and the rear heat is deleted. Im at work today gonna dive in tomorrow and look better. Any suggestions as to possibilities would be helpful
Thanks
Tromz
It took me about 18 months to find a leak at the metal bypass pipe above the thermostat.

Heat and air of driving would evaporate any coolant quickly.

I could not find any other leaks and was looking for the red dry residue but it wouldn't show up . One day I stopped for fuel not long after start-up and I opened the hood and saw a wet area around the bottom of that pipe. I had never changed the o-rings in over 100K, so it was time. Took care of the leak until that extra pressure was enough to show me where the radiator leaks now.....
 
It took me about 18 months to find a leak at the metal bypass pipe above the thermostat.

Heat and air of driving would evaporate any coolant quickly.

I could not find any other leaks and was looking for the red dry residue but it wouldn't show up . One day I stopped for fuel not long after start-up and I opened the hood and saw a wet area around the bottom of that pipe. I had never changed the o-rings in over 100K, so it was time. Took care of the leak until that extra pressure was enough to show me where the radiator leaks now.....
Yep that’s how I found the tranny cooler leak by the headlights. Rust hole in the hard piping
 
just the standard. napa ones . Kinda what i was thinking was due to abnormal cold. So like the one kinda behind the deleted t branch? I looked all over with a bright flashlight and saw no evidence up that high. But she definitely leaked a couple ounces or more. I'm more aggrevated than worried as I just did fan clutch radiator and removed the metal pipes off the tranny cooler through the frame. That was my last leak i had. Hydraulic hose if ya ever need to delete. Factory is nla on those. I did use factory clamps on all that stuff brand new
Mine was leaking from the hoses around the heater t.
 
Got photos of the water heater circuit (hoses and pipes) right side of the engine and firewall? Any rusty pipes, crusty hoses?

FWIW:

Gates PowerGrip SB Clamps were designed to prevent cold leaks originally for OEM large truck manufacturers but Gates also makes select sizes for the aftermarket.


Most of the coolant/heating system clamps in my 97 model have been replaced (when I replaced all the hoses) with these heat shrink "clamps" and not one drop of leakage/seepage since. In a few locations, where I might need to access that area more frequently, I used OEM Toyota clamps.

Heat control valve heater hose modification.png
 
its leaking down low somewhere but rear heat is bypassed as in your photos above. And all the motor blower is gone . Its been crazy cold and ive been on shift. Will dive into it asap as I do drive it . Thats super clean btw
 
Got photos of the water heater circuit (hoses and pipes) right side of the engine and firewall? Any rusty pipes, crusty hoses?

FWIW:

Gates PowerGrip SB Clamps were designed to prevent cold leaks originally for OEM large truck manufacturers but Gates also makes select sizes for the aftermarket.


Most of the coolant/heating system clamps in my 97 model have been replaced (when I replaced all the hoses) with these heat shrink "clamps" and not one drop of leakage/seepage since. In a few locations, where I might need to access that area more frequently, I used OEM Toyota clamps.

View attachment 3538017
yep leak was against the firewall slow drip Got bigger w warmer temps. Is there a pipe through the firewall or just hose? doesnt look like i changed that little piece years ago
 
Got photos of the water heater circuit (hoses and pipes) right side of the engine and firewall? Any rusty pipes, crusty hoses?

FWIW:

Gates PowerGrip SB Clamps were designed to prevent cold leaks originally for OEM large truck manufacturers but Gates also makes select sizes for the aftermarket.


Most of the coolant/heating system clamps in my 97 model have been replaced (when I replaced all the hoses) with these heat shrink "clamps" and not one drop of leakage/seepage since. In a few locations, where I might need to access that area more frequently, I used OEM Toyota clamps.

View attachment 3538017
ok new 5/8 piece of hose into the firewall . It does not appear to have another leak . I hosed it down drove it around burped the system. Oddly didnt loose a lot of coolant.. Parked over a dry spot in the driveway Will inspect further tomorrow after it warms back above freezing. Thanks Kernal
 
ok new 5/8 piece of hose into the firewall . It does not appear to have another leak . I hosed it down drove it around burped the system. Oddly didnt loose a lot of coolant.. Parked over a dry spot in the driveway Will inspect further tomorrow after it warms back above freezing. Thanks Kernal
Hey btw are the 200s usually simple fixes? Brainstorming buying a second Land Cruiser that I would take on longer trips One not so old and tired. Plus i like the creature comforts
 
Was it the top hose coming off the T pipe that you replaced? IIRC the original hose (formed) had a slight angle/bend to it.

FZJ80 right firewall water heater hoses.jpg
 
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Was it the top hose coming off the T pipe that you replaced? IIRC the original hose (formed) had a slight angle/bend to it.

View attachment 3539631
my rear heat is deleted. I do believe it is the same . It was dripping landing on the heat shield and drive shaft making a mess. Originally so minute I couldnt find it . The little piece of hose was compromised just enough to seep by the clamp. I had put a junction there. No clue if it was original bit of hose. Been years since I had done all that. Its like one of the first things I would do on and 80 series. Take 15 hoses down to 3. Then the unlocked low range mods
 
The top hose in the photo closest to the firewall is for the main/front heater core, is that the one you replaced? The bottom almost 90 degree formed hose is for the rear heater so it would be missing if you removed the rear heat.

Would help if you posted up photos of what you found and what you got now.
 
IMG_5455.jpeg
IMG_5455.jpeg
 
Sooo right against the firewall. That clamp was leaking dripping onto the ac line running over to the exhaust heat shield. You can see the hose bulging in the photo
 
Here’s some photos. Mr T actually makes the cut & bent to fit hoses for the 80 without rear heat. That would take you to 2 hoses. I maintained the 90 degree pipe n used Napa or some other low budget hoses
IMG_5460.jpeg
IMG_5459.jpeg
IMG_5457.jpeg
IMG_5457.jpeg
 
Here’s some photos. Mr T actually makes the cut & bent to fit hoses for the 80 without rear heat. That would take you to 2 hoses. I maintained the 90 degree pipe n used Napa or some other low budget hoses
View attachment 3539881View attachment 3539880View attachment 3539879View attachment 3539879
Apparently, I need to be drinking more so I can focus better on those pics.

You're talking about hoses bulging and where they are. To me it's like driving around without my glasses......
 
I just cleaned off my glasses, no improvement. ;)

OK, so you disconnected the rear heater and left some of the pipes and hoses in place.

The worm screw clamps IME are quick and easy but they just don't work all that well with wide swings of weather temps. Cheaper bulk heater hose also just doesn't last as long IME compared to Gates Green Stripe. (So I don't sound like a clamp snob, my daily driver 80 has the worm screw clamps in a few places)

Either way, glad you figured it out.
 

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