The star-shaped adjuster is not perfectly in the middle of the hole at 6 o'clock. It is slightly off to one side. Once I figured that out, it is pretty easy to adjust the brakes.
Rear Brake Job (2 Viewers)
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The star-shaped adjuster is not perfectly in the middle of the hole at 6 o'clock. It is slightly off to one side. Once I figured that out, it is pretty easy to adjust the brakes.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Only in Midland TX
Going to get the brake pads and rotors done all around on the cruiser this week. Is there any need to do the 40 pumps of the brake pedal and open the reservoir if I'm not removing any lines?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Yes!
When installing brake pads. You'll need to press the caliper piston in. If you do not open the bleeder of piston you're pressing in, the reservoir level will raise. You may then end up with res overfilling. If you open a bleeder, you need to bleed as final step. So in the end you will need to set level in reservoir, regardless. Read how (pump pedal 40 times, IG OFF) to set level, which is embossed on the reservoir.
Also, I like time booster motor run timing before and after bleeding/flushing. If time goes up higher after. Either air in system or a leak.
BTW: Flushing brake fluid very often and setting level properly. Is critical to the health of brake master and caliper seals.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
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Thanks for the reply and starting that overdue brake thread yesterday, all good info.Yes!
When installing brake pads. You'll need to press the caliper piston in. If you do not open the bleeder of piston you're pressing in, the reservoir level will raise. You may end overfilling. If you open a bleeder you need to bleed as final step. So in the end you will need to set level in reservoir, regardless. Read how (pump pedal 40 times, IG OFF) to set level, which is embossed on the reservoir.
Also, I like time booster motor run timing before and after bleeding/flushing. If time goes up higher after. Either air in system or a leak.
BTW: Flushing brake fluid very often and setting level properly. Is critical to the health of brake master and caliper seals.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
I was going to have a shop do the brake job since it's cold as heck and my driveway is already frozen gravel.
Now i feel like I should just do this repair on my own because I doubt the shop will follow that procedure
I’ve been through a quite few threads to get answers to a few questions on how the shims, pad support plates, and squealer fit on the rear brakes. Figured I’d just land this picture here for future reference and for others. There’s some discussion about which shim goes inner and which goes outer but I’m going with what I first read @2001LC said he was doing (though by my reading, he’s seen and done both ways.). I’m going to use some CRC Disc Brake Quiet as well so probably does not much matter. Did not notate in the pic but the left of the pic is inward toward the vehicle.
One of the big mysteries of the FSM is that it shows an outer and inner anti-squeal shim for each pad. I knew that the kit contained four shims and was supposed to do both sides but the FSM pic derailed me into trying to figure out how two fit on one pad. As you can see they are actually one piece - one part metal and one part rubber. Why it shows them as two distinct pieces is beyond me. Hope this helps someone!
All OEM parts btw.
One of the big mysteries of the FSM is that it shows an outer and inner anti-squeal shim for each pad. I knew that the kit contained four shims and was supposed to do both sides but the FSM pic derailed me into trying to figure out how two fit on one pad. As you can see they are actually one piece - one part metal and one part rubber. Why it shows them as two distinct pieces is beyond me. Hope this helps someone!
All OEM parts btw.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I have placed the shims both ways. That is horseshoe shape rubber on inside or on out side. Horseshoe inside, than wear indicator will fit on inside. Which 9 out of 10 times I find inner pads wear faster. So I like wear indicator on inside. It's also where I find them, most times. I sometime put inside top, as top clips seem to stay a little cleaner. But FSM shows wear indicator (outside bottom) positioned. Which means horseshoe out side.
But having horseshoe shape rubber of squeal shim inside pad. This may give just a little delay in braking. As piston must pressing against shim must take-up the void between shim lacking rubber back at that point, until contact with back of pad. Will driver notice, not likely. Will braking be affected, doesn't seem to.
Fitting clips (pad support plates), I remember it as Top Side In, Bottom Out. Does it matter, likely not. I just make sure tabs do not hit boots. But it is they way FSM appears to show, and how I see them the most in lowest mile 100 series I work on.
Here pictures of a 64K miles 100 series rears fitting clips (pad support plate).
Notice FSM show 2 different grease used. I use the two Toyota recommended grease as shown. Toyota Rubber grease (Lithium soap base glycol grease) is a very light watery grease safe on rubber. Disc brake grease, is thicker and has additives (possibly moly or graphite).
Also notice; FSM show lower sliding pin and rubber bushing as non-reusable. IMHO I believe this is if rubber bushing separated from pin. But if I find any wear on either pin or bushing. I replace the new OEM lower pin w/bushing assy.
FSM also shows the pin boots as non-reusable. These are a very good part to not only replace during servicing. But to inspect annually. If they're not in proper working condition, seated properly and tight. We get water entry into pin bore of torque plate. Which will damage the torque plate. If pin bore of torque plate enlarged, pins move excessively. We may get some brake clunk. We may also get some vibration while braking.
Also be aware, calipers have and R (right side) or L (left side), molded on them. As they are side specific. Torque plates are not. But note, pin w/bushing goes on bottom.
But having horseshoe shape rubber of squeal shim inside pad. This may give just a little delay in braking. As piston must pressing against shim must take-up the void between shim lacking rubber back at that point, until contact with back of pad. Will driver notice, not likely. Will braking be affected, doesn't seem to.
Fitting clips (pad support plates), I remember it as Top Side In, Bottom Out. Does it matter, likely not. I just make sure tabs do not hit boots. But it is they way FSM appears to show, and how I see them the most in lowest mile 100 series I work on.
Here pictures of a 64K miles 100 series rears fitting clips (pad support plate).
Notice FSM show 2 different grease used. I use the two Toyota recommended grease as shown. Toyota Rubber grease (Lithium soap base glycol grease) is a very light watery grease safe on rubber. Disc brake grease, is thicker and has additives (possibly moly or graphite).
Also notice; FSM show lower sliding pin and rubber bushing as non-reusable. IMHO I believe this is if rubber bushing separated from pin. But if I find any wear on either pin or bushing. I replace the new OEM lower pin w/bushing assy.
FSM also shows the pin boots as non-reusable. These are a very good part to not only replace during servicing. But to inspect annually. If they're not in proper working condition, seated properly and tight. We get water entry into pin bore of torque plate. Which will damage the torque plate. If pin bore of torque plate enlarged, pins move excessively. We may get some brake clunk. We may also get some vibration while braking.
Also be aware, calipers have and R (right side) or L (left side), molded on them. As they are side specific. Torque plates are not. But note, pin w/bushing goes on bottom.
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I found it difficult to get the new pin boots over the lip on the torque plate so just went with it seated against he lip. Would like to go back in and seat them properly, any tips?
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2001LC
SILVER Star
I use a small prob, with slight cure to it. Place boot onto seat,as much as possible, usually about halve way on seat. Then hook remainder of boot with prob and pull over seat, with a slide action (pulling around seat from inside of boot outwards and over seat).
Note: I do clean seat area very well first.
Note: I do clean seat area very well first.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Also note calipers are marked R & L, it matters they be on proper side. Also Pin with rubber, goes in bottom hole of torque plate. (see diagram from FSM above, in post #27.)
Great job. I too need a comprehensive parts number listing for rear brakes on my 2006 lc.
GTV
SILVER Star
@2001LC
I'm searching for OEM Toyota rear brake pads for my '07, both McGeorge and Partsouq show them as not available or discontinued. Any leads out there?
The inside pad on the left rear wore down to metal and made a mess of the rotor as well. Luckily the boot is ok and I'm not leaking fluid. I just had the rotors turned and I've got some pads coming from Napa in the morning just to get me through the next 1600 miles. I'll put new Toyota calipers and pads on once I get to my destination but for now I just need to stop.
I'm searching for OEM Toyota rear brake pads for my '07, both McGeorge and Partsouq show them as not available or discontinued. Any leads out there?
The inside pad on the left rear wore down to metal and made a mess of the rotor as well. Luckily the boot is ok and I'm not leaking fluid. I just had the rotors turned and I've got some pads coming from Napa in the morning just to get me through the next 1600 miles. I'll put new Toyota calipers and pads on once I get to my destination but for now I just need to stop.
Is the 07 different than my 02?
What part # are you working with
and the shim kit
What part # are you working with
and the shim kit
GTV
SILVER Star
2006-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Brake Pads 0446660110 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
2006-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser part # 0446660110 - Brake Pads
parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
2001LC
SILVER Star
You can use either the older or new P/N for pads. They're just manufacture to a different environment standard, from what we can tell. Or go aftermarket (AM). Benefit to aftermarket, saves on shim kit provide attach to pad. Some do use the outer shim with AM, but I've not found needed.
Which is the correct setup for fitting kits or plates or perhaps there is option #3. I did not pay close attention before taking them off. Maybe it does not matter.
I went through the same but I cant remember. I always do one side at a time now for referencing.
I think I will go with option 1 where those “extra” supports are on opposite side each pad.
