Rear Disc Brakes... (1 Viewer)

[65swb45]

Thanks for that part number. Huge help!
As far as the 1/8NPT, that was the size tap that fit the female end.

Ah, that makes more sense Alex. The npt tap looks and runs similar to the 10mmx1.0 thread on our brake line and fuel line components. It's allowed me to 'save ' more than one carburetor air horn where a PO has been over-zealous about reinstalling the inlet fitting.

 

[srgould41]

I used Raybestos BH381115. Works with the normal banjo bolts.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

I used Raybestos BH381115. Works with the normal banjo bolts.

So I got around to installing this hose and it doesn't work. It leaks around the banjo bolt. The banjo end is a slightly different shape than the original. This one is more squared off and the original one is completely round. This one is slightly too short also.

Any thoughts? @Poser?

Original

New one

 

[Cdaniel]

Dumb question: Did you use copper sealing washers?

So I got around to installing this hose and it doesn't work. It leaks around the banjo bolt. The banjo end is a slightly different shape than the original. This one is more squared off and the original one is completely round. This one is slightly too short also.

Any thoughts? @Poser?

Original
View attachment 1283897


New one

View attachment 1283903

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Dumb question: Did you use copper sealing washers?

Not dumb. No, I didn't.

 

[Cdaniel]

Doh! Could help. Sorry dude. Happens to us all from time to time.

Not dumb. No, I didn't.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Copper sealing washer is required when using a banjo fitting , standard practice . It will also help to space the fitting away from the housing so it can lay flat to the sealing surface .
Sarge

 

[srgould41]

I had to cut the ridge around the port to get my hose to sit flat and line up pointing where I wanted it to. My last set was leaking with new copper washers. I had to slightly loosen them and then twist the banjo fitting back and forth a little to seat the washers.

 

[Downey]

I just found the original Downey drawings for the 1981-newer rear disc brake brackets, Poser gets them if he wants them. I finally sold all of the Downey manufactured rear disc brake brackets, except for one (1) set of brackets for a full floating rear end on a 1980-older FF reared, that "last on earth" set is now in my ebay store.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

I had to cut the ridge around the port to get my hose to sit flat and line up pointing where I wanted it to. My last set was leaking with new copper washers. I had to slightly loosen them and then twist the banjo fitting back and forth a little to seat the washers.

So the copper washer solved the problem. Thanks guys!

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

Just finished my installing my rear brakes, everything went smooth however the pads are really tight on the rotor I mean really tight. Has anyone had a problem with this and how did you guys fix it?

Thanks Josh

 

[grich575]

I just did this swap and I’m absolutely impressed with @Poser and his help. I wish I had done a bit more research a year ago when I rebuilt the drums because the swap was pretty basic and now my 40 finally stops! The swap was actually cheaper and easier than the drum rebuild

I primarily use it for trails and mud and am totally excited to have brakes that can handle it

Thanks again Steve!!!!

 

[archie73]

I just did this swap and I’m absolutely impressed with @Poser and his help. I wish I had done a bit more research a year ago when I rebuilt the drums because the swap was pretty basic and now my 40 finally stops! The swap was actually cheaper and easier than the drum rebuild

I primarily use it for trails and mud and am totally excited to have brakes that can handle it

Thanks again Steve!!!!

I’ve got mine on for couple weeks now. Love it. Same deal on the drums. One side was shot. Easy choice to upgrade.

 

[bikersmurf]

I’ve not had to adjust brakes in 20 years on my 40... it just stops straight and quick. If I was ever bored, I have a long list of things I’d like to do... adjusting brakes has never been on it.

Also, my first set of front drum shoes lasted 2 years and 20k miles... front pads, 20 years and 95k miles. Rear pads have also lasted ridiculously long... I’ve put one set of pads on to rear.

 

[toyvota]

I’m just starting to tackle this job after receiving the parts from Steve about a month or so ago. Issue I’m having is removing the rear axle seals. I’ve tried seal puller, screwdriver/hammer, and all I’m doing is tearing apart the existing seal. Is there a trick or something to getting this off? It seems like there may be a collar of some sort that has to come off, but I’m afraid to start banging at it for fear of screwing up the new seal. I’ve sprayed the hell out of it with PB blaster...but at a loss. Anyone know if this thing that looks like a collar has to come off before I can pull and repack the bearings?

 

[toyvota]

I’m just starting to tackle this job after receiving the parts from Steve about a month or so ago. Issue I’m having is removing the rear axle seals. I’ve tried seal puller, screwdriver/hammer, and all I’m doing is tearing apart the existing seal. Is there a trick or something to getting this off? It seems like there may be a collar of some sort that has to come off, but I’m afraid to start banging at it for fear of screwing up the new seal. I’ve sprayed the hell out of it with PB blaster...but at a loss. Anyone know if this thing that looks like a collar has to come off before I can pull and repack the bearings?

View attachment 2129070

This is what I mean by “collar”. I wonder if it’s just rusted solid from 30+ years of being on the axle or if I’m doing something wrong. Any insight on how to get the rear axle seal off to replace with new axle seal would be greatly appreciated.

 

[grich575]

This is what I mean by “collar”. I wonder if it’s just rusted solid from 30+ years of being on the axle or if I’m doing something wrong. Any insight on how to get the rear axle seal off to replace with new axle seal would be greatly appreciated.

View attachment 2129097

What you are calling the collar is part of the axle housing. The rubber seal is slid inside that “collar” and should be able to be pried out.

Try taking a large pair of channel locks and grab both inside and outside lips of the seal. Pry against the other side of the seal to see if it will release. Make sure you are getting behind the inside seal lip but not scraping the housing. That’s for any tool you are using to pry out the seal

if all else fails... rent a slide bearing puller and remove both the bearing and the seal at the same time. You’ll probably need to buy a new bearing though.

You don’t “pack” your axle bearings. They are lubed with the gear oil.

 

[toyvota]

What you are calling the collar is part of the axle housing. The rubber seal is slid inside that “collar” and should be able to be pried out.

Try taking a large pair of channel locks and grab both inside and outside lips of the seal. Pry against the other side of the seal to see if it will release. Make sure you are getting behind the inside seal lip but not scraping the housing. That’s for any tool you are using to pry out the seal

if all else fails... rent a slide bearing puller and remove both the bearing and the seal at the same time. You’ll probably need to buy a new bearing though.

You don’t “pack” your axle bearings. They are lubed with the gear oil.

Thank you. After some more research I realized I didn’t have to lube the bearing. But will probably go the slide bearing puller route and replace the bearing. I appreciate the help...thanks again

 

[grich575]

Thank you. After some more research I realized I didn’t have to lube the bearing. But will probably go the slide bearing puller route and replace the bearing. I appreciate the help...thanks again

You’re welcome!

you may already be planning to do this but just in case you’re not:

As for the install of the new bearing, cut the cage and pop the rollers out of the old bearing. Cut the carrier (outer race) in one spot with a die grinder and grind/sand any burrs smooth, no burrs is super important. Use this to tap in your new bearing. It will obviously line up perfectly so you won’t damage the new bearing and you will know once the new bearing is seated just by the sound it makes when tapping on it. Plus, the cut race will “bounce” back since the bearing has no more inward movement. After install the cut race slides out nice and easy.

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

Finishing up my resto and my factory wheel studs are very short with this conversion and factory steelies. Anyone switch out wheel studs??