REAR HATCH / DOOR LOCK Question - 1997 FzJ80 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

hard to tell from the vid, but that key looks beat
It's actually fairly new...about a year.
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
 
It's actually fairly new...about a year.
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
don't think i saw you say, but was it copied from an existing key....like at a local hardware store? or cut from the Toyota key code using the OE machine?

and you are certain it is a Master key? not a Valet?
 
don't think i saw you say, but was it copied from an existing key....like at a local hardware store? or cut from the Toyota key code using the OE machine?

and you are certain it is a Master key? not a Valet?
When I bought the cruiser, it came with one key...the end of it had black plastic. I immediately got two copies.

Sometime later, the key that came with it bent in the door cylinder. I then started using one of the key I had made from a local hardware store.
That bent...I then took the OTHER spare, had two more copies made, verified they worked ion the doors and ignition, and went on my way.

So no...none of the keys are Dealer/OEM...just copies.
 
gotcha. then i'm inclined to place the blame on old and worn keys.

on the left are new keys cut by the Toyota machine. on the right are the keys that came w/ the truck. both a Master and Valet on each set. notice how much sharper the edges are on the new keys.
PXL_20230622_205325773.jpg


the right set operate the door and ignition locks OK, but usually requires a little finese or multple attempts to get the pins to fall just right and turn the cylinders. and the master will not lock the glove box no matter what.

the left set works 100%, with no jiggling or multiple attempts to lock/unlock. money well spent.

doesn't rule out your hatch cylinder from needing a deep clean, but at least you'll eliminate the keys from the equation.
 
gotcha. then i'm inclined to place the blame on old and worn keys.

on the left are new keys cut by the Toyota machine. on the right are the keys that came w/ the truck. both a Master and Valet on each set. notice how much sharper the edges are on the new keys.
View attachment 3355654

the right set operate the door and ignition locks OK, but usually requires a little finese or multple attempts to get the pins to fall just right and turn the cylinders. and the master will not lock the glove box no matter what.

the left set works 100%, with no jiggling or multiple attempts to lock/unlock. money well spent.

doesn't rule out your hatch cylinder from needing a deep clean, but at least you'll eliminate the keys from the equation.

Awesome, thanks!

Ultimately, i'll probably pick up a full set of new OEM keys and cylinders that was noted above. I'm going to try and give the rear hatch a deep clean, but it'll all be a lower priority.

I appreciate you (and others on this thread) doing a lot of legwork and giving advice/insight 👍

Oh, and as a note...above I mentioned the key that came with the Cruiser had black plastic...yes, but not the OEM "Toyota" engraved black plastic. I think it was also just a copy.
 
Awesome, thanks!

Ultimately, i'll probably pick up a full set of new OEM keys and cylinders that was noted above. I'm going to try and give the rear hatch a deep clean, but it'll all be a lower priority.

I appreciate you (and others on this thread) doing a lot of legwork and giving advice/insight 👍

Oh, and as a note...above I mentioned the key that came with the Cruiser had black plastic...yes, but not the OEM "Toyota" engraved black plastic. I think it was also just a copy.
got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!
 
got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!
Oh, man! That’s awesome! I’d love to chat with him, if possible…?

I love this community.
 
It's actually fairly new...about a year.
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!



NEVER EVER put graphite powder in any toyota lock ,

WD-40 clean out procedeure is your best friend !

also Keeping ALL your keys SHARP and true

DITCH old worn ones , they will HURT yourf land cruisers internals ....

- im a MD and PA Licenced Vehicals ONLY lock smith and a TOYOTA Lock and KEY Tecniction as well


- @Delta VS speaks the Truth on -rekeying the ignition on ANY series is a very very shifty task to get right last resort , for sur

- ALL FJ80 and FZJ80 HDJ and HZJ have factory Key codes stamped on the passenger side door LHD / RHD respectfully

- it will be a W -1234 and four digits ...


- take photos and dont put it back together quickl , the codes were hand stampd and hard to decipher some times ....


Please ! :)


here are ALL the OEM key blanks i offer up , including my FULL ON period correct 90999-00164 toyota shafted everyone many years ago , its a very very good reproduction !


oh !

to pay homige to the fellow member whom created the ORIGINAL KEY tech thread i pay my respects accordingy , with out him ?


90999-001
64
would never had lived once again , and that is not a joke SERIOUS !




90999-00164  90999-00164 - Copy - Copy.jpeg


.
1687767858125.png




39E8FD60-D85D-43E6-9EB6-91CAB0CD0768_1_201_a (1).jpeg





l.
5678 - Copy - Copy.jpg




69057-60030 1.jpg
90999-00104.jpeg
FU03795.jpg
 
I made a quick video.

Yes, I’ve shot the lock with WD40 and silicone lubricant 👍




is this the KEY that u have that will NOT work in the back hatch ?


semi circle head ?



1687768521704.png
 
Ok, I've spent a huge amount of time going through and searching threads on the back hatch and I can't find anything...so, I come to the group on this.

When purchased in 2016 the rig came with ONE key for the ignition...I had two back-up keys made and went about my business. Verified the original and spares all fit the front doors and started the rig. I later found out, by accident, the flip lever over the rear hatch keyhole...so, I grabbed a key and tried...no go. Tried a spare...no go. It wasn't a huge deal because she wasn't (and still isn't) a daily driver and I'm mostly OK with unlocking via the electronic switches.

BUT...and here's my question...is there a second key for the rear hatch? I've been out and about with her more and more since baselining and being able to unlock the rear hatch with the key would be great.

The key goes in but I have ZERO turn ability. As in, the more I turn, the more I'm worried about turning the metal of the key. The lock is that "frozen"

Yes, I've used WD40. I've used Napa Silicone spray lubricant; I've drowned the stuff into the keyhole and let it set for 24 hours, did it again, let it set, and still no turn. The key goes in without resistance.

I know it's a longshot, and logically, if there's a second key I'm probably SOL and will have to have it keyed...I just thought I'd ask. Maybe I'm missing something or maybe I just need to take the entire mechanism apart...?



Thanks in advance.
I had 1 key when I bought my 80 so I went to local dealer and got the master key code ($15), took that to a local locksmith and for $50 had 6 keys made; they work all doors better than my 2021 Subaru. Local dealer wanted $80 for 1 key with 2 month wait.
My rear hatch locks and unlocks opposite from the drivers door, seems odd to me but it works.
 
I had 1 key when I bought my 80 so I went to local dealer and got the master key code ($15), took that to a local locksmith and for $50 had 6 keys made; they work all doors better than my 2021 Subaru. Local dealer wanted $80 for 1 key with 2 month wait.
My rear hatch locks and unlocks opposite from the drivers door, seems odd to me but it works.


if you don't mind me asking how long ago was this ?

- the USA and CANADA dealer charter agreement says key code look up is always free to the verified toyota owner of vehical .......

- unless that has changed very recently ?
 
is this the KEY that u have that will NOT work in the back hatch ?


semi circle head ?



View attachment 3358210
That style, yes, but it's from Ace hardware as a copy of the key I was given, whihc was also a copy, I think.

Mine is similar to this but without TOYOTA stamped on it.
 
My DD keys wore down to the point where they would no longer open the doors reliably, so I had a new one cut from the VIN at the dealership. I'm shocked at how smoothly all the locks work now! My old key is almost unrecognizable next to the new one, it was a worn copy of a worn copy, and that one was probably a worn copy of a worn original. Can't believe the locks were working at all with those keys. I'm waiting on a new blank from Matt so I can get some more copies of the new key made. Once that gets here I'll take the new repro key and my NOS key blank to a good locksmith to get them cut. Looking forward to having good keys again!
 
My DD keys wore down to the point where they would no longer open the doors reliably, so I had a new one cut from the VIN at the dealership. I'm shocked at how smoothly all the locks work now! My old key is almost unrecognizable next to the new one, it was a worn copy of a worn copy, and that one was probably a worn copy of a worn original. Can't believe the locks were working at all with those keys. I'm waiting on a new blank from Matt so I can get some more copies of the new key made. Once that gets here I'll take the new repro key and my NOS key blank to a good locksmith to get them cut. Looking forward to having good keys again!
So, would it be better to have the dealer cut new keys or replace the cylinder and have those keys cut to the new cylinders?
 
No idea about doing new cylinders, I just took my registration and some hardware store key blanks(to keep my good ones from being cut wrong) to the dealership and they cut me a new key in about 45 minutes. I brought the truck so I could try the keys because of issues some folks have posted up here and I was glad I did- the first key didn't work. The second try was a winner though! And I still have the good blank to get a nice new key made. Because I brought my own blanks and because they messed up the first key they only charged me half price which was pretty decent of them I thought. About $18 with the tax. I thought I might have to replace the cylinders when my locks started acting up but it was just the keys being so worn down.
 
.

Fact : any local hardware store key 🔑 blank is a China 🇨🇳 Chairman Moe cheap yellow brass silver zinc plated


Fact : the below OEM keys are SOLlD Nickel


Not plated in any way

Those are the facts …

Anyone know why the PHAT head is on the one key for ?


Shhhhhh…..!

If you do know …


8D1A4B74-3C3C-4366-B4BF-F9905FD2B9AE.jpeg
33F797DF-80F5-4394-804E-F0B059C5D6C7.jpeg
11AC857A-55D3-41C1-9F6E-388D94333B2E.jpeg


5D031173-9497-4C34-9786-2986EF137203.jpeg
 
KOOL FACT :

i Plated in Gold Zinc the worlds First Gold Plated 91-97 80 Series Anything Key Blank

i code cut it for another member as a xmass gift

he will turn up here sooner or later :)


,


i like GOLD Plated TOYOTA OEM Keys , like lucky WONKA Golden Ticket !






EDC8D7D5-0AF3-4C3B-8C21-5D45C3CA704C.jpeg
F4EDFCE4-D418-4542-B62F-F267F469C65E.jpeg
gold key 2.jpeg
gold key 11.jpeg
gold key 12.jpeg
gold keys 1.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom