Would this be appropriate for sliding pins and rubbers?
Rear Brake Job
- Thread starter Verybadwizard
- Start date
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Anyone could help me with the rear pad support plates please? Can not find them.
Also, what would be the correct part number for the rear caliper assembly?
My local parts guy is as clueless as I am, every time get sets me up, there is always a part or two to be added later.
Also, what would be the correct part number for the rear caliper assembly?
My local parts guy is as clueless as I am, every time get sets me up, there is always a part or two to be added later.
Don’t forget to bed in the pads like I didn’t do. Does anyone know if there’s a DIY way to cure the pads before install?
Are you looking for factory parts?
On my 2005, I think this job (replacing rear break pads) is beyond my expertise and don't necessarily want to endanger the life of my family.
So if I want to source the parts myself and have my local mechanic do it, are these the parts I'll most likely need?
So if I want to source the parts myself and have my local mechanic do it, are these the parts I'll most likely need?
- Rear brake pad kit - 04466-60070
- Rear shim kit - 04946-60031
- Upper caliper sliding pins - 47715-60010
- Lower caliper sliding pins - 47715-60020
2001LC
SILVER Star
Slide pin boots (4), Fitting kit, Caliper Mounting bolts (2), Bleeder caps (2).
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Not trying to hijack this thread. I more have a question about longevity of the brakes/rotors.
My rear driver side wheel has been making a metal rubbing sound and I just noticed a few days ago driving about 15 miles that when I got home that rotor was really hot (using laser temp gun on the four wheels). I also noticed that there is a lot of rust flakes on the wheel. Seems like something is rubbing and the metal flakes depositing onto my wheels are rusting.
Anyways, not trying to hijack the thread, but my rotors and pads were replaced by the dealer (PO) about 30,000 miles ago. The problem is that I don't know how long I have been riding it hot. Assuming I figure out WHAT is rubbing, am I going to need to replace the rear rotor(s) again? Seems like a waste with only 30k on them. And if I replace one rotor, I should probably do both rotors I'm assuming?
My rear driver side wheel has been making a metal rubbing sound and I just noticed a few days ago driving about 15 miles that when I got home that rotor was really hot (using laser temp gun on the four wheels). I also noticed that there is a lot of rust flakes on the wheel. Seems like something is rubbing and the metal flakes depositing onto my wheels are rusting.
Anyways, not trying to hijack the thread, but my rotors and pads were replaced by the dealer (PO) about 30,000 miles ago. The problem is that I don't know how long I have been riding it hot. Assuming I figure out WHAT is rubbing, am I going to need to replace the rear rotor(s) again? Seems like a waste with only 30k on them. And if I replace one rotor, I should probably do both rotors I'm assuming?
Could it be seized caliper? Are the pads equally worn ?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Not sure. Plan to pull it apart tomorrow to take a look.
2001LC
SILVER Star
No idea what rust color is. Picture of outer surface of rotor disk, not very revealing> But first impression outer surface it's okay, with possible scoring. But really need better picture to make any call here.
30K miles on rear pads, for some is much more than they get other may get 2x that. Driving style, HWY or city, rush hours spot & go all make a difference. As does those that use brakes to control down hill speed (very bad).
Also to consider: Where someone just tossed in pad. Very often boots of pins never replace and pins frozen in mounting plate.
- Other factors reducing rear pad life.
- Bad boots of slide pins
- Pins frozen.
- Cheap pads
- Bad, improper install or missing fitting kit.
- Bad brake job anyway we stack it.
- Rotor out of spec (run-out or parallelism)
- Run-out of hub to rotor. off due to not setting to best. And or not de-rusting.
- Rust build, due to not driving to dry, after rotor disk gets wet. (Rotor out of spec)
- ABS sticking or locking up a caliper. Seen this s happen once, where ABS locking RL brake caliper. It would lock on brake, and not release once brake pedal pushed just once, which pressurize the line.
Rotors may be fine and should be if not metal to metal. Even then may be. 16mm thickness of disk after turning, is minimum.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Well I pulled the wheel and caliper and found this…outside okay, inside pad GONE! I felt the back of the rotor and it’s gone. Thicker at the top and thinner near the center and scored like crazy.
Bottom caliper pin moves “okay” but top pin doesn’t move at all. Maybe I need to just replace the pins and boots? Or just the boots?
So my question is, if I’m replacing one rotor and pads I probably need to do both rotors and pads right?
Bottom caliper pin moves “okay” but top pin doesn’t move at all. Maybe I need to just replace the pins and boots? Or just the boots?
So my question is, if I’m replacing one rotor and pads I probably need to do both rotors and pads right?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Correct but you might want to find the root cause such as possible seize caliper
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I edited my post. The top caliper slide pin WON'T BUDGE! Even with at socket on it. I’m guessing that’s likely the issue?
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Has anyone had to replace the torque plate before? One of the slide pins is frozen in place. Torquing on it with a wrench I can't even get it to budge. New torque plate is $147! Given how important that piece is though I probably should just get OEM vs aftermarket if I have to replace it.
2001LC
SILVER Star
So often I see cheap brake jobs. Where a shop just replace pads. With rears, we need to replace the boots and fitting kit with pads almost always. Don't and we get water into slide pin hole of mounting plate. Typically if pin frozen in mounting plate, a new mounting plate is needed. Wait until you price those... ouch! BTW mounting plate does come with new OEM calipers. Cheap jobs coast a lot $$$
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
The unfortunate thing here is that this was (yet another thing) done at the Lexus dealer 30k miles ago. They replaced the pads/rotors/clips etc. with all OEM parts but there's no way they greased the slide pins. If they had, this would not have happened.
Interesting that I can get a new caliper bracket for $147 or I can get the assembly which comes with a caliper and bracket for $183.
Paul, do you have any thoughts on an aftermarket bracket? There are no moving parts, it's just a piece of metal so I am inclined to think it might be okay? It says remanufactured which probably means they took it off an OEM assembly during the rebuild?
