Real time help request - lifting 80 Series engine for motor mount replacement (1 Viewer)

[Bambusiero]

I'm replacing motor mounts - FZJ80 Landcruiser.
So, need to lift the engine just enough to get motor mounts out and back in.

Can I support the weight of the engine on the broad flat lower surface of the upper (cast aluminum) oil pan? (using a sturdy flat piece of wood to spread the weight, and a jack from below)
Is it safe? Cracking, oil seal integrity, etc.

Or - do I need to fab up a bridge over the top of the engine and lift using a chain through the official lift eyes?

I don't have easy access to a cherry picker.

Thanks.

 

[SNLC]

Cherry picker, don’t half arse it. Harbor Freight for under $200, sell on CL when done. Or just go rent one.

Cheers

 

[richardlillard1]

I just put the jack with the right configuration of wood blocks under the crank pulley. Remove the fan first, go slowly and check for things getting pinched or otherwise destroyed while moving the engine.

 

[Bambusiero]

Oh? Support the whole engine on the crank pulley w no damage?
Can you think of anything else I need to protect other than the fan?

 

[shocktower]

Oh? Support the whole engine on the crank pulley w no damage?
Can you think of anything else I need to protect other than the fan?

Also loosen the tranny mounts and remove front drive line, it's to bad you live so far away, I have very cool cherry picker, it is a WW2 bomb hoist

 

[jaymar]

Also loosen the tranny mounts and remove front drive line, it's to bad you live so far away, I have very cool cherry picker, it is a WW2 bomb hoist

Photo?

 

[Bambusiero]

Also loosen the tranny mounts and remove front drive line, it's to bad you live so far away, I have very cool cherry picker, it is a WW2 bomb hoist

1) remove air cleaner - for big wrench access to passenger side upper motor mount bolt. Remove upper motor mount bolt.
2) unbolt dip stick, unbolt power steering tank, remove vapor canister w bracket, remove high tension wire from ignition coil, remove intake manifold ground wire - for big wrench access to driver side upper motor mount bolt. Remove upper motor mount bolt.
3) remove fan to avoid breaking on shroud.
4) loosen the tranny mounts -> done - rear/tranny mount replacement is getting done too - nuts left loose.
5) remove front drive line -> just because it's in the way for access to the engine mount?
6) From another thread -> (after lifting) Was recommended to unbolt the engine-motor mount struts from the block and remove along with the motor mounts. And then bolt the new motor mount back onto the strut and replace the assembly. 4 bolts hold the strut to the block, each side. For easier non-captive access. Good idea?

 

[baldilocks]

A floor jack and a 2x4 works just fine. Put the 2x4 flatly against the upper oil pan at the very forward end. You may need another length of 2x4 to reach from the jack to the oil pan. Position the jack off center on the oil pan to the side favoring the isolator that you want to install so as to rock the engine up and over. Install that mount, drop the jack, reposition jack to the opposite side of the oil pan and repeat. Be sure to loosen the rear (transmission) isolator. I replaced all three isolators when I did mine a couple years ago.

 

[Bambusiero]

A floor jack and a 2x4 works just fine. Put the 2x4 flatly against the upper oil pan at the very forward end. You may need another length of 2x4 to reach from the jack to the oil pan. Position the jack off center on the oil pan to the side favoring the isolator that you want to install so as to rock the engine up and over. Install that mount, drop the jack, reposition jack to the opposite side of the oil pan and repeat. Be sure to loosen the rear (transmission) isolator. I replaced all three isolators when I did mine a couple years ago.

Great! Thank you sir. Saves me a lot of time & running around for a cherry picker.

BTW. For those who haven't been there yet.
The rear (transmission) isolator/mount is really easy, compared to the motor mounts.
Just support the transfer case and drop the whole crossmember.
I used the standard Landcruiser screw jack and an 8" piece of 2x4 to lift the transfer case, just a little, to take weight off. Then remove the transmission support crossmember completely, while leaving the isolator in place on the transmission. Then you have easy access to the 4 bolts that tie it to the transmission.
Suggest allowing extra time to do rust remediation on the trapped frame to crossmember surfaces (one of those "while you're in there" things). Even my lifetime Arizona truck had some rust there. Snowy salty locations - might be a lot worse.

 

[DiscoCam]

Ok, I am trying to do my engine mounts right now. I have the transmission mount loose, both engine mounts unbolted. Fan and intake pipe are out of the way.

I am a little confused on where to jack the engine up. I'm trying to jack up the front of the aluminum oil pan, but that just keeps lifting the frame of the truck off of the front axle. Maybe I need to ratchet strap the frame to the axle? Or should I just keep jacking it up until the engine lifts off?

Also it looks much easier to jack it up from the crank pulley. My gut feeling says that this is a bad idea and I could damage the main bearings in the engine or worse.

Anyone have any tips? Thank you.

 

[thegadgetguy]

@DiscoCam
The suspension will unload as you observed, since you're removing the weight of the engine from the suspension. After a few inches it will stop and the motor will lift off the mounts. You could probably strap the axle to the frame as you suggested, but I don't really think that's necessary. I didn't when I did mine.

I found removing the little bracket that goes between the engine and the actual rubber motor mount to be helpful when I did mine. I didn't see that mentioned in any of the threads I read, but I couldn't finagle the new mount in without doing that.

I can't comment on jacking from the crank pulley.

 

[DiscoCam]

@DiscoCam
The suspension will unload as you observed, since you're removing the weight of the engine from the suspension. After a few inches it will stop and the motor will lift off the mounts. You could probably strap the axle to the frame as you suggested, but I don't really think that's necessary. I didn't when I did mine.

I found removing the little bracket that goes between the engine and the actual rubber motor mount to be helpful when I did mine. I didn't see that mentioned in any of the threads I read, but I couldn't finagle the new mount in without doing that.

I can't comment on jacking from the crank pulley.

Thanks for the reply @thegadgetguy. I guess I will keep jacking and see how that goes.

I have OME stock height coils so I don't imagine it should have too much up travel.

I'll go try again now.

 

[DiscoCam]

Got the new mounts in. Thanks again for the help. Hopefully all of my weird vibrations are gone now.

 

[samiam09]

yeah know I tired the jack thing on my fj60, was not a good choice had to do the job twice second time with a cherry picker. Same time same money rent one or borrow one and do the job once.

 

[bwakeling]

just did this using an engine hoist. wasnt too bad. passenger side mount was totally shot and the driver side wasnt far behind. loosened up the ecu firewall mount and the heater control valve just to make sure I didnt bind it up.

 

[richardlillard1]

Agree. After having done a few sets now, the engine hoist is the way to go. I still disconnect the heater valve and wiring harness from the firewall to let things move around

 

[flintknapper]

Agree. After having done a few sets now, the engine hoist is the way to go. I still disconnect the heater valve and wiring harness from the firewall to let things move around

Did mine about a month ago, used an engine hoist. Hope to never have to do that job again.

 

[bwakeling]

Should add that I wrapped the chain right around the passenger mount on the block and then used the lift point on the head for the drivers side. even then still needed the BFH and chisel to pound them into place. truck is on jackstands recovering from head gasket surgery so no way was a jack getting anywhere near it. would have been ok if the wheels were on the ground.

 

[DiscoCam]

Not terrible to use a floor jack and a 2x4, but yeah a hoist would make it easier. Not the hardest job I've had to do on this thing but it's not that simple.

 

[Scrapedknuckles]

I used a hoist. Chain around crank pulley. Take your time. One pull at a time.