Real Time Help Needed. Clutch Install. (1 Viewer)

[Green Bean]

I'm working on trying to install a new clutch/pressure plate for the 4speed conversion project and I've run into a bit of a roadblock. The clutch is in with the alignment tool and the pressure plate has 3 of the bolts in. However, it is very difficult to try and rotate the flywheel to get access to the remaining bolts. I have a large prybar and I can get it to move with a lot of force, but I'm worried that I might damage something. I certainly don't want to break a tooth off of the newly resurfaced flywheel. I even removed the sparkplugs thinking that might make it easier. No dice. Any and all suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[CondeCruiser]

I was going to say plugs but you already did that. I vaguely remember using a 1/2" ratchet to rotate it.

 

[Green Bean]

I have not refilled the oil since I removed and replaced the oil pan. But, I wouldn't think that would be the issue, would it?

 

[pb4ugo]

Prior to the clutch, did you do anything with the rear main seal or pull the rear main bearing cap?

 

[Green Bean]

Prior to the clutch, did you do anything with the rear main seal or pull the rear main bearing cap?

Yes. I dropped the oil pan, removed the rear bearing cap, and replaced the rear main seal. Later when I got this far over the weekend, I retraced my steps, re-dropped the oil pan, removed the rear bearing cap again and checked everything. I was able to rotate the flywheel with about the same degree of difficulty witht the bearing cap off. So I re-assembled everything. And I'm back to where I was.

 

[peesalot]

I would get some earl in there and see if it moves, leave pan off, soak bottom & top of cyl's with your favorite stuff, if still tight maybe have a lok at cam gear, are belts still on, maybe a froze alt or ps pump ?

 

[Green Bean]

I would get some earl in there and see if it moves, leave pan off, soak bottom & top of cyl's with your favorite stuff, if still tight maybe have a lok at cam gear, are belts still on, maybe a froze alt or ps pump ?

Could be? The motor ran fine when I started this project about a week ago.

 

[77mustard40]

I'm being lazy, but didn't you say in your main 4-speed thread that the bolts to your rear main bearing cap were not fully torqued? I don't want to say lose but not difficult to break free. Now that you torqued them to spec I wonder if there is something up with that bearing?

Edit: I went back an looked at your thread and also looked through my pics from my clutch job a few years ago, unfortunately I didn't take a pic of my bearing cap. That said I'm not sure I like the looks of the cap, here's your pic zoomed in. I'm not an expert but you may want to focus on this before you try to go too far forward. What did that cap feel like to the touch, looks like its starting to fail.

 

[Green Bean]

I'm being lazy, but didn't you say in your main 4-speed thread that the bolts to your rear main bearing cap were not fully torqued? I don't want to say lose but not difficult to break free. Now that you torqued them to spec I wonder if there is something up with that bearing?

Edit: I went back an looked at your thread and also looked through my pics from my clutch job a few years ago, unfortunately I didn't take a pic of my bearing cap. That said I'm not sure I like the looks of the cap, here's your pic zoomed in. I'm not an expert but you may want to focus on this before you try to go too far forward. What did that cap feel like to the touch, looks like its starting to fail.

View attachment 3567738

Thanks! Yeah, I was afraid of that. I guess I'll drop the pan again and remove the cap (again) And see if the flywheel spins better.

 

[Rgill]

I'm being lazy, but didn't you say in your main 4-speed thread that the bolts to your rear main bearing cap were not fully torqued? I don't want to say lose but not difficult to break free. Now that you torqued them to spec I wonder if there is something up with that bearing?

Edit: I went back an looked at your thread and also looked through my pics from my clutch job a few years ago, unfortunately I didn't take a pic of my bearing cap. That said I'm not sure I like the looks of the cap, here's your pic zoomed in. I'm not an expert but you may want to focus on this before you try to go too far forward. What did that cap feel like to the touch, looks like its starting to fail.

View attachment 3567738

This bearing is toast. Might want to look at all the bearings.

 

[77mustard40]

Sorry to dig that up, but you will be better off dealing with this now rather than smoking one or more bearings and wiping out your crank and who knows what else. My bad for not looking at those pictures more closely the first time.

 

[whitey45]

If you cant move it with a prybar, something is not right? I would pull the flywheel and see if things rotate ok. Flywheel bolts too long?

 

[Green Bean]

I really appreciate everyone's help. Reporting back: Dropped the oil pan and removed the bearing cap. Flywheel rotates. Reinstalled bearing cap for the time being and the flywheel turns easier with the aid of a prybar on the teeth. So, I went ahead and finished the clutch/pressure plate install. I left the oil pan off for now. I'm afraid to ask but here goes: How big of a job is it to replace all of the bearings?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I don't think is a big job to replace the crank and or the conrod bearings with block upside down in a stand. Doing it upside down while it's in the rig is way more than I'd want to try.

You could try some "plastic gauge" to see what kind of fit is there now in that one you have moving.
Usually you pull all that stuff, inspect/measure the surfaces, have any machining done then put in the new parts that were ordered to fit. With unknown stuff, you can find things like they only "fixed one bearing" so there could be different sizes.

 

[pb4ugo]

So with the cap off it rotates easier? What's the journal look like? On the back side of the bearing shell there should be some form of measurements or std. Plastigage might be a good idea along with more investigation of other caps. Did you lubricate the bearing b4 installing the cap?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Main bearings about $200, connecting rod set $50 then there is more gaskets and seals.

Land Cruiser – JT Outfitters

www.jtoutfitters.com

 

[Mark Jennings]

I know on the F engines, there are shims in the bearing caps. Made up for the blade width of the factory saw blade used to cut the caps from the block casting. If it’s an F, and the shims are not there….it’ll squeeze the bearing halves agains the crankshaft and lock her up.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Here is a photo of the F Engine main bearing shims. The goofy looking one is the shim at the flywheel end. These shims are like .002” thick, they are very very thin. Easy to lose and misplace.

 

[73FJ40]

Buy	Quantity	Part Number	Description	Price	In Stock
Add to Cart		034-09	MAIN BEARING SHIM SET Fits 58-9/73 F gas engine - Kit includes a complete set of both .004 inch (.1mm) and .007 inch (.18mm) shim thicknesses. On Sale - Everyone gets the Discounted Price on this part. WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm — www.p65warnings.ca.gov	$70.00

 

[Green Bean]

Thank you everyone. The motor is approaching its 54 year anniversary. So, it is no spring chicken and would undoubtedly benefit from a rebuild by someone more talented than myself. For now, I'm going to try and get as much out of her as I can. Since there were no shims in the bearing cap and since removing/loosening seemed to free things up, I ordered the above-referenced shim set. (Thanks @73FJ40 and @Mark Jennings). The plan is to proceed on with the 4-speed conversion project and button her up and drive it as much as I can before she croaks.