REAR HATCH / DOOR LOCK Question - 1997 FzJ80 (1 Viewer)

[DirtyPepper]

Ok, I've spent a huge amount of time going through and searching threads on the back hatch and I can't find anything...so, I come to the group on this.

When purchased in 2016 the rig came with ONE key for the ignition...I had two back-up keys made and went about my business. Verified the original and spares all fit the front doors and started the rig. I later found out, by accident, the flip lever over the rear hatch keyhole...so, I grabbed a key and tried...no go. Tried a spare...no go. It wasn't a huge deal because she wasn't (and still isn't) a daily driver and I'm mostly OK with unlocking via the electronic switches.

BUT...and here's my question...is there a second key for the rear hatch? I've been out and about with her more and more since baselining and being able to unlock the rear hatch with the key would be great.

The key goes in but I have ZERO turn ability. As in, the more I turn, the more I'm worried about turning the metal of the key. The lock is that "frozen"

Yes, I've used WD40. I've used Napa Silicone spray lubricant; I've drowned the stuff into the keyhole and let it set for 24 hours, did it again, let it set, and still no turn. The key goes in without resistance.

I know it's a longshot, and logically, if there's a second key I'm probably SOL and will have to have it keyed...I just thought I'd ask. Maybe I'm missing something or maybe I just need to take the entire mechanism apart...?



Thanks in advance.

 

[Malleus]

The master key and spare should fit all the lock cylinders. The valet key fits the doors, but not the glovebox. You'd have to remove both the rear door lock cylinder and one of the door cylinders and compare the numbers on them.

The lock cylinders can be rekeyed by any locksmith so your other keys will work. They need both lock cylinders, though. That is, the one you want to have rekeyed and the one you're trying to match it to.

 

[DirtyPepper]

The master key and spare should fit all the lock cylinders. The valet key fits the doors, but not the glovebox. You'd have to remove both the rear door lock cylinder and one of the door cylinders and compare the numbers on them.

The lock cylinders can be rekeyed by any locksmith so your other keys will work. They need both lock cylinders, though. That is, the one you want to have rekeyed and the one you're trying to match it to.

Ok, thanks for the insight.

I only have the one key that came with the rig when I purchased it...and that bent a long time ago after use. Thankfully, I had spares made prior.

So, if I want to rekey it, a locksmith can handle it and key it to the doors via the key...or they MUST have both cylinders?

Am I understanding this correctly? So I would need to remove a door cylinder and the rear hatch?


Thanks,

 

[Malleus]

OK, a locksmith can cut a key to match another key, but it's a copy of a copy. Even "original" keys are copies - of the master that is used to cut them. If you want quality key, you have to have them cut using the key code - that's the master template setting that creates the key profile.

So, if you have a cylinder rekeyed to fit a key, it's only as good as the key that was used to rekey it. If you've had copies of keys made, you shouldn't use them to have lock cylinders rekeyed.

The most reliable course of action is to take both the lock cylinder that you want to match AND the lock cylinder that doesn't work to a locksmith and have him both rekey the second lock cylinder to match the first AND cut new keys from the code on the first lock cylinder. A Toyota dealer can cut new keys IF they have the lock cylinder number, AND IF they haven't thrown out the old key machine. They cannot rekey a lock cylinder; well, they can, but they won't.

FWIW, you can rekey the lock cylinder yourself, if you have a little patience, a smartphone with a camera app (so you don't forget how it came apart) and a magnifying lens (that part is optional, but very helpful).

Oh, and once you've removed the lock cylinder, write the number down (in the manual if you still have it, there's a place for it in the front), so you don't have to go through this again.

 

[Malleus]

How to rekey a Toyota lock, or what's inside my lock cylinder?

 

[Delta VS]

The ignition cylinder can’t be rekeyed without destructive disassembly, not sure if there was a Toyota tool for that or what, but not recommended. The passenger front door lock cylinder will have the key code on it. You can have a new key cut from that (unless the driver/ign cylinders were changed at some point). The driver/passenger/ignition are all available separately, the glovebox and rear hatch are NLA. Might get lucky with a NOS set on eBay. We sell rekeyed kits and offer quick turnaround on rekeying glovebox and hatch locks to match, if you can’t find someone locally.

 

[JoeCova]

The ignition cylinder can’t be rekeyed without destructive disassembly, not sure if there was a Toyota tool for that or what, but not recommended. The passenger front door lock cylinder will have the key code on it. You can have a new key cut from that (unless the driver/ign cylinders were changed at some point). The driver/passenger/ignition are all available separately, the glovebox and rear hatch are NLA. Might get lucky with a NOS set on eBay. We sell rekeyed kits and offer quick turnaround on rekeying glovebox and hatch locks to match, if you can’t find someone locally.

Wouldnt that require you to answer emails?

 

[JoeCova]

Ok, I've spent a huge amount of time going through and searching threads on the back hatch and I can't find anything...so, I come to the group on this.

When purchased in 2016 the rig came with ONE key for the ignition...I had two back-up keys made and went about my business. Verified the original and spares all fit the front doors and started the rig. I later found out, by accident, the flip lever over the rear hatch keyhole...so, I grabbed a key and tried...no go. Tried a spare...no go. It wasn't a huge deal because she wasn't (and still isn't) a daily driver and I'm mostly OK with unlocking via the electronic switches.

BUT...and here's my question...is there a second key for the rear hatch? I've been out and about with her more and more since baselining and being able to unlock the rear hatch with the key would be great.

The key goes in but I have ZERO turn ability. As in, the more I turn, the more I'm worried about turning the metal of the key. The lock is that "frozen"

Yes, I've used WD40. I've used Napa Silicone spray lubricant; I've drowned the stuff into the keyhole and let it set for 24 hours, did it again, let it set, and still no turn. The key goes in without resistance.

I know it's a longshot, and logically, if there's a second key I'm probably SOL and will have to have it keyed...I just thought I'd ask. Maybe I'm missing something or maybe I just need to take the entire mechanism apart...?



Thanks in advance.

I have what I believe are 4 original keys, 2 normal and 2 valet and all of them work on the external locks and ignition to include the hatch, the exception being the valet keys on the glove box. The valet keys have a small tooth in the front that the normal keys do not.

It seems unlikely that a different cylinder was installed with a seperate key but you never know. I will say that I do have to jiggle the lock a bit on the hatch to get it to turn otherwise it seems like the key wont work. That said I maybe lock/unlock the hatch from the rear 1% of the time.

I would def remove it and have a deeper look.

 

[Delta VS]

Wouldnt that require you to answer emails?

Nah, just require buying on the site

 

[Malleus]

The ignition cylinder can’t be rekeyed without destructive disassembly, not sure if there was a Toyota tool for that or what, but not recommended. The passenger front door lock cylinder will have the key code on it. You can have a new key cut from that (unless the driver/ign cylinders were changed at some point). The driver/passenger/ignition are all available separately, the glovebox and rear hatch are NLA. Might get lucky with a NOS set on eBay. We sell rekeyed kits and offer quick turnaround on rekeying glovebox and hatch locks to match, if you can’t find someone locally.

Why the comment on rekeying the ignition? The problem is the rear lock.

 

[Delta VS]

Why the comment on rekeying the ignition? The problem is the rear lock.

To explain the entire situation. Seems like a reasonable thing to understand, ya?

 

[Malleus]

More information is always better

 

[western flyer]

I had a newly cut key not work in the rear hatch lock unless it was extremely wiggled, until the key was a bit worn down. Even now it sometimes needs wiggling to function in the hatch. Extra lubrication in the cylinder was helpful.

 

[Delta VS]

I had a newly cut key not work in the rear hatch lock unless it was extremely wiggled, until the key was a bit worn down. Even now it sometimes needs wiggling to function in the hatch. Extra lubrication in the cylinder was helpful.

When it does turn, does it turn freely? Only ask because have received some rear hatch locks for rekeying that were COMPLETELY gummed up. Might be worth removing (pretty quick to remove) to see if dropping in a sonic bath would break some of the stuff up.

 

[jht3]

you said you had some new or backup keys made. how? to me the ONLY way to do this is via the code written in your owners manual or found on the front passenger cylinder itself.

when i bought my truck, it came w/ two keys. they only worked the drivers door and ignition. passenger lock, glovebox, and rear hatch i could slip the key in but not turn w/o fear of snapping the keys. thought someone had replaced a cylinder or two along the way.

had new keys cut (master and valet) and the passenger door and glovebox now worked the way they should, but rear hatch still didn't work. i think my original keys might have all been valet versions or just really worn out or copies of copies, etc.

WD-40 and graphite lube freed up the cylinder and the internal parts. took a couple rounds. but i was able to do this w/o removing it completely but that was my next plan.

i think many owners along the way don't realize there is a cylinder behind the hatch flap and due to decades of neglect, they get gummed up and frozen. keep at it.

 

[western flyer]

When it does turn, does it turn freely? Only ask because have received some rear hatch locks for rekeying that were COMPLETELY gummed up. Might be worth removing (pretty quick to remove) to see if dropping in a sonic bath would break some of the stuff up.

I likely understand what you are saying, per some hobby lock-picking experience. On my 80 the R hatch lock does turn quite freely when it does turn with the key. It does not feel gummed up (I have used WD-40 in the key slots annually over the last decade or so to keep them from being gummed up). Instead it (now, when it occasionally does not turn initially) feels like the tumblers don't quite fit the key as cut (dealer cut key from VIN), but once the lock begins to turn it feels free and "normal."

Excellent advice to clean the lock cylinder mech. Cheers.

 

[DirtyPepper]

When it does turn, does it turn freely? Only ask because have received some rear hatch locks for rekeying that were COMPLETELY gummed up. Might be worth removing (pretty quick to remove) to see if dropping in a sonic bath would break some of the stuff up.

When it does turn, does it turn freely? Only ask because have received some rear hatch locks for rekeying that were COMPLETELY gummed up. Might be worth removing (pretty quick to remove) to see if dropping in a sonic bath would break some of the stuff up.

I made a quick video.

Yes, I’ve shot the lock with WD40 and silicone lubricant

 

[CharlieS]

A (maybe last ditch) option is to swap the locks out. I recently did this and it was pretty easy. I got a kit from Toyota that had the ignition, both doors, hatch lock, multiple keys, a credit card key, and a wheel lug lock.

Also, and I know this is hotly debated, but I've been told WD40 isn't a lubricant. It is a water displacer.

 

[jht3]

Also, and I know this is hotly debated, but I've been told WD40 isn't a lubricant. It is a water displacer.

correct. but WD-40 does a good job breaking down old lube and crud. i followed up w/ graphite spray meant for locks.

 

[jht3]

I made a quick video.

Yes, I’ve shot the lock with WD40 and silicone lubricant

hard to tell from the vid, but that key looks beat