Raised shock mounts (4 Viewers)

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I'm debating if I should cancel my 2" metal tech spacers for the front springs. It will be adding about an inch more than what I have now and not sure what that's going to do to the control arm to tie rod clearance or create any other issues.
 
You won't have anymore tie rod clearance issues than you do now. By adding the spacer you are subtracting from your available down travel. If you lift the chassis to what this change would be via floor jack/jack stands does the tie rod contact the arms?
 
You won't have anymore tie rod clearance issues than you do now. By adding the spacer you are subtracting from your available down travel. If you lift the chassis to what this change would be via floor jack/jack stands does the tie rod contact the arms?
Not sure, I'll need to find some boards and jack it up to see. Guess I'll need to make shock mount brackets if I do add them so I get Back the shock travel since these space the bump stops down when adding them
 
You won't have anymore tie rod clearance issues than you do now. By adding the spacer you are subtracting from your available down travel. If you lift the chassis to what this change would be via floor jack/jack stands does the tie rod contact the arms?
Ah, I got ya. That makes sense now. These also lower the bump stops 2" so i lose up travel and down travel is lost due to being that much closer to my available fully extended length.
So yes, I should cancel my order. Lol
 
Why space shock mounts down? I'm missing something here.

My logic for raising shock mounts is an increase in the possible maximum open shock length, which frees up more down travel.
Raised shock mounts makes room for the longer closed length of a long shock without reducing up travel and without bottoming out the shock.

My rig is low and stable (2" lift) with travel equivalent of your off the shelf 4-5" lift or better. It just needs a better quality shock under it.


We're on the same page. This is my thought process. Adding more actual shock travel vs just more down on an already extended suspension.
 
I changed my order to the 1.5" spacers and will just run a 1" bump stop on top of that. This will give me 2.5" of bump stop and put me right at the fender whe compressed and trying to turn.
So it'll just go up in front 13mm ish from where this is at now.

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Think how easy it would have been to cut the fenders... :hillbilly:
 
How does adding a 1.5" spacer lift you only 13mm?
 
How does adding a 1.5" spacer lift you only 13mm?
I have 30mm packers on it now but half of the top of the first coil recesses into the rubber and the rubber may be a little worn. So Im just guessing the packers are about 25mm and the 1.5" metal spacers are 38mm so I came up with 13mm.
 
I have 30mm packers on it now but half of the top of the first coil recesses into the rubber and the rubber may be a little worn. So Im just guessing the packers are about 25mm and the 1.5" metal spacers are 38mm so I came up with 13mm.
Oh ok. As I said a couple days ago, I'm prepping for the move to 37's also. Since The majority of my wheeling is low speed, my plan is to lower bumpstops as needed and gain back some down travel with the Dobinson 4" "flexi" progressive coils and their 6" lift shocks. 4" of up travel should be sufficient for my needs. Who knows, I may end up with more than that without major fender surgery. Minor fender alterations are not out of the question at this point though.

I took measurements before I removed the stock suspension. Toyota dialed in 3" up and 6" down, basically, in the front and rear was similar. 6" up is not necessary unless you will be sprinting your pig across the desert.
 
Oh ok. As I said a couple days ago, I'm prepping for the move to 37's also. Since The majority of my wheeling is low speed, my plan is to lower bumpstops as needed and gain back some down travel with the Dobinson 4" "flexi" progressive coils and their 6" lift shocks. 4" of up travel should be sufficient for my needs. Who knows, I may end up with more than that without major fender surgery. Minor fender alterations are not out of the question at this point though.

I took measurements before I removed the stock suspension. Toyota dialed in 3" up and 6" down, basically, in the front and rear was similar. 6" up is not necessary unless you will be sprinting your pig across the desert.
Ya I only do low speed stuff. I run into binding issues already up front at it is. I do love how the 37s feel rolling over things. I've been driving over ramps and cubs in big commercial area and it feels like mere pebbles. I'm very happy so far.
 
Ya I only do low speed stuff. I run into binding issues already up front at it is. I do love how the 37s feel rolling over things. I've been driving over ramps and cubs in big commercial area and it feels like mere pebbles. I'm very happy so far.
The binding can be helped out by lowering the radius arm frame mount an inch or two. Even with castor plates, my castor is deficient so this would kill two birds with one stone.
Check out the front flex member @Apounder got with stock arms and bushings and lowered frame brackets. His were cut and welded.
 
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Check out this thread. How much up travel do you think this bad boy has? Not much up but tons of down. I see that he finally abandon the radius arms in favor of serious flex.

@Apounder
 
A good inexpensive 1" front bump stop is a hockey puck. Just drill a 3/8 hole in the center and bolt it on. Can also be easily added to as needed.
 
View attachment 1451939 Check out this thread. How much up travel do you think this bad boy has? Not much up but tons of down. I see that he finally abandon the radius arms in favor of serious flex.

@Apounder
Ya he also seems to have a high steer kit as well. Once I get my rubbing at bay and nothing binding up badly I'll be happy where I'm at. I don't want my truck to become not fun to drive on the highway. It'll still do 80 right now no problem and no vibration
 
@baldilocks you might consider moving the axle forward a wee bit when you lower the aft control mount. (Should of kept those MAF brackets Eh?)

@Kevin8086 I believe you made a good choice with the 1.5" MT brackets... it will take a bit of stinkbug out of the rig also. You can always but in you 863 & take out the MT brackets later if you decide to go lower in lift. Also with the wider stance of the 3.5" BS 9" wheels you just might still need trim the outer fender a wee bit also.

Apounder has the Ruff Stuff front chevy tie rod kit. He did have amazing flex with stock control arms, but he also had 14" shocks, heavy tires & most likely shot bushings, but still was amazing.

Front bump stops... I have seen body lift pucks online for as cheap as $4 bucks...but I do have a bunch of hockey pucks on my toolbox...
 

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