Hey guys, I’m about to purchase my first land cruiser and it’s a 1984. It has some oil leaks as it looks from the pictures of the bottom side of the car. I want to know what gaskets I will need to replace, How hard are these to replace, and are they expensive? It also has 172k miles on it and is in pretty great condition from the pictures I’m seeing. Runs well. I’m looking at paying $13k for it, that seems right for one in this condition that has sold on eBay. It has also had an engine rebuild and has been repainted. It has one tiny bit of surface rust, but that’s it. Let me know what you guys think. Just want to hear what you guys think as you have much more knowledge on these cars! Let me know if you would like to see more pictures or more info on the car.
Questions on my first my first Fj60 1984 land cruiser that l’m about to buy (1 Viewer)
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Here are some more pictures
Outside looks fine enough. Looks like the owner wasn't too interested in what was going on under the hood. Looks like nothing has ever been touched. Definitely give it a full tune up according to the factory manual (don't leave out steps) AND CHECK THE VALVE CLEARANCES. Guaranteed they're tight.
Looks nice. Suspension is saggy and will need replacing. Surface rust all over underside that will need addressing but it doesn't look deep.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Engine was rebuilt? Looks pretty original and dirty to me, I'd be skeptical of that. Rear main and/or input shaft seal looks leak/wet, also potentially oil pan gasket. If a motor was rebuilt all of those items are replaced, otherwise its not considered rebuilt or even resealed. Transfer case is pretty wet by the output shaft. Another area for inspection.
Respray looks questionable, i'd knock around for bondo and look for wavy panels and inspect the crust around the wheel wells, looks uneven. Inspect all seams on body and below.
Mechanically the top half of motor looks clean, dry and original which is good, but won't know until a compression check is done. If it runs smooth, starts up at cold start well, I'd trust its alright for at least a while.
Leaks will happen and continue to happen. No matter the case, expect to spend a few grand over the next few months baselining it if it will be driven often.
Respray looks questionable, i'd knock around for bondo and look for wavy panels and inspect the crust around the wheel wells, looks uneven. Inspect all seams on body and below.
Mechanically the top half of motor looks clean, dry and original which is good, but won't know until a compression check is done. If it runs smooth, starts up at cold start well, I'd trust its alright for at least a while.
Leaks will happen and continue to happen. No matter the case, expect to spend a few grand over the next few months baselining it if it will be driven often.
Right, the fact that it was resprsyed warrants closer inspection. Look at that photo inside the drivers door. At the bottom of the a pillar there is something that looks like rust poking through. That is not a good place for rust, if it is rust.
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I’m driving 6 hours to go check out this car (so I really hope there is no bondo. should I be deterred away if there is bondo? The car spent all its years in CA up until last year when the current owner bought it. So that would make it less likely that it would have rust damage that would have required bondo or a more permanent fix, correct?
The entire west coast of California is salt water with breaking waves creating salt air. The Air Force has a directive for aircraft within 5 miles of sea water: wash with fresh water once a week. Just because a car is from CA doesn't mean it's except from rust. If the cruiser lived near the beach, the steel is toasty
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
We don't know, not all of California is dry and arid. Considering your questions regarding bondo, I would probably try to get someone to go with you that has more knowledge. Essentially, bondo is OK when used sparingly, but usually bondo covers up dents, rust quickly and cheaply but falls apart over time, leaving you with the rust again or even more rust due to time. Sheet metal repair is the only way around it, but we can't tell the extent without seeing in person and inspecting panels. Some use magnets, others use paint depth meters, and ultimately, just looking at the panel will usually yield the answer. You can also tap with your knuckle to hear the difference between a good metal panel and one covered in bondo.
When you look at it, make sure the engine is completely cold, tell the seller that as well. Watch him start it cold. Then drive it as it warms up, you'll feel all the driveability issues that way. Run the heat, a/c (if it works). Check all the switches. Since it sounds like you don't have a strong mechanical background, try every button/switch and listen for sounds. Though again, mechanically it looks rather clean and original.
What's your past vehicle history like? Curious what you've owned leading up to this.
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I currently own a 2003 Toyota 4Runner. That has been my first and only car up until this point. I’ve always loved the land cruisers and my 4Runner is pretty beat up and makes some odd noises time to time (Still has been a very reliable and great car, I just want something nicer) Has 230,000 miles on it. I thought I might as well get another car that I thoroughly love, instead of buying some new car that will depreciate and not make me as happy.
Dont buy this as your DD. You are probably going to put around $7K in it (without upgrading to a 5 speed) to get the interior and all the bugs worked out mechanically. I dont know that of course, but am speaking from my experience buying one with a similar story and condition. If you plan to drive it back home get that galley plug fixed if it has not been already. Get AAA and you will have a list of stuff to fix in your head when you get back. Good looking truck, but the rust returning after being sprayed would be a concern. They are fun to work on, but just be prepared for a project.
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- #12
I really appreciate the advice, I may want to rethink this purchase. I was planning on making it my DD.
Have you ever driven a 60? They’re super fun trucks to take out on weekends and occasionally to work, but there’s no way in hell I would depend on mine to drive it every day reliably, and I have a very very nice low mileage 83.
Edit: I’m not saying don’t buy it. I’m saying don’t buy it to drive everyday thinking it’s going to better than a 4th gen 4Runner in any way whatsoever other than cool factor.
Edit: I’m not saying don’t buy it. I’m saying don’t buy it to drive everyday thinking it’s going to better than a 4th gen 4Runner in any way whatsoever other than cool factor.
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- #14
I haven’t driven one. I probably need to think this all through a little more lol. I just love Toyota’s especially the 80’s land cruisers
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Big deference from a fj60 and a fj80
They get like 10mpg. I am not mechanically inclined. I have made friends with folks from the forum and watched them swap a tranny for the H55 and ideally you either want to be mechanical enough to do stuff like that or make great $$ because a 60, unless bought from from someone who has already done the work, will need a good amount. I bought mine for $13 and spent that much getting it to where it is today. I trust it now, but would be an expensive DD. If I was as mechanically inclined as some of the folks on here I could have probably done the work for around $8K, including the upgrade to a 5 speed. I have more $$ than time and just dont have the background to do anything too deep into the engine. Mine is a cool weekend soccer dad car and one I take out to hunt with every few weeks. If I were you I would turn my attention to a 96,97 FJ80 and look for one that is triple locked. That will be my next purchase if I ever get rid of mine. Be patient and you can find one for what you were looking to spend on this one and will have a very capable, cool ride with some creature comforts. Wait until you can afford a hobby car before you move on a 60....JMO
I think he means 80’s as in 1980’s land cruisers.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I thought the same exact thing when I bought mine. Mine provides plenty of smiles per mile, but it spends a lot of time with the hood up. Mine is a daily driver and my only vehicle but requires several weeks in my garage getting work done every 3-6 months or so. Do not underestimate the toll this takes on your overall happiness(not to mention your wallet). Weighs on you.
You should definitely drive one before you ever think of buying one. They are totally different beasts to anything out there. Mine is a daily driver and my only vehicle. I drive it every day, so it can be done. Folks talk about the reliability of these trucks, but the state of parts availability makes them less reliable by the hour. They are super cool. But the cool will most likely be outweighed by the reality of owning one. Its not an easy own. I drive mine daily but couldn't get behind recommending that to someone. Right now I can barely walk from clutching in traffic after a week of daily driving it.
Also, don't let the high Ebay pricing fool you into thinking you have to pay through the nose for one of these. Remember they are just street legal tractors. I did not pay near 13K for mine and knowing what I know about it now, never would. They just are not worth it. Don't get me wrong, I love mine.....mostly, but it definitely tests my patience. I used to think "I'll get this cruiser and that's it I'll never sell it. My forever car". After 3 years of daily driving, I wouldn't turn down the right offer. Good luck in your search.
I was where you are a few months ago. I've recently moved beyond the "honeymoon phase" with my 60. Don't get me wrong, I love it and still can't believe I finally have one but I've come to realize it's not something you can "set and forget". I had plans of it being my DD, but at the last second decided not to sell my little Corolla. Glad I didn't because like @Robert Franzke said, mine has spent all week in the garage with the hood up as I try and knock out an unplanned carb rebuild. Not that it's overly difficult and their is a ton of support on MUD...it just takes time to learn when you're new to this stuff and trying to work it around life. Sometimes they're just grumpy and it's easier to drive something else that day.
I'd encourage to to go for it if you are really into it, but go in informed. Mine was very similar to yours, except that I tracked down the mechanic that worked on mine since 2012 and got copies of all the service records so I could put dates and milage to all the items mentioned above (rear main seals, knuckle re-builds, etc). Even with all that, I've had to spend some cash to address some things. Just things to consider when weighing out the potential effects on your lifestyle and overall position. Take a look (FJ60) if you want the longer version of what you might be looking at from the perspective of a non-car guy.
Having said all that, I did pick up a second one 6 weeks later. I may not be the best to take advice from.
