*Real-time help* Battery terminal replacment (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Threads
16
Messages
222
Location
Maine
Hi all- I need help.

Cruiser would not start last night and I popped the hood to find seriously corroded battery terminals. Went to NAPA this morning, bought replacement terminals and battery, cleaned corrosion with boiling water but I am not sure what to do with the fuse box connection to the positive terminal- I don't think the terminals I got will work.

Does anyone know what part I need to make this happen and where to get it?

Can I get it at an auto parts store?

Thanks so much in advance I am in a pickle as this is my daily driver.

-Jon

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Fusible link end looks fine after you've cleaned it. Undo the terminal end, get a terminal that looks like this:

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Not one for bare cable like you got from Napa. Put fusible link on where the wing nut is. Then, coat the whole deal in either battery terminal corrosion spray or a light smear of marine grease to prevent future corrosion.
 
The disintegrated terminal is easily available both OEM and aftermarket. 90982-05035

However, you should really go through, assess/clean the fuse block assembly. Consider changing the negative terminal as well.
 
It amazes me that you haven't had charging troubles before now. My 2001 LX - Alt S fuse gets the smallest bit of corrosion on the fuse contacts then my alternator starts putting out a full 16v. I changed out 3 alternators before I realized what was causing it.

Then I cleaned my Alt-S fuse contacts with DeOxIt and then a little bit of silicon jell. So far no more problems but, it has only been about a month, so I am still keeping an eye on it. I might add that my battery posts were tight and connections were spotless!
 
It amazes me that you haven't had charging troubles before now. My 2001 LX - Alt S fuse gets the smallest bit of corrosion on the fuse contacts then my alternator starts putting out a full 16v. I changed out 3 alternators before I realized what was causing it.

Then I cleaned my Alt-S fuse contacts with DeOxIt and then a little bit of silicon jell. So far no more problems but, it has only been about a month, so I am still keeping an eye on it. I might add that my battery posts were tight and connections were spotless!
The crazy thing is that the photo showing the most corrosion was after I had already cleaned heavily and vacuumed- it was much worse! Like a mountain of corrosion to where you could not see any of the terminal.
 
Fusible link end looks fine after you've cleaned it. Undo the terminal end, get a terminal that looks like this:

76-9221_3.jpg


Not one for bare cable like you got from Napa. Put fusible link on where the wing nut is. Then, coat the whole deal in either battery terminal corrosion spray or a light smear of marine grease to prevent future corrosion.
Thanks- I just picket up the genuine Toyota terminal and I am hoping that I wont have to mess with the fuse assembly.

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Thanks to everyone who chimed in- mudders are the best! I will report back hopefully with good news.
 
Thanks to everyone who chimed in- mudders are the best! I will report back hopefully with good news.

Please do because people reporting back after they fix something will help someone else in the future!
 
She’s up and running! Had to dremel off the seized nut and was pretty sure I wasn’t going to be able to do it but victory! Thanks to everyone here for the help. Cheers! -Jon

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Sorry for the incorrect info I posted above. For some odd reason I was under the assumption the fuse block and terminal were all one piece....which is idiotic of me considering I started the “Big 3 Electrical Upgrade” thread and have spent my fair share of time disconnecting that terminal:bang:

Constructive advice:
I prefer to use dielectric grease (as opposed to that aerosol terminal protectant) on all battery terminals as well as ALL grounding points (battery, the two engine grounds, in-cabin grounds like under the dash, etc.). IMHO it provides the absolute best protection for all those components especially if you do a lot of water crossings (or have a leaking sunroof/windshield that drips down the DS a pillar) Just my $0.02 but look into it! This is what I prefer to use because I have so many wires going to my battery. It has a narrow tip so what I do is apply some on the battery terminal itself, terminal connectors, and between each layer of acc. ring terminals (winch, lights, etc.). Once I tighten everything up I apply a semi-liberal amount over everything.

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It amazes me that you haven't had charging troubles before now. My 2001 LX - Alt S fuse gets the smallest bit of corrosion on the fuse contacts then my alternator starts putting out a full 16v. I changed out 3 alternators before I realized what was causing it.

Then I cleaned my Alt-S fuse contacts with DeOxIt and then a little bit of silicon jell. So far no more problems but, it has only been about a month, so I am still keeping an eye on it. I might add that my battery posts were tight and connections were spotless!
Thank you for this! I just put in a new alternator, new alternator plug and have a new battery. Was still getting the intermittent battery light and surge and checked the Alt-S fuse. Tested good but was fairly stuck in there. Cleaned the fuse and the connections with electrical cleaner and it hasn’t surged since! Time will tell. But this saved me. Thank you
 
I wanted to replace my +terminal end piece because it fits pretty loosely on the battery no matter how much I tighten it, however I'm having trouble removing this nut:
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Does anyone have tips/tricks to remove this nut if its seized up pretty tight? I'm having a hard time holding that plastic box assembly in place while generating enough torque on the wrench to loosen the nut. I already drenched it in PB blaster.
 
Find a buddy with an impact gun for the nut and you'll need to hold/stabilize the right side with a large vise-grip or something. Or, a cutoff wheel/grinder to remove the nut.... maybe grind down the underside so as to not damage terminal.
 

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