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It's actually fairly new...about a year.hard to tell from the vid, but that key looks beat
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
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It's actually fairly new...about a year.hard to tell from the vid, but that key looks beat
don't think i saw you say, but was it copied from an existing key....like at a local hardware store? or cut from the Toyota key code using the OE machine?It's actually fairly new...about a year.
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
When I bought the cruiser, it came with one key...the end of it had black plastic. I immediately got two copies.don't think i saw you say, but was it copied from an existing key....like at a local hardware store? or cut from the Toyota key code using the OE machine?
and you are certain it is a Master key? not a Valet?
gotcha. then i'm inclined to place the blame on old and worn keys.
on the left are new keys cut by the Toyota machine. on the right are the keys that came w/ the truck. both a Master and Valet on each set. notice how much sharper the edges are on the new keys.
View attachment 3355654
the right set operate the door and ignition locks OK, but usually requires a little finese or multple attempts to get the pins to fall just right and turn the cylinders. and the master will not lock the glove box no matter what.
the left set works 100%, with no jiggling or multiple attempts to lock/unlock. money well spent.
doesn't rule out your hatch cylinder from needing a deep clean, but at least you'll eliminate the keys from the equation.
got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!Awesome, thanks!
Ultimately, i'll probably pick up a full set of new OEM keys and cylinders that was noted above. I'm going to try and give the rear hatch a deep clean, but it'll all be a lower priority.
I appreciate you (and others on this thread) doing a lot of legwork and giving advice/insight
Oh, and as a note...above I mentioned the key that came with the Cruiser had black plastic...yes, but not the OEM "Toyota" engraved black plastic. I think it was also just a copy.
Oh, man! That’s awesome! I’d love to chat with him, if possible…?got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!
@ToyotaMatt probably?Oh, man! That’s awesome! I’d love to chat with him, if possible…?
I love this community.
It's actually fairly new...about a year.
For context, I've put less than 5k miles on my Cruiser in that time.
@ToyotaMatt probably?
got my set of keys from a Mud member, who has the machinery and blanks to do it as good as or better than the dealer. thanks matt!
I made a quick video.
Yes, I’ve shot the lock with WD40 and silicone lubricant
I had 1 key when I bought my 80 so I went to local dealer and got the master key code ($15), took that to a local locksmith and for $50 had 6 keys made; they work all doors better than my 2021 Subaru. Local dealer wanted $80 for 1 key with 2 month wait.Ok, I've spent a huge amount of time going through and searching threads on the back hatch and I can't find anything...so, I come to the group on this.
When purchased in 2016 the rig came with ONE key for the ignition...I had two back-up keys made and went about my business. Verified the original and spares all fit the front doors and started the rig. I later found out, by accident, the flip lever over the rear hatch keyhole...so, I grabbed a key and tried...no go. Tried a spare...no go. It wasn't a huge deal because she wasn't (and still isn't) a daily driver and I'm mostly OK with unlocking via the electronic switches.
BUT...and here's my question...is there a second key for the rear hatch? I've been out and about with her more and more since baselining and being able to unlock the rear hatch with the key would be great.
The key goes in but I have ZERO turn ability. As in, the more I turn, the more I'm worried about turning the metal of the key. The lock is that "frozen"
Yes, I've used WD40. I've used Napa Silicone spray lubricant; I've drowned the stuff into the keyhole and let it set for 24 hours, did it again, let it set, and still no turn. The key goes in without resistance.
I know it's a longshot, and logically, if there's a second key I'm probably SOL and will have to have it keyed...I just thought I'd ask. Maybe I'm missing something or maybe I just need to take the entire mechanism apart...?
Thanks in advance.
I had 1 key when I bought my 80 so I went to local dealer and got the master key code ($15), took that to a local locksmith and for $50 had 6 keys made; they work all doors better than my 2021 Subaru. Local dealer wanted $80 for 1 key with 2 month wait.
My rear hatch locks and unlocks opposite from the drivers door, seems odd to me but it works.
That style, yes, but it's from Ace hardware as a copy of the key I was given, whihc was also a copy, I think.is this the KEY that u have that will NOT work in the back hatch ?
semi circle head ?
View attachment 3358210
So, would it be better to have the dealer cut new keys or replace the cylinder and have those keys cut to the new cylinders?My DD keys wore down to the point where they would no longer open the doors reliably, so I had a new one cut from the VIN at the dealership. I'm shocked at how smoothly all the locks work now! My old key is almost unrecognizable next to the new one, it was a worn copy of a worn copy, and that one was probably a worn copy of a worn original. Can't believe the locks were working at all with those keys. I'm waiting on a new blank from Matt so I can get some more copies of the new key made. Once that gets here I'll take the new repro key and my NOS key blank to a good locksmith to get them cut. Looking forward to having good keys again!