Rear Axle Help FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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If you decide to convert a non locking axle housing to a locking one here is the work your looking to have done.
Please note the following info is copied from Slee offroad web site.
Sleeoffroad.com - Toyota SUV Off-Road Outfitters


Retrofitting Toyota lockers into non-lockered housing
The question of retrofitting oem Toyota electric differential lockers to non-lockered axles come up quite a bit. On this page we would like to point out some of the things that need to be done. Yes, it can be done. Typically at shop rates, it is not cost effective. It doesn't mean it can't be done.

By far the easiest and cheapest way to do it, is to find donor axles from a truck to just swap into yours. You will also need the diff lock ecu, and various pieces or the electrical harness. If you locate a truck of the same vintage (ie, 1993-1004 or 1995-1997) it should be a simple plug and play option.

The harness from the switch position (to the left of the steering wheel) to the ecu position (in the right kick panel) is already installed. What is needed is rear harness from inside the left side rear quarter panel to the locker and the front harness. As well as the locker ecu.

Although the axles from all the years should interchange, the harnesses does not. You would also have to put the lights & sockets into the instrument cluster to make it light up.

If complete axle housings with third members are not available, then you can retrofit the third member. This ranks high on the banana scale, and should not be attempted without the right tools and knowledge.

Below is a photo of a front housing, showing the new holes that need to be drilled and the area that needs to be notched. As can be seen from the photo, it can be done, however the seal area is quite a bit smaller and can cause leaks in the future.

We will expand on this page as soon as we have more pictures available.

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Front housing modified to accept electric locker third member

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A metal plate is bolted to the third member mounting surface.

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Next we use a portable magnetic drill press to drill corner holes on the notch.

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Using an auger bit to form the corners of the notch.


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Next we cut the notch between the two holes.

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Some welded is added to the housing to increase the sealing area. This is ground smooth to provide a flat sealing surface for the third member.

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The modification complate with the new holes drilled and tapped.
 
zzdenis, I love your optimism! He is just stating that he doesn't know how deep the rust goes and therefore he would prefer to replace it. He has offered to drop it, blast it, and reinstall but for the price he quoted me, I think I may be better off looking for a replacement.

Davidp, I can't say for sure but when I struck a screwdriver into it, with as much force as I could muster, it really doesn't give or anything.
 
zzdenis, I love your optimism! He is just stating that he doesn't know how deep the rust goes and therefore he would prefer to replace it. He has offered to drop it, blast it, and reinstall but for the price he quoted me, I think I may be better off looking for a replacement.

Davidp, I can't say for sure but when I struck a screwdriver into it, with as much force as I could muster, it really doesn't give or anything.

Trust me. You dont need to do anything to that axle. It still has traces of most of the original black finish! Your mechanic needs some schooling up north. Just about every car/truck that sees winter up here will look like that after 5-8 years. I wish i took pictures of some Toyota trucks that i get to work on up here.. The amount of rust on those pictures is literally NOTHING compared to rust belt vehicles of similar vintage. Sure, it looks ugly. You may want to do something about it for cosmetic reasons... But that axle is very far from having structural issues due to rust.

As for the info from slee website - you can disregard most of it. It mostly applies to the front axle. Modifying the rear is MUCH easier. No need to drill/tap/weld anything. Just need about 5 minutes with and angle or die grinder to cut some metal away to clear the locking collar and ring gear, replace a few studs with longer ones and youre tgood to go.
 
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From the pictures the axle housing doesn't look that bad. Sand blasting and repaint should get that up to snuff. That said the same thing needs to be done with all the other stuff in your pictures that connects to the axle, the swaybar, mounts, brackets, nuts, bolts etc. I would be pulling the rear brakes apart making sure everything is in good shape including the emergency brake. All of this you could do with basic tools, sweat and time for not that much money. Having a mechanic or someone else do that will be expensive.
 
That's not that bad. By time you buy one from me, ship it, install it... I would just say clean that one up.

I will gladly take your money but I think you are going about this all wrong.
 
Depending on where you're at there's one being parted out in Houston. Not mine but I've talked to the guy a few times, still had the axles last weekend. It's not locked, need to convert. PM for a #
 
That's not that bad. By time you buy one from me, ship it, install it... I would just say clean that one up.

I will gladly take your money but I think you are going about this all wrong.
Well, I do appreciate your honesty. So I guess the general consensus here is that my axle is not too far gone and a good blasting and recoat should suffice. That is good news, I would say. Thank you, to everyone who chimed in.

I suppose I will give that a go. Is there anything else that I should be paying special attention to, while under there? I think I would like to go on and find new control arms and panhard rod for the rear. Any recommendations on these items?
 
Check the hard brake lines for rust. Especially near the calipers and around LSPV. Very common for them to rust and start leaking in rust belt trucks. If you see any rust on the lines, replace with new from the dealer (they're surprisingly cheap)
 
I do have a good clean unlocked one and am in ATX.

However, that is salvageable. It's the ol' time vs money adage.... You can remove the entire axle, break it down, blast and powdercoat it and it will look brand new and have all new parts. @Golgo13 did a great job on his front (IIRC) and it was worse than yours.
 
I am always amazed at the rust folks are willing to deal with. I would not.

But-the existing one looks like you could just keep driving until it fails. It looks terrible but if not leaking and works, I'd just keep on Cruising. I could go for years just like this and I wouldn't worry about it.

If you want to break it down and blast/paint it, that's a job to do yourself. Paying a shop will not be affordable because it's a ton of work.
 
I do have a good clean unlocked one and am in ATX.

However, that is salvageable. It's the ol' time vs money adage.... You can remove the entire axle, break it down, blast and powdercoat it and it will look brand new and have all new parts. @Golgo13 did a great job on his front (IIRC) and it was worse than yours.
Yuuuup!
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I got a front axle housing from @arcteryx had it degreased, acid washed, phosphated, e-coated and painted in epoxy and urethane. Then a bunch of new parts and a lot of time with wrenches.
I plan the same for the rear, but the one I got from Cruiseryard was clean enough that I haven't bothered yet.
 
I would get the one and clean and replace all of your bad parts, and get it powder coated, heavy and then put it back together and be happy
 
To everyone that has responded, I would just like to say thanks. I recently come from the Jeep world, “actually still have the little TJ” and got a lot of use from various forums and members there. I was really hoping to find something equivalent for this new ride and I must say that I am pleasantly surprised to have found it here.

As far as an update, I have decided to go with what I believe the consensus here to be, and taken the truck home. Over the next week or so, I will be collecting some components “mostly bushings” and then I will begin the rust removal process in the garage. I’m sure I will have more questions as I get going. In the meantime, allow me to properly introduce my new rig.

1997 LX450 40th Anniversary

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