I have an old crappy one you can have for the core if there is one. that way you can keep your old one. I'm sure yours is in better shape than this one.
Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bad Mojo
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- Thread starter
- #222
Thanks, I should be okay though. I have a rebuild kit coming in from Dan along with a new master clutch. I want to rebuild my own so I can learn how to do it, and then I can have a trail spare. Fingers are crossed to get the new one tomorrow otherwise I have to wait till next week.
alia176
SILVER Star
You're going to run of space for your trail spares at this rate!
Then it will be time for him to buy an 80 and start filling it with trail spares.
-Mike-
Then it will be time for him to buy an 80 and start filling it with trail spares.
-Mike-
Ya, and he will need the size of an 80 to hold them all.
- Thread starter
- #226
I'll have to get creative I suppose. Hopefully there won't be many more trail spares coming about.
It will be a while before I even seriously think about buying an 80, but that doesn't mean I don't know how I would build it up. Like, drawers in the back for all its spare parts.
It will be a while before I even seriously think about buying an 80, but that doesn't mean I don't know how I would build it up. Like, drawers in the back for all its spare parts.
- Thread starter
- #227
Alright, so currently I have found a guy who has a some FJ40 parts who wants to trade for my rims. This is what he has: 1 jump seat with arm rest, 6cyl head and valve cover, door panels and blinkers for a 76 FJ, running boards, and a couple carbs. I know I want a second carb, so I can rebuild one and have at least one good one at all times. Is there anything else I should get? As of right now I am not planning on rebuilding my engine, because it isn't showing need of it, but I know at some point I know it will need to be rebuilt, will any of these parts make my life easier? Also what is fair price for these items?
Also if anyone needs some of these parts feel free to come with, I am meeting him this weekend, but I have first dibs.
Thanks
Also if anyone needs some of these parts feel free to come with, I am meeting him this weekend, but I have first dibs.
Thanks
Also if anyone needs some of these parts feel free to come with, I am meeting him this weekend, but I have first dibs.
Thanks
Since I am out of a 40 I don't need anything, except for a few things for more of an art project. My friend Dan that bought my 40 might be intersted, I can ask him. between the '71 with '76 parts and another 40 from '78 he might be intereseted. I can ask him.
- Thread starter
- #229
Let the Games Begin...Kinda
Alright, I am starting to get excited about this summer and taking down my 40 down to the frame even though that happens in over two months! But I already have parts coming in for it. For example, I have parts coming in for my aux tank and that is coming along nicely. My goal is over this next two months is to start collecting parts and figuring out how some issues before they hold me up when I am putting my car back together. Any suggestions to the mini projects below are more than welcome and if there are other things I need to start planning for.
Aux Gas Tank: This is the most unclear project to me. I don't know if I want a gravity feed, or a switched pump? Also is it possible to get both tanks to read off one gauge? I know where the tank is sitting and I have another gas tank door coming in the next couple of days. I know I have more reading to do on this.
York/PS Pump: How do I deal with the issue with the pulleys? Won't my belts wear funny is I don't use the proper pulleys? I have a FJ60 ps pump pulley and a smog pump pulley, but will those fit on? My other concern with the pulleys is I need a double stack pulley. I am running a saginaw pump because of the issues I have seen with Toyota pumps. My older post shows the york and PS pump together. The pulleys are my only problem right now. Besides the pulleys it is mostly running lines and making brackets. I also know about the yorks spitting oil and that I will need a filter.
Hand Throttle- Can I make one using an 80 or 60 series one? The reason I want a hand throttle is so I can bump up my rpm when I have my york running, and if I ever get a winch. I also looked at SOR and they don't carrier any for my year, but could I use an earlier year?
Body Work: I also know I have some body work coming on. I know there is some bondo and rust hiding underneath the paint. My sill and at least one quarter needs to be replaced. Is the thought still use CCOT?
My engine, transmission, and transfer case are being painted/powder coated. While I am in there, should I be replacing seals or any other PM? My engine has about 150,000 on it.
Electrical: I am working on what all I want to be in the vehicle, once I figure that out I will post up.
Thanks much.
Alright, I am starting to get excited about this summer and taking down my 40 down to the frame even though that happens in over two months! But I already have parts coming in for it. For example, I have parts coming in for my aux tank and that is coming along nicely. My goal is over this next two months is to start collecting parts and figuring out how some issues before they hold me up when I am putting my car back together. Any suggestions to the mini projects below are more than welcome and if there are other things I need to start planning for.
Aux Gas Tank: This is the most unclear project to me. I don't know if I want a gravity feed, or a switched pump? Also is it possible to get both tanks to read off one gauge? I know where the tank is sitting and I have another gas tank door coming in the next couple of days. I know I have more reading to do on this.
York/PS Pump: How do I deal with the issue with the pulleys? Won't my belts wear funny is I don't use the proper pulleys? I have a FJ60 ps pump pulley and a smog pump pulley, but will those fit on? My other concern with the pulleys is I need a double stack pulley. I am running a saginaw pump because of the issues I have seen with Toyota pumps. My older post shows the york and PS pump together. The pulleys are my only problem right now. Besides the pulleys it is mostly running lines and making brackets. I also know about the yorks spitting oil and that I will need a filter.
Hand Throttle- Can I make one using an 80 or 60 series one? The reason I want a hand throttle is so I can bump up my rpm when I have my york running, and if I ever get a winch. I also looked at SOR and they don't carrier any for my year, but could I use an earlier year?
Body Work: I also know I have some body work coming on. I know there is some bondo and rust hiding underneath the paint. My sill and at least one quarter needs to be replaced. Is the thought still use CCOT?
My engine, transmission, and transfer case are being painted/powder coated. While I am in there, should I be replacing seals or any other PM? My engine has about 150,000 on it.
Electrical: I am working on what all I want to be in the vehicle, once I figure that out I will post up.
Thanks much.
you can have the gauge reads both tanks with a switch. it can be linked to the one that switches the fuel feed even, so you have only one on the dash. I like the simpler approach of having the aux tank fill the primary. that's another option.
do you have a manual choke? can you bump rpm by pulling it partially out? manual throttle is more ideal, but still a simple option if you run out of time to do everything.
why powder coat the tcase? it's pretty aluminum when clean and won't rust. I'd leave that one uncoated. just personal preference.
do you have a manual choke? can you bump rpm by pulling it partially out? manual throttle is more ideal, but still a simple option if you run out of time to do everything.
why powder coat the tcase? it's pretty aluminum when clean and won't rust. I'd leave that one uncoated. just personal preference.
- Thread starter
- #231
I do have a manual choke, and if I need to I can just hold off on the hand throttle for a bit.
I never said everything will get coated. It will go back to pretty much stock. Right now I would be happy with clean.
I never said everything will get coated. It will go back to pretty much stock. Right now I would be happy with clean.
- Thread starter
- #232
I had an interesting experience yesterday afternoon; I lost my rear drivers tire while driving through my neighborhood. In all cruiser tradition I put my spare on and my cruiser got me home under it's own power. I have damaged both the drum and the backing plate to the point that they will not fit together. The last bit of damage is I knocked in the rear quarter panel into the wheel well and finally determined I do have about a 1/4" of bondo. I am seeing if anyone has those parts handy, so I can get back on the road. Currently I am also checking out the cost of swapping over to disk conversion.
Thanks
Thanks
How horrible. I have drum parts that you are welcome to. You will need to confirm if our years are compatible.
Call me later this afternoon to discuss.
Call me later this afternoon to discuss.
I have the same year axle in the back yard. let me know if you want the parts.
- Thread starter
- #235
Thanks for the offers. I am strongly considering swapping in disk brakes unless someone can talk me out of it. They seem to be a better system in the long run. I know a couple guys run them here and I am looking for some input. I am looking strongly at Poser's brackets with Monte Carlo calipers.
don't let me talk you out of that. disks are better. if you need an emergency set up for a hot date, you know where to get quick fix parts.
1911
chupacabra
Rear disc conversion was one of the best things I've ever done to improve driving my 40. I was lazy and bought the MAF kit which includes their brackets, new NAPA Monte Carlo calipers, and brake lines. If you're going to take the axles out rather than just grind off the stock rivets, you might as well put new seals and axle bearings in while you're there.
Rear Disk Brake Costs
Hey Paul:
As discussed on the phone and other posts, below are the costs for my rear disk brake conversion:
Total: $600.96. This includes the caliper core charge of $44 and all of Peco. Remember, you can reduce the cost of Peco if you do not need all the lines. And reduce it some more if you do not need the proportioning valve.
Before you and Ali open your rear diff, take a look at these photos: https://forum.ih8mud.com/nm-high-desert-cruisers/319684-ol-jenny-build-thread.html#post5006509.
There is a good chance I will be up and running by the end of the weekend. If so, I will let you know and you can drive my FJ40 and see what disk brakes on all four are like.
Hey Paul:
As discussed on the phone and other posts, below are the costs for my rear disk brake conversion:
- Monte Carlo Calipers: 42.97 + 22 core (each; Napa)
- Big hex key to install calipers: 3.59
- Brake Proportioning Valve: 39.95 (Summit Racing)
- Brake Lines: 219.50 (Peco; this was for all four brakes plus prop. valve fittings. Inlcudes all fittings etc. And includes lines to the frame. You probably can cut this cost by 1/3.)
- Caliper brackets, rear disk rotor, brake hose tabs, rear axle seals: 207.98 (Poser (Steve))
Total: $600.96. This includes the caliper core charge of $44 and all of Peco. Remember, you can reduce the cost of Peco if you do not need all the lines. And reduce it some more if you do not need the proportioning valve.
Before you and Ali open your rear diff, take a look at these photos: https://forum.ih8mud.com/nm-high-desert-cruisers/319684-ol-jenny-build-thread.html#post5006509.
There is a good chance I will be up and running by the end of the weekend. If so, I will let you know and you can drive my FJ40 and see what disk brakes on all four are like.
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I would not install this system without the proportion valve. I bought my rear brake lines from The Streetrod Mfg Co. They also sell the brackets and rotors, though I would support Steve (Poser). The lines were less than $20 each and the guys there are very helpful.
- Thread starter
- #240
Thanks for all the information and replies on the topic. It looks like this is the way I will be headed soon. I'll get a hold of Poser and get an order in soon, so I can be cranking away on this. This was an unexpected upgrade, but one I am looking forward to having done.
