Positive Battery Terminal Help

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May 3, 2017
San Antonio, TX
I was running a new power line for my fridge plug and stumbled across this issue. I have only had this vehicle 6 months so I do not know when the battery was installed. The positive terminal was not tight on the battery. It appears the battery posts may have been too small. There was a plastic piece that prevented the clamp from closing all the way onto the post.
The black plastic piece sits between the terminal ends and it is sandwiched. It prevents them from tightening up. I removed that piece and it seems to be holding tight. Is this an issue with an incorrect battery size or a worn out and stretched terminal? The battery is an Interstate labeled MTP-27F. The problem I have now is I cannot remove that nut that goes from the fuse box to the terminal. I tried WD40 but it is stuck good. I do not see an easy way to remove this without causing problems. Any new terminal I install would require this nut to be removed.
That nut you're trying to loosen, tap on the top with a hammer as you try and loosen it with a box wrench.
You cannot apply heat to it unless you remove the battery from the truck because of the risk of the battery exploding.
If you leave the thermal hooked to the battery until you break that nut loose you'll have more leverage.
An impact would zip it off. If you don't have one, spray some penetrating lube on it and wait a little. Then put a box wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer. And what Spike555 said, leave the terminal connected to the battery to make it easier.
Be careful with too much twisting force around the battery terminal, case can crack. Worst case, drill it out
Take it to literally any shop any where and tell them to impact it off for you (throw them a $10 for the inconvenience) and then tighten it just enough to get you back home where you can then completely disassemble it with no trouble
Thanks guys!! I feel like an idiot. I couldn't get much leverage due to the loose terminal and I hadn't even thought of my impact. I went out this morning and using my 18V Makita 1/4" impact I popped it right off and installed my 12V wire. I still may change the terminal because it seems it may be worn but I have cranked it down enough to hold tightly.
Make sure to get an OEM terminal. Those aftertermarket terminals are UGLY. ALso buy the terminal proctector cover form the dealer.

Positive terminal: 9098205035
Do you see the black plastic retainer on that one? I had to remove it from my current terminal to allow it to clamp to the battery. Do you think my terminal is just stretched or my battery is too small?
Yes, I noticed that. It could be both. Some batteries have small post but lately I never came across such a battery. In 2016 I replaced all 3 batteries in all my 3 toyota's (one OEM toyota and 2 from Walmart) and still using the Toyota positive battery terminals. All snug and tight. Make sure you don't over tight the terminals. This is what causing the terminals to stretch. I replaced all the batteries at home knowing the tech's at shops just don't care.
I just got mine back from the dealer a month ago, and have been slow to post.

I've done a lot of basic things to my '99 LX470, including replacing the battery and alterntor last May (2016). Then the CEL came on and took it to have it checked out: alternator. Figured it was a bad auto parts one, but had the lifetime warranty, so planned to replace it.

The thought of the same thing going wrong again in 16 months wasn't sitting well, and decided to "splurge" and take it to the local Toyota dealer.

$1300 later, had a new alternator AND battery harness. Come to find out (had a chance to talk to the mechanic), the terminal had stretched and was loose on the battery post, burning the $400 battery harness (was told there are only a dozen or so in the States) plus labor (part #82122-60351). I looked online, but no one makes these. He mentioned issues about imports and grounding may have also contributed to the system "trying" to find a route to ground.

Anyway, spend the extra $30 (dealer, cheaper online) and save yourself some grief. And get the OEM. Learned a valuable lesson at the school of hard knocks. Wife says I have a Master's from that place :bang:.

Or drop that lame OEM terminal and add some Mil-Spec beef.


Or drop that lame OEM terminal and add some Mil-Spec beef.
I will update this thread with photos by the end of the week with the new factory terminal. I looked at the Mil-Spec but I could not find a copper piece like that. Did you make that or are they commercially available?
I will update this thread with photos by the end of the week with the new factory terminal. I looked at the Mil-Spec but I could not find a copper piece like that. Did you make that or are they commercially available?

I made my own with some copper stock. Slee sells an aluminum adapter that accomplishes the same thing.

Page 18 of my build thread shows in detail what I did. The link is in my signature. However, any solid conductive material will work fine. Just make sure the thickness is up to the task to handle the voltage and amps. A decent piece of aluminum angle would be ideal then you wouldn't have to make the bend that I did with the copper. In reality it is VERY simple to convert.
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