rear brakes over adjusting..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter brian
- Start date
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I took the right side apart and noticed the wheel cylinder was a little sticky. Slides around, but gummy. Compressing it was sticky, too.
So gonna get a couple of new Aisin cylinders tomorrow - might as well, while I'm in there. Don't what to have to take this sh!t apart again... so that's all for today.
I've got a new set of shoes, too, so screw it. Just gonna replace everything - clean and lube everything - reuse the drums (they measure good), but switch left to right...
If it still does it, I'll go ahead and replace the drums. At least I'll be half ruling-out things...
If it still does it after that.... DISC BRAKE SWAP !
So gonna get a couple of new Aisin cylinders tomorrow - might as well, while I'm in there. Don't what to have to take this sh!t apart again... so that's all for today.
I've got a new set of shoes, too, so screw it. Just gonna replace everything - clean and lube everything - reuse the drums (they measure good), but switch left to right...
If it still does it, I'll go ahead and replace the drums. At least I'll be half ruling-out things...
If it still does it after that.... DISC BRAKE SWAP !
1911
chupacabra
Rear disc brake conversion is so worth it - just did my 40 last month when I had to R&R the axle seals anyway, and now it stops way better than I thought this truck ever would. No more pulling to one side, and no more adjusting ever.
Drums are cheap if you don't mind buying Chinese crap. Me, I won't buy Chinese anything for the LC, if I can help it.
So if you want Toyo drums ($140 each) or High-quality Japanese (Ikuta) 'bout $118, it kinda gets up there.
Aisin wheel cylinders are $38 each.
I don't understand how drums could be the issue either, but there's much I don't know about brakes
... So that's why the drums will be the last to go.
I haven't got an answer for the problems you guys are having but i rebuilt my drums over 12 monthe back,aftermarket cylinders,aft drums,and pads,springs and all hardware left original.
Don't discount the drums as useless,if working correctly they are quite good,especially with the auto adjust on the handbrake.
Im happy with mine but as its just come off the road for a overhaul i think i might replace the springs/star wheels etc as well.
Don't discount the drums as useless,if working correctly they are quite good,especially with the auto adjust on the handbrake.
Im happy with mine but as its just come off the road for a overhaul i think i might replace the springs/star wheels etc as well.
Just an update --
I got a little impatient and just decided to throw money at it and replace everything, 'cuz it was driving me nuts and I want to go camping this Month, and don't feel like taking the stuff apart 3 times.
So... New wheel cylinders and drums and hardware. Notice how the aftermarket Aisin brand wheel cylinders not-so-carefully hide the TEQ symbol...
Japanese drums fit perfectly. I painted them with gloss engine enamel.
Will bleed tomorrow and see how it goes.
I got a little impatient and just decided to throw money at it and replace everything, 'cuz it was driving me nuts and I want to go camping this Month, and don't feel like taking the stuff apart 3 times.
So... New wheel cylinders and drums and hardware. Notice how the aftermarket Aisin brand wheel cylinders not-so-carefully hide the TEQ symbol...
Japanese drums fit perfectly. I painted them with gloss engine enamel.
Will bleed tomorrow and see how it goes.
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My old girl who always looks over my shoulder to see if I'm doing it right!
Looking good Spike! Hopefully this will do the trick for you.
Well, I dunno brian... Mine seems to be running alright, now... So I'm back on the road !
If anything, I bet it was the wheel cylinders or hardware... Cylinders on both sides were a bit sticky. Hardware was old.
I took the self-adj mechanisms apart and clean and lubed everything, including the bell-cranks, and adj the cranks per the FSM.
So far so good. Sorry there ain't a definitive fix in this thread.
The Monstrosity, as my wife calls it:
If anything, I bet it was the wheel cylinders or hardware... Cylinders on both sides were a bit sticky. Hardware was old.
I took the self-adj mechanisms apart and clean and lubed everything, including the bell-cranks, and adj the cranks per the FSM.
So far so good. Sorry there ain't a definitive fix in this thread.
The Monstrosity, as my wife calls it:
rchalmers3
I speak Toyota
X2. Wheel cylinders with almost stuck pistons can cause this. The return springs cannot overcome the stuck pistons, and are left stretched out, leaving play in the area of the separating rod, which gets automatically adjusted out. So while it looks like the self adjuster is the culprit, it is actually doing its job.
Another idea is a mis-adjusted master cylinder, causing a pressure build up. Cracking the bleeders to release pressure after a drive will confirm or eliminate this as a cause. Adjusting the MC pushrod is a quick adjustment.
Rick
Quick question:
I am reassembling my rear brakes and don't know exactly where to set the adjuster. The e-brake will adjust it automatically right? So if I just throw on the drums and everything spins freely, it should work itself out.
Any other input for installing my rear brakes?
I am reassembling my rear brakes and don't know exactly where to set the adjuster. The e-brake will adjust it automatically right? So if I just throw on the drums and everything spins freely, it should work itself out.
Any other input for installing my rear brakes?
Yes. Self-adj's will tighten them up, if working correctly. You can leave the adjusters loose and slip the drums, wheels on... Pull the e-brake and you should hear the click-click of the adjusters. 7- clicks of the e-brake handle when it's done. Check the wheels by hand to see if there's a slight drag when spinning.
Use anti-seize on the threaded portion and head of the adjuster assy, since you're in rust country.
Good luck.
Use anti-seize on the threaded portion and head of the adjuster assy, since you're in rust country.
Good luck.
Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
Before you slap the drum on there, look on the backside of the brakes. There will be a slot at about the star wheel with a rubber plug. That's for setting the adjuster.
Happy T-Day!
Butt
Incidentally, all the new hardware on the rear brakes solved the over-adj issue.
Possible cause / solution
Bump
I have been struggling with this issue for quite a while now and have been replacing parts as I can find them. To date the only thing that "cured" it was to remove the adjusting arm from the self adjusters and manually adjusting everything.
I just got my cruiser back from the mechanic who has been trying to get this sorted out for some time now. He has gone through my brakes with a fine toothed comb in an effort pinpoint what is going on. He has even put his own 60 up on blocks to compare specs and parts.
Anyways, he realized that my endfloat is out of tolerance. Meaning, my hub and axle have more play in and out than what they should have. So that would mean (possibly) that the hub is sliding in and out enough to cause the pads come out of the normal wear zone and up onto the ridge that is developed over time in your drums. Once they slide up onto that ridge they would then be catching and be effectively locked.
Our theory is supported by the wear patterns on the drums. One side had a nice sharp edge to the wear ridge and the other side was chamfered.
Now, I can not prove / disprove this as I was not able to find the proper sized thrust washer to fix the extra play in the axle locally. So we had the drums skimmed to remove the ridges. This has taken care of the problem thus far, but I have not put to many kilometers on the truck since the repair. But this makes as much sense as anything and we have tried everything except complete replacement of parts.
Now to order the proper oversized thrust washers....
Bump
I have been struggling with this issue for quite a while now and have been replacing parts as I can find them. To date the only thing that "cured" it was to remove the adjusting arm from the self adjusters and manually adjusting everything.
I just got my cruiser back from the mechanic who has been trying to get this sorted out for some time now. He has gone through my brakes with a fine toothed comb in an effort pinpoint what is going on. He has even put his own 60 up on blocks to compare specs and parts.
Anyways, he realized that my endfloat is out of tolerance. Meaning, my hub and axle have more play in and out than what they should have. So that would mean (possibly) that the hub is sliding in and out enough to cause the pads come out of the normal wear zone and up onto the ridge that is developed over time in your drums. Once they slide up onto that ridge they would then be catching and be effectively locked.
Our theory is supported by the wear patterns on the drums. One side had a nice sharp edge to the wear ridge and the other side was chamfered.
Now, I can not prove / disprove this as I was not able to find the proper sized thrust washer to fix the extra play in the axle locally. So we had the drums skimmed to remove the ridges. This has taken care of the problem thus far, but I have not put to many kilometers on the truck since the repair. But this makes as much sense as anything and we have tried everything except complete replacement of parts.
Now to order the proper oversized thrust washers....
Sounds as good as anything else... Full Floater rear axle?
semi float
I could see this happening if the proper pre-load was not set on a FF, but where would one fit a thrust washer on the SF?
At the C-clip ?
At the C-clip ?
This is the parts diagram that my mechanic sent me.
The part number and washer that are highlighted are the ones that I am talking about.
Ok, I see ... Now I may be mistaken, but those only effect the side (carrier) bearing adjustment... I don't think they will have any effect on axle run out... ?
According to the FSM, those TWs are used to adj gear backlash... (pg 216)
Do you have the FSM ?
Index of /Cruiser and M416 Manuals
According to the FSM, those TWs are used to adj gear backlash... (pg 216)
Do you have the FSM ?
Index of /Cruiser and M416 Manuals
