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rain gutter rust repair help

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by iron_giant, Aug 4, 2005.

  1. iron_giant

    iron_giant GOLD Star SILVER Star

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    Here again...
    I finally took off the tradesman roof rack to see how the gutter is. Keep in mind this is a high roof from Japan- it all looked good but for one spot, approximately 12 inches long. I've done some basic panel rust repair but I'm not sure how to tackle this one. The rust has gone through the outer roof steel and has just barely touched the inner steel. it is about a half inch from the gutter extending upward about another half inch. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    -david

    i tried to post pics but my computer is too slow.
    100_0749.JPG 100_0749.JPG
     
  2. chitown40

    chitown40

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    First of all, I would remove the gutter chrome, as that contributes to the rust in the gutters, but obviously yours is above the gutter line. Looks to me like you can cut out the bad area and weld new steel relatively easily since you have a nice straight line about 6in above the gutter to work with. Once you get the outer steel cut out, survey the extend of the rust and if it's just surface rust, grind it down and treat is with some naval jelly or other acid etching product past the edge of the affected area. Then you can go ahead and make the repair. You can also use fiberglass, but I think new metal would be nicer in the long run if you're going to keep the rig for a long time.
     
  3. scarper

    scarper

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    You have got yourself some nasty rust there I reckon, trust me I know, I had it on mine. That rust will be travelling along under the sealant that is in the gutter and in the pinch weld that holds the roof on.

    Ya won't see it untill ya start excavating.
     
  4. TopJimmie

    TopJimmie

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    I had the same problem paint started to bubble so I figured it would be quick fix to grind it down and repaint, boy was I wrong. turned out the whole section from where the gutter was to the top where it turns over was pretty much rusted out. the PO had, can you believe this, stuck newpaper in the void and bondo'd the whole area on both the right and left side. I went to town with the grinder and welded new metal in. It was really tricky around the corners to get that to look right. But had to be done, otherwise I would eventually have to replace the whole roof. Just know there is probably a lot more rust than you can see on the surface. Funny seems to be that way people are as well. Good luck!
     
  5. scarper

    scarper

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    TopJimmie, sounds like your rust repair was the same as mine.

    I reckon there'd be a lot of cruisers with this sort of rust, seems to be the design.

    Most owners wouldn't even know how bad it is coz ya can't see it.
     
  6. TopJimmie

    TopJimmie

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    scarper,
    Definitely agree. Still in the process and almost done. Getting ready to spray the whole vehicle this weekend. I sanded and ground out the body of the whole vehicle while I was at it. My cruiser when new had some undercoating spray on the frame and undercarriage so there is still none to very little rust here, but the body has taken me some work for sure.
     
  7. gnx7

    gnx7

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    The roof of my rig looks the same. I'm taking it in for paint in about 2-3 weeks and am expecting them to give me some more bad news once they start prepping it. Rust to some bodyshops will stop them from wanting to do the work. Luckily my painter is a friend of my cousin's.

    Tackle that rust... it only gets worse.
     
  8. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    So, barring pulling the headliner and exposing the rear of the new metal welded in, how do you deal with the raw metal that will pose it's own issues a number of years down the road?

    I've often wonder this when new metal is welded into place, as any primer that was in place on the inside will be burned off, and if you can not get in behind to protect the raw metal...

    Anyone had any experience with the new metal glues on the market these days?

    gb
     
  9. TopJimmie

    TopJimmie

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    Even if you pull the head liner you wouldn't be able to get to the outer most roof panel in most places, at least the rear anyway. The metal is double layered with about 1in space inbetween. I think the vents on the rear pillars were suppose to vent that area, but if you live in a wet climate, good luck. I POR'd the back side, but I am not sure you can ever totally get rid of or fend off rust forever. Luckily I live in a pretty dry climate. Hopefully it will give me a few years.
     
  10. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    Ya, I figured a flexible wand might suffice...most have 3'-4' flexible tubbing before the tip, for spraying wax oils into tough to reach areas.

    I wonder if cutting, exposing, protecting, and gluing patch panels would be better.

    I've no idea, as I have no experience in this area...

    gb
     
  11. 3puttcop

    3puttcop

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    I had the same thing, highly common in areas of high humidity. I paid big bucks to have it cut out with a plasma torch to the seam, and patched with new steel. Then the gutter was re-sealed all around. Sprayed the undamaged underside with a teflon coating. I had lotsa rust under trim...will not replace chrome trim.
     
  12. daddyo

    daddyo

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    If you take care of all the visible stuff on the outside (top and bottom of the gutter), what else would you need to do?

    Take the headliner of and clean out from the inside?

    Andrew




     
  13. merbesfield

    merbesfield

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    tough rust repair

    Has anyone looked at the POR 15 products? I have a friend who swears by them and says they are amazing. I went to their web site and checked it out. It does look great. Your rust is nothing compared to mine. See picture. I was thinking about flooding the inner panels with the POR 15 product to help prevent rust on the inside before I attack the outside. My rig is beyond a high quality restoration so I am looking at the modern technology repairs that are out there today. I think with some welding and the POR15 stuff I can actually get this rusty Pig looking pretty good. No it will never be concours, but it will look good.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2006
  14. Southbound

    Southbound

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    As long as the roof and drip rails are structurally sound you could do a pretty easy fix with fiberglass putty. It's pretty bomber stuff - If it can be used to patch seagoing vessels it should work fine for keeping out some rain. But if the rust is so bad that there is any significant structural flex then the fiberglass might crack and you'd be better off welding in new metal.

    I wouldn't worry too much about the inner roof unless you live in a super humid environment. If not, there is no way for water to get back there. I just did some roof repair and just to be extra thorough I used weldthrough primer on both sides of the metal. The primer is designed to withstand the heat of welding and spreads instead of burning off. I was happy with the results. I can get you specific info if you need it.

    Also, I just tried some POR15 on my frame today. I don't know how it will turn out but I have to say I'm impressed with it so far. I've never seen any substance seem so willing and eager to seep into and bond with rusty metal.


    Mark
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2006
  15. merbesfield

    merbesfield

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    Southbound, let me know how the POR works for you. The pics i posted are really just the tip of the iceberg. i could only load two b/c my quota is full and i cant fingure how to delete or upload from already loaded pics.
     
  16. micnicholasj

    micnicholasj

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    the POR 15 works like they say in my applications so far. I work at a body shop, rust sucks a big one. they got some new stuff out now depending on the severity of you problem and if you want to paint over it and so on. check out cool cruisers
    POR-15, Frequently Asked Questions

    they sell the stuff and have a good description and application of their different projects. getting ready to us it on my fj60 after I weld in some quarter patches. I'm gonna use the clear colored por15 due to it's super slick finish so you can paint over it and get a good finish. I've used the original stuff, black on the floor and in the trunk of my 64 impala where the rear glass leaked, it turned out kinda grainy & textured but it doesn't show under the carpet and the trunk looks clean atleast. it wasn't rusted through or anything, surface stuff but bad. I knocked it down with a wire brush and hosed it on. i know it's been wet since and the rust still hasn't reappeared after 2 years. everyone I know is amazed at the stuff, we were way skeptical but seems good. hopefully it last. kinda pricey though but what else are you going to do.
     
  17. micnicholasj

    micnicholasj

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    error in last

    i meant Cool Cruisers has a good description and applications guide to their POR-15 products not projects.
     
  18. Southeast Overland

    Southeast Overland Supporting Vendor

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    Holy thread resurrection batman!
     
  19. sl33py

    sl33py

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    Good thread though. I wonder how it turned out?

    I am thinking of doing similar - taking care of some surface rust and priming for paint. I was hoping to find what is best to pull and reseal gutters. I've heard there is a roll in putty, or typical caulk.

    anyway - happy new years everyone!

    rob
     
  20. commostud

    commostud

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    Man, why is it that I can not be anywhere were a toyota dealership gives discounts....