Raised shock mounts

[Mr.Bryan]

Again, I don't know anything and am completely taking out my a$$. There are other in this community that may know better.

No, you're correct. The biggest issue you're going to run into is the radius arms binding. You can continue to throw longer shocks at it which will help but geometry is always going to be an issue. You can 3-link it which makes a huge difference. I plan on going a different route next year which is going to be a play on the radius arm and a combination of johnny joints to decrease the bind. Having a dedicated trail rig vs a DD is going to make a big difference too. All depends on where you want to go with it.

As far as the rear goes, same sort of thing. You can get more down travel by putting longer shocks on but you'll run into geometry issues as well and you're going to start dropping springs once you get close to that 30" mark (at least with OME springs)

 

[GW Nugget]

Kevin your build is coming along... you should put it all in one place to keep it organized. The transformation of Kevin8086's lc80 comes to mind.
Any lift past the threshold of 3 inches of lift will start altering the geometry of an 80 series, but 4" of lift seems to be the sweet spot for 315s up. Any lift past this point will cost more money to correct like drive vibs, panhards, control arm & tie rod bind etc. with a J lift plus 2" MT you are at approx. 5.5" of lift lightly loaded. @Tools R Us I believe is running this combo (850J plus 2" MT style spacer) on his Lx450 & is a veteran 80 series owner.

 

[Tools R Us]

We optimize, tune the rear travel by making spacer blocks for the upper mount. Size depends on need, differs depending on setup.

 

[Dragos80]

Kevin your build is coming along... you should put it all in one place to keep it organized. The transformation of Kevin8086's lc80 comes to mind.
Any lift past the threshold of 3 inches of lift will start altering the geometry of an 80 series, but 4" of lift seems to be the sweet spot for 315s up. Any lift past this point will cost more money to correct like drive vibs, panhards, control arm & tie rod bind etc. with a J lift plus 2" MT you are at approx. 5.5" of lift lightly loaded. @Tools R Us I believe is running this combo (850J plus 2" MT style spacer) on his Lx450 & is a veteran 80 series owner.

There is no need for bump stops at 4" or above?

 

[Kevin8086]

Kevin your build is coming along... you should put it all in one place to keep it organized. The transformation of Kevin8086's lc80 comes to mind.
Any lift past the threshold of 3 inches of lift will start altering the geometry of an 80 series, but 4" of lift seems to be the sweet spot for 315s up. Any lift past this point will cost more money to correct like drive vibs, panhards, control arm & tie rod bind etc. with a J lift plus 2" MT you are at approx. 5.5" of lift lightly loaded. @Tools R Us I believe is running this combo (850J plus 2" MT style spacer) on his Lx450 & is a veteran 80 series owner.

Yup that's me. Kevin8086
I'm trying to clear the 37s without cutting and that's why I went with the 2" mt spacer. I'll have it in 3/4 weeks. Right now I can't turn and hit bumpers with 37s and js with a 30mm packer. The rear seems to have plenty of flex but the front is lacking a little bit I do think I'm hitting my lower arms on the tie rod.
The rears I have all adjustable metal tech uppers and lowers.
I'm going to try this for now and see what happens. If not I'll go back to where I was and do some trimming

 

[Kevin8086]

Kevin your build is coming along... you should put it all in one place to keep it organized. The transformation of Kevin8086's lc80 comes to mind.
Any lift past the threshold of 3 inches of lift will start altering the geometry of an 80 series, but 4" of lift seems to be the sweet spot for 315s up. Any lift past this point will cost more money to correct like drive vibs, panhards, control arm & tie rod bind etc. with a J lift plus 2" MT you are at approx. 5.5" of lift lightly loaded. @Tools R Us I believe is running this combo (850J plus 2" MT style spacer) on his Lx450 & is a veteran 80 series owner.

I also have a part time kit and double D.C. drive shafts

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

There is no need for bump stops at 4" or above?

 

[Kevin8086]

There is no need for bump stops at 4" or above?

No need for bump stops up front with 37s? I'm confused

 

[Kevin8086]

There is no need for bump stops at 4" or above?

I def hit up front wt J springs and 30mm packers on my 37s. Maybe it's due to the 17x9 -38
They stick out pretty far

 

[Kevin8086]

Here's a few shots

 

[Kevin8086]

Rear spring is def very captive and could droop a little more. Front isn't quite on the bump stops yet and that's with 2" extension. It's about 2" away from hitting in that pic on the left front but I think my control arm is already hitting the tie rod anyway
Tire rubs the back of the front fender when turning and hitting a bump.

 

[chap79]

Do you have your front sway bar hooked up? If so, disconnect it and try your ramp again to see where the tires rub.

 

[Kevin8086]

Do you have your front sway bar hooked up? If so, disconnect it and try your ramp again to see where the tires rub.

No sway bar. Have quick disconnect

 

[GW Nugget]

No need for bump stops up front with 37s? I'm confused

37s with uncut fenders will need approx 2.5" of bump stop exstension. If you cut the outer edge of your fender & pie cut the inner fender you can reduce the bump stop exstension to approx 1.5" to get back 2" of uptravel lost by going from 35s to 37s.
I'm currently running .5" bump stop exstension, 1" body lift & cut fenders on my Lx450 with 37s. In the rear I have 2" bump exstension with the 1" body lift with L shocks. I have no swaybar up front.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

37s with uncut fenders will need approx 2.5" of bump stop exstension. If you cut the outer edge of your fender & pie cut the inner fender you can reduce the bump stop exstension to approx 1.5" to get back 2" of uptravel lost by going from 35s to 37s.
I'm currently running .5" bump stop exstension, 1" body lift & cut fenders on my Lx450 with 37s. In the rear I have 2" bump exstension with the 1" body lift with L shocks. I have no swaybar up front.

▲An excellent rule of thumb▲ Also consider actual tire, rim width, and offset can result in slight variation of the above.

 

[Kevin8086]

37s with uncut fenders will need approx 2.5" of bump stop exstension. If you cut the outer edge of your fender & pie cut the inner fender you can reduce the bump stop exstension to approx 1.5" to get back 2" of uptravel lost by going from 35s to 37s.
I'm currently running .5" bump stop exstension, 1" body lift & cut fenders on my Lx450 with 37s. In the rear I have 2" bump exstension with the 1" body lift with L shocks. I have no swaybar up front.

I am really hoping to stay away from a body lift but who knows. May do it one day. For right now I want to go wheel these 37s

 

[Mr.Bryan]

No need to body lift. You're not in a jeep.

 

[Kevin8086]

This is great info guys!!
That info should be a sticky so nobody has to read through hours and hours of what to do and old or bad information.

 

[baldilocks]

Watching this thread because I'm about to step up to 37" TrXus real soon. Looks good Kevin.

 

[Kevin8086]

Watching this thread because I'm about to step up to 37" TrXus real soon. Looks good Kevin.

Are you going to cut the fenders or what's your plan? This would all be easier if I just cut the fenders. Lol instead I'm going to raise the truck higher, goo off-roading and either roll or feel too uneasy about how high the truck is and tippy it feels and decide to lower it and cut the fenders. That's how I see my future anyway.
Will probably have MT 2" cool spacers for sale soon. Lol
But maybe I'll enjoy the extra rock slider and bumper clearances.