Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo

[Source3]

I will throw my old drum parts in back of the truck. If you want me to drop them off tomorrow evening let me know. This way you can be on the road while you source the parts. I need to go to Placitas tomorrow morning so I will be going to Dan's via the "over the mountain route"; otherwise I would drop the parts at your house tomorrow morning.

 

[Bad Mojo]

I will throw my old drum parts in back of the truck. If you want me to drop them off tomorrow evening let me know. This way you can be on the road while you source the parts. I need to go to Placitas tomorrow morning so I will be going to Dan's via the "over the mountain route"; otherwise I would drop the parts at your house tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the offer, but now that I know I'm doing disc I can go a couple days without it drivable. I already have parts on hold at American, which I will get tomorrow and I am placing my order to Poser tomorrow.

 

[1911]

Brake Proportioning Valve: 39.95 (Summit Racing)

I would not install this system without the proportion valve.

I put the Summit proportioning valve in mine, but I get the best braking with it wide open.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Great news, Ali and I were able to check to get my brakes working again. The backing plate took the brunt of hit and he was able to bend that back. We listened to and checked out the diff and it is working just fine. After that we worked on getting the rear quarter that had folded in pretty straight. It is back to being functional, just not pretty.

Went to Discount Tire and they are replacing the tire for free, they are currently looking for a single one. Got to love free replacement.

Disk brakes have been marked up on the to do list, and now I have all the information gathered on them, so I can start ordering in all the parts.

 

[Bad Mojo]

The forty is currently having "spells" of turning off, while I am driving. The engine dies, but my electronics work. The radio and fan will stay on, and when I try to restart it I can hear the starter trying to crank to the engine over. I get a heavy gas smell, but it will refuse to start for a couple minutes. Once it does come to life it does so with no problem. The interesting thing is I have had this experience only after I have filled up with fuel earlier that day. Before the engine dies I will have only have driven a block or two from where I had started. Both times I have driven approximately 15 miles, stopped and then have it die on me.

All my gauges have looked normal, but when I checked my fuel filter today I noticed some rust flakes in it. About twenty very small pieces. I am coming to the conclusion that I have rusty crap floating in my tank and it clogging the fuel line.

I am thinking pull the tank and inspect. Thoughts or other ideas?

 

[alia176]

vapor lock? Just reaching here!!!

 

[Source3]

I get a heavy gas smell

Where, in the cabin or under the hood?

Before the engine dies I will have only have driven a block or two from where I had started. Both times I have driven approximately 15 miles, stopped and then have it die on me.

I had similar symptoms with my 1975 Olds. The cause, clogged fuel filter.

Furthermore, please clarify, did the truck die within a few blocks or twice within 15 miles? If 15 miles perhaps you are getting vapor lock for some reason (thermostat not opening and/or your temp gauge is not working properly giving you false info). Is their fuel in the carb window? If there is fuel, is it boiling?

Next time it happens remove the gas cap and see if there is a lot of vacuum pressure, (sometimes it is hard to tell is air is coming in/out). This vacuum pressure may be working against the mechanical fuel pump. If a lot of vacuum, check your vent lines for clogs that go to the vapor separator canister behind the passenger seat. There are three lines that vent the tank. Then check the line to the charcoal canister. Most likely not the issue but worth a check. Also, you mentioned fuel smell. If in the cabin, inspect the check valve that goes from the vapor separator to the charcoal canister for cracks.

Also disconnect the fuel line after the mechanical pump and turn the engine over. Does fuel come out? And if there is no fuel in the bowl, you may be vapor locking between the fuel pump and carb (but your temp gauge registers normal...hmm).

I am coming to the conclusion that I have rusty **** floating in my tank and it clogging the fuel line.

Do not rule out rusty fuel lines. Perhaps install a clear fuel filter inside the cab where the fuel line leaves the tank (the lower front left port). The left mid-level is the return. Then install another clear fuel filter between your hard line and fuel pump. This will help you determine where the rust is coming from. It would be a bummer if you cleaned out the tank and the problem of rust was with your steel hard lines? If the tank has rust, you will find that the recommend solution on MUD is to buy a new tank from CDAN. If you clean the tank, be sure to buy a new fuel sender gasket from CDAN, reused ones are hard to seal. You will need to remove the fuel sender to look into the tank. A telescoping mirror and telescoping magnet (to help you remove metal flakes) is also handy.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Thanks for the suggestion I will take a look at that today. To clarify it has died on two separate days. Both would start with me filling up with gas, driving about 15 miles, then it would sit for about 30-40 minutes and after that it would stall/die after only driving two blocks. I did not think to check the fuel in carb. I did pop the gas tank cap and didn't get much hiss coming out.

My temperature gauge has either sitting dead center, or a smidgen past, but it generally goes down after driving for a couple minutes.

I can smell gas inside of the cab.

I have noticed a hissing sound after the vehicle has been driving for a long period of time. The sound is coming from the gas tank cap, once opened the sound goes away. This has occurred after it dying and driving about 20 miles and just on normal days.

 

[Source3]

To clarify it has died on two separate days. Both would start with me filling up with gas, driving about 15 miles, then it would sit for about 30-40 minutes and after that it would stall/die after only driving two blocks. I did not think to check the fuel in carb. I did pop the gas tank cap and didn't get much hiss coming out.

Sounds like vapor lock. After parking, you engine dissipates heat, causing a vapor lock, likely in the small rubber line between the fuel pump and the hard line that runs near the top front of the engine and to the carb. Then we you restart ~35 minutes later, you burn the fuel in the carb bowl then stall.[/QUOTE]

I can smell gas inside of the cab.

I have noticed a hissing sound after the vehicle has been driving for a long period of time. The sound is coming from the gas tank cap, once opened the sound goes away. This has occurred after it dying and driving about 20 miles and just on normal days.

Check your hose clamps and for cracked hoses around the filler neck, vent lines, etc. Do not forget about the check valve. The hissing noise may be related to the tank not venting through the vapor separator then to the charcoal canister. Do you have a carb fan? Perhaps this will help dissipate engine heat after you park?

Lastly, it has been my experience that if the temp gauge is at the 3/4 mark you are at risk of vapor locking. If your temp gauge hits 7/8 it is highly likely vapor lock will occur. What does your temp gauge show after 10 minutes of being turned off?

 

[Bad Mojo]

Sounds like vapor lock. After parking, you engine dissipates heat, causing a vapor lock, likely in the small rubber line between the fuel pump and the hard line that runs near the top front of the engine and to the carb. Then we you restart ~35 minutes later, you burn the fuel in the carb bowl then stall.

Check your hose clamps and for cracked hoses around the filler neck, vent lines, etc. Do not forget about the check valve. The hissing noise may be related to the tank not venting through the vapor separator then to the charcoal canister. Do you have a carb fan? Perhaps this will help dissipate engine heat after you park?

Lastly, it has been my experience that if the temp gauge is at the 3/4 mark you are at risk of vapor locking. If your temp gauge hits 7/8 it is highly likely vapor lock will occur. What does your temp gauge show after 10 minutes of being turned off?[/QUOTE]

I will check all the lines and will see what my gauge says this afternoon. When I am driving it never has gone to 3/4, but it might when it is off.

 

[Cruisergreg]

I'm going to disagree a little bit with Andrew here. It sounds less like vapor lock and more like a problem I had in the 2F FJ60. The fuel vapor collector can get clogged (or the hoses misrouted) so that under certain conditions raw gas gets forced into the intake and you flood out. I think your smelling gas when this happens is a valuable clue.

 

[78Cruzr]

Paul,

Do you have a return line from your carb back to the tank?

I had a similar problem earlier this year until I reinstalled the return line.


Guy

 

[Bad Mojo]

Paul,

Do you have a return line from your carb back to the tank?

I had a similar problem earlier this year until I reinstalled the return line.


Guy

I have a return line on mine hooked up.

I drove the 40 today, got it up to it's normal temperature (1/2 way mark), let it sit for about 10 minutes and then checked the temperature gauge. The gauge was just shy of the 3/4 mark and today wasn't nearly as hot as the 2 days it stalled on me, so I am thinking I had vapor lock. I am going to run through all my connections as well.

 

[SteveLCetc]

Do you have a gas line running close to an exhaust pipe? You might try wrapping the gas line in insulation there.

 

[Source3]

Do you have a gas line running close to an exhaust pipe? You might try wrapping the gas line in insulation there.

Also trying running higher octane to see if higher octane stops the vapor lock.

 

[lurch]

Do you have a gas line running close to an exhaust pipe? You might try wrapping the gas line in insulation there.

Thats what happened with mine...it would only stall if I ran through the gears fast and generated a bunch of heat. Also I could hear the gas tank bubbling after I stop the engine. I moved the lines away from the headers and it stopped.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Alright, so far the cruiser has been running great in the cooler weather.

But the big thing is when I ordered up a replacement tire for my tire that fell off, Discount had it shipped by Fedex, and they lost it in transit. Why didn't they order in another tire, because it was the last 33"x9.5" AT in the country. Discount can order in the mud version or go to a 33"x10.5" AT. I want to go to a wider tire once I wear out my skinnies, which will take a while, so I don't see it as a bad thing. However, I am worried about if I actually have to run a 10.5" with 3 9.5" is there anything I need to worry about it. I am not planning on needing a spare anytime soon, but just in case.

As always thanks.

 

[BionicCruiser]

if it's for a spare, get it. If for a daily runner, I see very little problem personally. maybe best to put it on the rear axle just in case, but it will just stick out a hair more than the rest.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Paul: Give me a call as early as you can tomorrow. Preferably before 8:30AM. I'll be driving down to ABQ, and I happen to know where there is a slightly used BFG AT 33x9.50 that I bet we could work something out with... (it's the spare for my sister's FJ-60, but the others are 33x12.50 something or others...)

I'm sure we could work something out...

Dan

 

[Bad Mojo]

I have a question about venting. I hear a hissing noise coming from the filler neck whenever I have driven my 40 for about 15 minutes. Once I pull the cap it increases in noise. It seems to be pushing out. It is a Toyota cap about 7 months old. Should I even be hearing something?

Now I am just thinking. I went to gas yesterday, but didn't fill up all the way. And the 40 wouldn't start after that. I checked and I had no fuel coming from the tank to the pump. So what I am thinking is it has to build up some kind of pressure to keep the fuel moving. This also makes sense when I used to fill up my tank all the way the 40 would start and get me to my next stop, but then wouldn't start after that stop. Because it was full it had enough pressure, but after it had been driven it had lost enough pressure in it and it became starved for fuel.

My fuel pump is 9 months old.

Thoughts?

I am also going to keep looking at other possible ideas.