QUESTIONS: Cruiser Solutions Power Steering Conversion Kit (1 Viewer)

[Tony_Farson]

can you return the setup?

I can ask. I bought it back in Feb or March. What do you have in mind as a replaceent? FJ60, mini truck, or???

 

[3_puppies]

I can ask. I bought it back in Feb or March. What do you have in mind as a replaceent? FJ60, mini truck, or???

or someone like Mark who would give great customer service.

 

[Downey]

I'm thinking the "big aluminum block" is packing.

10-4, now that I took a second look.

 

[peesalot]

That kit looks complete minus the slip for the D shaft & a return hose for fluid.
The saginaw conversion is fine, look at lots of pics from builds/posts on the boards , that will give you lots of info.
X2 on having engine and exhaust in so you can get proper positioning of steering.
You dont necesarilly need gussets on the frame but it doesn't hurt, IIRC , Georg at valley hybrids has a premade gusset that you can weld on if you are concerned about cracking of the cross member.
Box positioning on the frame horn is also somewhat critical, depending on how high on the frame horn, how much tilt, & how shoved into the crossmember you mount box will effect the pitman arm position and steering shaft clearance on exhaust/engine mount. There is not a whole lot room to mount the box differently but those little details pay big dividends when sorted before installing.

The issue with box position is the pitman can hit the leaf spring at full turn to driver, also keeping the drag link level which saves the drag link ends from going beyond their travel limits if you have a flex suspension.

Dont cut the bib or run the hoses around the side, there is plenty of room to run them under the bib if you make the appropriate bends.

 

[Downey]

Regarding peesalot's last sentence above ^^^^^, look at my ebay #261702058064, 2nd and last photos, they show very righteous hose routing.

 

[SteveH]

Tony - you're asking excellent questions. One thing you might consider is fully installing the engine and exhaust before starting the PS conversion so that there's no chance of installing the steering bits and then discovering that the intermediate shaft rubs an exhaust manifold (so to speak).

 

[cult45]

Not trying to start sh!t but I'd return it and go for a 60 series power steering box. It's very common down here. I'm in the middle of setting up my 1970 [same steering column and box assembly as your 1968] for such a mod, albeit very slowly. If you'd like some more details on how to make the original column work and have almost all Toyota PS then tag me and I'll come back and lay out what we're doing.

Cheers,

Dan

 

[brew8]

I am a fan of Saginaw conversions, I don't care for that pump mount I use an air pump bracket slightly modified, much more stable. The guys that live in fear of a modified crossmember, should recall it already has holes in it, if you gusset it a little and have a strong bumper your all good.

 

[69LC]

Right! To go with what @SteveH and @cult45 said, you can and should intentionally engineer your mods so there isn’t later interference. That’s one major reason I vouch for the outside-frame boxes is for intermediate shaft rounting.

 

[65swb45]

Second what @SteveH posted about installing the engine first. It’s not a mod you want to do over again.

And second what @brew8 posted about ditching that pump mount. Compromising a head gasket so you can compromise your belt wrap is a double negative...that doesn’t make a positive. I offer a pump mount that fits where the F alternator or 2F air pump would go. It has more fore/aft adjustability than an air pump bracket, and I have a wide range adjuster bracket for it as well.

 

[1973Guppie]

as others have said the fj60 setup is a cleaner setup......