I finally got some extra photos.
This was the original Lexus Link overhead console. I believe in other/older models, this is a sunglass holder. I pulled the buttons for the lexus link, taped it up to keep from shorting and stuffed it in the overhead console. You have to keep the buttons/board plugged in or you will get an announcement saying to visit a dealer each time you start the vehicle.
Next I had to get through the firewall to run all the wires. I got some help with this from
@savirc and
@Brian Waag (Thanks guys!)
The threaded bolt was used as one of two mounting locations for the variable steering computer. I was hesitant about losing it at first but decided there was no other way. I used pliars to pull off the stud which created a small hole in the firewall. I then used a stepbit to get the hole to 1-1/4" for the daystar boot I purchased off of amazon.
I had to cut the same hole in the bracket for the computer. It worked out well.
Next came running all the wires. I had to take apart a lot of the interior to do this. I had to remove the sun visor, overhead console, driver seatbelt, A-pillar lining, both grab handles, and the B-pillar trim on the driver side.
From the overhead console, I ran 5 wires from the 5 switches. The power for the switches came from the map light power wire and the ground was a random bolt for the sunroof motor.
Then ran the wires down the A-pillar
After replacing the overhead console with the new switches
Then I had to run the wires through the firewall. I wanted to have all the wires ran through using the mesh covering. So coming through the firewall are 5 wires from the switches, 1-12 gauge wire for the roof lights, and 1-16 gauge wire for the rear lights.
Then I had to wire up some relays. I bought 4 waterproof relays/harnesses. I couldn't find a good spot to screw them so I used zipties to strap them near the battery. I like it since I can easily remove them and add more relays later.
Here are the crapton of connectors for the relays. I had to use a diode for the switch wire for the roof lights and rear lights (see crappy schematic above).
Then i ran the wiring to the bluesea fusebox. Again, I had a hard time finding a place I liked to mount it. I found the distribution box form the positive terminal fit it perfectly. I used a couple metal style zip ties to strap the fuse box to the distribution box. Its super secure. I also needed some heavy gauge wire so I bought a cheap ($24) amp wiring kit from walmart and used the 8 gauge positive and negative wires and inline fuse.
Next step was to run the 12 guage and 16 gauge wires to the roof. I ran them with switch wires up the A-pillar then along the roof under the headliner. I then had to feed them through one of the unused roof rack bolt holes. I also ran my wire for the RTT power and awning power. It was super tight. All and all, I got 1-12 gauge, 1- 16 gauge, and 2-18 gauge wires through the bolt hole. Theres no way you could get more through.
Next I mounted up the 6 lights on the roof. Here comes my biggest complaint about my Gamaviti rack. The little bracket holes I had added to the expo bars where I bolted the lights was kind of ridiculous. Its impossible to get any tool on the backside because of how close the hole is to the bars. I ended up having to hold the backside bolt with a pair of pliars then twist the lights/bolt until it got tight. In doing that, I pulled off a bunch of powdercoating, which brings me to my second complaint. My rack is rusting all over because of how bad the powdercoating is. Its beginning to rust in the crevices where the mounting platform meets the bars. It scrapes off with a fingernail too. I would probably think twice about having them powdercoat it if I still lived in the NE.
I also just mounted up the free LED lightbar I got from Gamaviti at HIH6 (Thanks Tim!)
A nice added bonus that I didn't expect. Since I wired the switches to the map lights, The switch panel is active when I unlock the doors and doesn't shut off until a bout 20 seconds after locking the door. What that means is i can leave the roof lights on and when I lock the doors with the remote, they will auto shut off after 20 seconds. Then when I come back and unlock the doors with the remote, the lights kick back on.
This was a tough install. Took a long time to complete all the wiring. I would guess at least 24 hours of working. Let me know if anyone has questions.
