rain gutter rust repair help

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Call CDan!

Man, why is it that I can not be anywhere were a toyota dealership gives discounts....

You should call CDan - he always hooks us up w/ a good discount and shipping hasn't been bad! don't have # handy, but it's all over the place if you search.

GL!

rob
 
So I too am now faced with the fun gutter sealer repair task. With a Conferr rack that can get heavy during trips I am wondering if there is an optimal sealer that it will be under stress from the rack gutter clamps. I was thinking of the 3M Seam sealer but am looking for some feedback before I commit the gutter. Thanks
 
When painting my '87 '60 two years ago, we cleaned the gutters thoroughly and then flooded the gutters with POR-15. We then topped the roof and gutters with Rhino-Liner. Structuraly, it seems to be working great...I abuse the gutters changing out Wilderness and Yakima racks and nothing is coming loose yet. Only problem is that the Red Rhino-Liner has faded to a pale pink.
 
Hi!
First a short introduction: Stephan, Middle of Germany, since 2012 owner of a '84 HJ60.

And now my problem:

After removing a lot of paint and body filler the real face of my roof appeared. It looks terrible. I got the chance to buy a complete used roof in a good and rust free shape. The seller just cut the pillars. But know I'm not sure how to continue the restauration.

First I could also cut my pillars and weld the "new" roof on my landcruiser. Seems to be easy but how to cut the pillars that the windows and doors will fit after the welding?

2nd way: Separating both top roofs, renew the bottom roof with metal sheets and weld the "new" top roof on the car. Problem: How to separate the top roofs? After a short test I got buckles on the top and bottom roof.

3rd way: Cutting different worse parts out of the cars. The last part of the outer face of the top roof incl. the rain gutter and the top of the body sheet. To make it waterproof I would push the "new" part under the top roof by using welding points and glue.

What is your recommendation?




Greeting Stephan
 
On an FJ55 I had, a local shop said that you cut the posts in the middle and sleeve them, and weld it all back together. Very time consuming and expensive to have done professionally. I'm not sure the posts were cut very favorably on your salvage roof, but it might still work. You would have to test fit all the doors and windows as you went along, to be sure they continued to fit as designed.

You would never have the strength of the original roof, but then again, your 'original roof' isn't as strong as it once was!
 
I just noticed paint bubbling right above my gutter today, and now I'm scared.

I do not want to find a mess underneath....
 
if you remove the chrome strip,do you need to treat the edges with anything. i use a roof rack alot during the warmer weather,if this makes a difference. but i don't take the rack on/off frequently either. thanks
 
No, you can pull the chrome trim right off and leave the bare gutter. If you are showing bare metal, hit with some color-matched paint or at least a few coats of clear coat.
 
I also have a rust problem close to the gutters, I've got 6 spots in which I will be fixing

5b45b8d7923513b1d46f24f7b2e91b6e_zps6f49fb5b.jpg

93fc5cf9a40f73730db3e583576431e4_zps2cb8b009.jpg

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I have decided not to try and weld this and will be repairing it with a glass fibre filler, due to the flexibility of this filler they reckon it will fill holes up to 2 inches.

So I'll try this first :cheers:
 
Hi! First a short introduction: Stephan, Middle of Germany, since 2012 owner of a '84 HJ60. And now my problem: After removing a lot of paint and body filler the real face of my roof appeared. It looks terrible. I got the chance to buy a complete used roof in a good and rust free shape. The seller just cut the pillars. But know I'm not sure how to continue the restauration. First I could also cut my pillars and weld the "new" roof on my landcruiser. Seems to be easy but how to cut the pillars that the windows and doors will fit after the welding? 2nd way: Separating both top roofs, renew the bottom roof with metal sheets and weld the "new" top roof on the car. Problem: How to separate the top roofs? After a short test I got buckles on the top and bottom roof. 3rd way: Cutting different worse parts out of the cars. The last part of the outer face of the top roof incl. the rain gutter and the top of the body sheet. To make it waterproof I would push the "new" part under the top roof by using welding points and glue. What is your recommendation? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/25779497/DSC00572.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/25779497/DSC00576.jpg Greeting Stephan

I hate to say it mate but it looks like its time for a new cruiser.

I don't know how rare 60's are in Germany but without being stereotypical or racist I'd imagine the Germans aren't real keen on Japanese vehicles especially older models so I'm guessing a replacement is off the cards.

Sooooo I'd recommend cutting the donor pillars a bit closer to the roof to maintain pillar strength even to to extreme to grinding adjacent to the existing roof to pillar joint and then attach the new roof. Be sure you are extremely confident with the welder and be prepared for extensive body shaping work to get it looking and acting good. Otherwise give it to your local body shop and they shouldn't have any problems stitching it on.

Welcome to mud!
 
Today I cut off the rusty parts of the roof. At the moment I've no exspectations to find the perfect way of the repair. I change my mind hourly ... version no. 4: just close the holes with steel plates and weld a trimed plate on it.

A new cruiser? No. I bought the HJ60 just for repairs. The first step was the inspection sticker which I got in december and now ... difficult question :cool:

2014-01-23-17.53.webp
 
Hi Stephan, a new roof maybe a bit difficult to weld, you can only weld around the pillars and the windows have to be replaced.
The picture above is better , first cut the rust out and then decide what to do.
Like my hj also has/had rust and the goal is to get a road licence and drive a lot!, so weld and drive, I keep the wheels on to make sure I can drive it, sometimes the paint is wet when I get the kids from school!


Crick the Germans are like other people and they like all cars, just look at this hj61 on a German forum, plenty of them in Germany.

http://forum.buschtaxi.org/meinen-hj61-gefunden-t37706.html?hilit=Gefunden Italien
 
HJ60

Thanks for that link mate, that HJ61 is awesome, just looking at the seats in that truck has given me an excellent idea, as my drivers seat is torn where you get in and out, I'm going to get an upholsterer to put sow those leather/vinyl inserts on my seats :)

Little bit off topic, but excellent find:)
 
I sanded my roof back today, to have a look how bad the holes would be, this is the worst of mine and fortunately for me it's nowhere near as bad as yours :grinpimp:

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I'm looking forward to seeing the after pics from yours
 
Crick the Germans are like other people and they like all cars, just look at this hj61 on a German forum, plenty of them in Germany.

Yeah perhaps a poor choice of words on my behalf. I meant I wouldn't think there would be a great deal of old Toyota's in Germany especially cruisers and even less because of the caliber of German vehicles in the market.
In Australia VW and it's subsidiaries are beginning to dominate the market and have all but knocked the hilux off its perch.

Any who a wild though occurs...I've never seen a 60 without gutters....it would really remove the rust trap.
 
Thanks Harz, interesting photos and looks like a good result.
 
As to the OP and the POR references and all the current work, harz, spudman, etc., I am currently reduxin my gutters. Started with the FAQ, which btw is :censor:great. So, I found the very beginnings of what yall are dealing with in my gutters. But, being as I would like to avoid what you have on your hands I delved into POR. It is intended to eliminate the occurence/recurrence of rust, though preparation is the key according to the "non"-directions below. The Marine Clean & Metal-Prep solutions are quite a bit cheaper than the POR itself, $9/4oz., $30/pint, $50/qt. 4oz. is about 10sq/ft. @ 1 coat. Clean, Prep, POR a few coats, rough the final coat, primer/paint, rough, seam sealant, prime/paint/clear. But from what I can tell, which may be worth nothing, POR looks like the right stuff if you love your cruiser and you don't want to do it again. I mean, no one gets out alive, right? Just sayin'.:beer:

Check out the "Directions for people that don't read directions" and the explaination about steel manufacture that should raise any eyebrow::hhmm:

qr.absolutecoatings.com/QR-assets/.../POR15/POR-NoReadDirections.pdf

And, the 3M Urethane Seam Sealer listed in the FAQ is also available in a 1/10 gallon tube that fits a standard caulk gun and is considered an OEM replacement. There are also 3M pads of varying grits for cleaning/scuffing prior to application that are specifically called for. I picked up a 4"×6"pad for $5 @ NAPA that will do all the seams I know about on he truck. Also a great pad for cleaning gasket surfaces.

Btw, props to ya harz and spudman for taking it on, its bigger than it looks. Way bigger.

Harz, if you have all that rust up there on top, then where did the salt-laden moisture that caused your problem, and has consequently continued to drain into the cruiser, go? Are your floorboards, rockers panels, and/or pillars compromised? Looks like some DEEP inventory should be taken there, eh?. Have you pulled up the carpet or removed the inner trim verticals to see behind and verify the structural sanctity of the upper chassis, and not just the roof? But, hey, a good welder can change the world, right?
:popcorn:
C
 

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