Rear Axle Rust (2 Viewers)

[florida95fzj]

Hello, are the shaded green areas part of the rear axle housing or a bracket that can be replaced?

It appears to be welded to the axle housing and I’m trying to figure out what to do about the rust.

 

[NeverFinis]

Wow, that is bad. I can take that axle off your hands and give it a good home.

I would look at the upper mounts and check if they are thinning. Mine showed more rust there than anywhere else.

Use a rust convertor and then paint. I use Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver Gel. Apply, Sit for 30+, Rinse, Repeat. I use Rust-Oleum Professional Cold Galvanizing Compound as a primer.

 

[jonheld]

All part of the axle housing.
That rust doesn't appear to be much more than cosmetic. Wire brush for a while and see what you've got.

 

[florida95fzj]

Thanks for confirming and the suggestions. I'll take a look at those mounts, brush or wheel, and see what it looks like.

I never really gave that amount of rust much thought but I was under there checking out my leaking brake hard line to the LSPV and figuring out which bolts are likely to break when I replace the springs/struts later this month.

I really need to replace any bushings that will be more difficult to replace later... but really don't want to go down the path breaking 3 things for every 1 thing I fix.

 

[jonheld]

Thanks for confirming and the suggestions. I'll take a look at those mounts, brush or wheel, and see what it looks like.

I never really gave that amount of rust much thought but I was under there checking out my leaking brake hard line to the LSPV and figuring out which bolts are likely to break when I replace the springs/struts later this month.

I really need to replace any bushings that will be more difficult to replace later... but really don't want to go down the path breaking 3 things for every 1 thing I fix.

LOL. You've obviously never seen rust before. That looks like a 3 year old truck around here. The bolt heads are all still clean. Rust is when they turn to dust when you touch them.
That said, after you've cleaned and painted all the affected areas, Fluid Film is your friend. I spray my LX450 from tip to tail every October. It helps to prevent rust (or at least slow it down where it has started) and makes removing bolts easier.

 

[florida95fzj]

LOL. You've obviously never seen rust before. That looks like a 3 year old truck around here. The bolt heads are all still clean. Rust is when they turn to dust when you touch them.
That said, after you've cleaned and painted all the affected areas, Fluid Film is your friend. I spray my LX450 from tip to tail every October. It helps to prevent rust (or at least slow it down where it has started) and makes removing bolts easier.

Yeah, it's all relative. Florida grade rust here. The biggest problem I face is every bit of steel inside my garage getting surface rust and cursing whatever tool/object I am reaching for that looked new a year ago.

 

[western flyer]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CY3Y5Q72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Dehumidifier for your garage. Or get an even larger one since you are in FL. I empty mine about once every 6 weeks in my somewhat dry area.

I am fan of Rust Bullet for treating/coating over (what is apparently) surface rust like that. You would coat it after removing the loose corrosion on the surface with a wire wheel, etc. Definitely follow the directions (and wear gloves); you do not want to waste it, as it is not cheap. You would then paint over the Rust Bullet with a top coat of normal paint. Nothing else I have used has worked better.

Amazon.com

 

[BILT4ME]

You could also do a media blast, then prime and paint. Depends on your air compressor situation, how much you want to disassemble and what media you choose. Walnut, sand, black beauty, steel shot

 

[Kernal]

If close to the Ocean you'll get corrosion from the salt in the air but as others have said, that's not bad. FWIW I recently cleaned, wire wheeled, brushed and sanded by hand, then primed and painted my rear axle housing (also in FL) which wasn't that much better than the photo above before I started. It was a ton of work (mostly removing old undercoating, turpentine works well) doing it while laying on my back in the driveway (wheels off, frame resting on four 12-ton jack stands). I taped off the emergency brake cable and a couple other small things but mostly went over the bracket bolts as this wasn't meant to be a 100 point restoration, more for long term protection.

One bracket that needed special attention (more corrosion than anything else) was the right rear ABS sensor wire bracket on the backside of the axle housing. For some reason that bracket had significant corrosion; only guess is the factory that produced the ABS wire assembly did not paint/plate/protect that bracket as well as the others?? I had that bracket Cerakoted (E Series black) along with a batch of other parts.

FWIW I used SprayMax 2K Epoxy primer (2-3 cans IIRC) and 2k Epoxy Top Coat, 2-3 cans (Hot Rod Satin Black). Came out nice.
Only drawback to the SprayMax 2K paint is that the pot-life is only 24 hours once the can in activated, after that it cures solid inside the can
so you have to plan your work out, get everything prepped and ready before you start.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

my call on bad enough. This is after hitting with a hammer.

 

[Jwoodywild]

LOL. You've obviously never seen rust before. That looks like a 3 year old truck around here. The bolt heads are all still clean. Rust is when they turn to dust when you touch them.
That said, after you've cleaned and painted all the affected areas, Fluid Film is your friend. I spray my LX450 from tip to tail every October. It helps to prevent rust (or at least slow it down where it has started) and makes removing bolts easier.

Newbie here who is looking to do some protection near the beach - are you able to apply it all without jacking up the car? Is it a 'no such thing as too much' kind of process or more surgical application?

 

[Fosters]

Gotta be close to the beach…
I’m in central florida and suffer no rust at all…

 

[jonheld]

Newbie here who is looking to do some protection near the beach - are you able to apply it all without jacking up the car? Is it a 'no such thing as too much' kind of process or more surgical application?

I lay out disposable plastic tarps in my driveway and use 4 of those black plastic Autozone ramps. I darn a Tyvek suit and go to work with a pneumatic paint sprayer. From tip to tail, nothing is spared. It'll burn off the exhaust once you run it for a while, and the brakes will be somewhat ineffective for the first few stops.

 

[SpenserAK]

I avoid the obvious (braking surface, etc) but give it a thorough & targeted hosing down. It doesn't need to be chunky, just full coverage.

Highly recommend at least getting the wand attachment for spray cans to snake in all the frame & body holes. Planning to get a spray gun at some point.

Your clearance needs will depend on the truck. Mine was easy to do without jacking up, being lifted on 315s. But man, doing it on a lift sounds like a dream.

It can help to remove the wheels for certain spots. I usually do those areas when I already have them off for other work.

 

[thedoughboy]

In Australia, but an interesting approach. Maybe there is a shop in States that uses this technique:

Expert Arctic Blasting Detailing | Woonona, NSW

Arctic Blasting is a leading expert in the field of dry ice blasting, detailing, protective coatings, catering to the automotive, marine, industrial, and mining industries.

www.arcticblasting.com.au

 

[Irish Reiver]

My weapon of choice for tackling rust like this on the axles is a needle scaler. Obviously you need space and a decent compressor but the finish is as good as you will get. Beats wire wheeling especially in the corners.