putting 1 tons under my lx have a few questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Perhaps my 586 gearing was a bit deep and the smaller resulting pinion contributed to failure. My pending delivery 10" rear is only 513 gears. I won't go deeper. Gear the tcase and keep the rear strong

And d60s are not cheap but worth it. Work a few extra shifts and sell the old parts and go tons and be done. I have 35sp 4130 yukons in mine with stock spicer zerkless joints in both knuckles. No hubs. I havnt had a single problem with them in over 3 years. And I am not kind to this truck
 
BTW, stock neckdown shafts are not much weaker than the stock non neckdown shafts..

Run them till you have a problem.
 
BTW, stock neckdown shafts are not much weaker than the stock non neckdown shafts..

Run them till you have a problem.
 
i'll probably go with that, the guy i was going to trde with bailed so i gotta save from scratch unless someone wants to trade front ends :)
 
This is what I need. Ive got a chevy 60 and cant bring myself to put it in. I want to go 40s, and my axles have held up really well so far but a free 60 with gears, locker, hysteer, brackets, etc isnt free, but neither are birfs. If building a 80 was easy everyone would do it :bang:
 
This is what I need. Ive got a chevy 60 and cant bring myself to put it in. I want to go 40s, and my axles have held up really well so far but a free 60 with gears, locker, hysteer, brackets, etc isnt free, but neither are birfs. If building a 80 was easy everyone would do it :bang:


agreed, i love my lx i just got back today from the con, wheeled from loone lake to buck island, went through all the hard lines while only slipping the tires a hand full of times, i love how heavy my truck is, it keeps the tires planted but its time for 1 tons
 
I'll chime in here with experience. I have a ff in my fj60 with polly's and ARP studs (not any more), 4:88's and ARB running 37's. I have snapped the studs twice and and was not bound up and i never drive hammer down. easy on the throttle low geared and pick a good line. I now have upgraded my hubs to 7/16" cap socket bolts (see "hub stud upgrade" in the hardcore corner). forget the ARP's. not worth the money for the hubs. as for the Polly's...guess what; they are now only a 1 year warranty and they went retroactive on that, so all of us who bought lifetime guaranteed Polly's because they are indestructable, well, they are not, and you no longer have a warranty. don't believe me? just talked with BK Cruiser on the rubithon this weekend and he is now on his 3rd set of Polly's. oh but they gave him 10% off...nice lifetime warranty. LAME.

anywhoo, if I had it to do over again I would do a 14 bolt c&c and offset it for the cruiser with gears and lockers it is the same, or less than the nicely built ff in my rig. I do like my axle, but I also worry just a bit.
 
Last edited:
i'll chime in here with experience. I have a ff in my fj60 with polly's and arp studs (not any more), 4:88's and arb running 37's. I have snapped the studs twice and and was not bound up and i never drive hammer down. Easy on the throttle low geared and pick a good line. I now have upgraded my hubs to 7/16" cap socket bolts (see "hub stud upgrade" in the hardcore corner). Forget the arp's. Not worth the money for the hubs. As for the polly's...guess what; they are now only a 1 year warranty and they went retroactive on that, so all of us who bought lifetime guaranteed polly's because they are indestructable, well, they are not, and you no longer have a warranty. Don't believe me? Just talked with bk cruiser on the rubithon this weekend and he is now on his 3rd set of polly's. Oh but they gave him 10% off...nice lifetime warranty. Lame.

Anywhoo, if i had it to do over again i would do a 14 bolt c&c and offset it for the cruiser with gears and lockers it is the same, or less than the *****en built ff in my rig. I do like my axle, but i also worry just a bit.

i'm actually about to do the 7/16ths mod, i just dont have the $ for 1 tons right now, btw i think i saw your 60 up at the con this last weekend, does yours have toyo m/t's on it with the quad style headlights?
 
I'll chime in here with experience. I have a ff in my fj60 with polly's and ARP studs (not any more), 4:88's and ARB running 37's. I have snapped the studs twice and and was not bound up and i never drive hammer down. easy on the throttle low geared and pick a good line. I now have upgraded my hubs to 7/16" cap socket bolts (see "hub stud upgrade" in the hardcore corner). forget the ARP's. not worth the money for the hubs. as for the Polly's...guess what; they are now only a 1 year warranty and they went retroactive on that, so all of us who bought lifetime guaranteed Polly's because they are indestructable, well, they are not, and you no longer have a warranty. don't believe me? just talked with BK Cruiser on the rubithon this weekend and he is now on his 3rd set of Polly's. oh but they gave him 10% off...nice lifetime warranty. LAME.

anywhoo, if I had it to do over again I would do a 14 bolt c&c and offset it for the cruiser with gears and lockers it is the same, or less than the bitchen built ff in my rig. I do like my axle, but I also worry just a bit.

yeah, but look what's torquing the bad boys... a stroker and a 4500... thems ain't giving up, so something in your axle wll. We go slushboxes. I like your drivetrain btw... very envious.
 
yeah, but look what's torquing the bad boys... a stroker and a 4500... thems ain't giving up, so something in your axle wll.

and you forgot the toybox .. that's some serious gearing .. I'm jealous too .. ;)
 
and you forgot the toybox .. that's some serious gearing .. I'm jealous too .. ;)

yep, thx. I love the drivetrain. I like the manual better as I do not have to use brakes at all while going down rocks. much more control. It drives itself and I have a thumb throttle on my shifter.

I was there on the 'Con last week, but my cruiser was not. I blew an oil galley plug on the 383 and lost oil pressure a few days before the run. fixing that this week.

both times I broke studs on my FF I was not really forcing it or on a bad line, but I do agree that there will be a weak spot somewhere...lol

Don't get me wron, I like that FF rear set up, especially after upgrading the studs, but I also did not think I would break those ARP's. they are not a fix-all obviously. I do have the ARP steering knuckle studs and have not had any issues, but again I don't force my turns when it is bound and I don't run hydro.
 
I can find this
attachment.php


and this
birfield_sizes.jpg


but I can't find the direct compairison between fj80 and dana 60 cv, sorry :/

I can tell you that those 60 RCV joints are big
attachment.php
 
I can find this

and this

but I can't find the direct compairison between fj80 and dana 60 cv, sorry :/

I can tell you that those 60 RCV joints are big


I just got wood. Those 300M shafts are fuggin huge! But the pics are showing that there's not much size difference in the bells of the D60 and FJ80... shaft size, yes... but not really the meat of the breaking point....
 
I think there is a lot of strength gained from the added wrap around the bell has.

attachment.php


Longfield could not break them with his torque tester machine which is good for 22,000 ft-lbs. 30spline longfield 4340 shaft breaks at 8,500 ft/lb. Of coarse an fj80 birf was not tested, but I imagine it would be stronger than the inner shaft under the circumstances that the birf is new-ish.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8037547&postcount=66
 
Last edited:
I just got wood. Those 300M shafts are fuggin huge! But the pics are showing that there's not much size difference in the bells of the D60 and FJ80... shaft size, yes... but not really the meat of the breaking point....

BS.. The D60 Stuff is significantly stronger.
 
BS.. The D60 Stuff is significantly stronger.

I believe you.... but show me. Where's the data? I want to see the star and cage out of the 80series rcv and the D60 rcv respectively. I realize the 35 spline shaft is bigger. And by the pics, it looks like the bell is barely larger, but why on God's green earth would they make different stars and cages for such a small amount of sales per year when they could use the same ones in both.
 
Found the internals of the Dana 60 RCV's but not the 80 Longs yet.

given the shaft size that we're seeing above... I'd love to try a Dana 60 cage in my 80 birf. Obviously the star/race won't fit due to shaft size.

edit: I've called bobby asking for spare cages and stars. He won't sell them. I've inquired with quite a few folks about this and they've all had the same answer: no clue.
Apparently RCV will. But I want to know if it's the same.
compare.JPG
 
Isnt the 80 stuff chromoly and not 300m like the D60cv? the 300m will be much stonger and resiliant to breakage and will also allow more twist before failure also. Not to mention the sheer size difference of the two. even tho the cage may not be in these pictures a whole lot visually larger on the D60 vs 80 the further spread out pattern will distribute the force over a larger surface area giving more strength.
 
Isnt the 80 stuff chromoly and not 300m like the D60cv? the 300m will be much stonger and resiliant to breakage and will also allow more twist before failure also. Not to mention the sheer size difference of the two. even tho the cage may not be in these pictures a whole lot visually larger on the D60 vs 80 the further spread out pattern will distribute the force over a larger surface area giving more strength.

Nope. The 80 series cages are 300M. which is why I waned those only...

My point in the race pictures was to show if you machined out the 80-series race to fit a Dana60 35 spline shaft... wouldn't it look the same as the pic of the D60 race?
The cage in an FJ80 birfield already doesn't look like it fits... it literally hangs out of the bell....
 
Old thread revival but I received the CAD drawings from RCV today and the internal parts for the D60 and the bell are all bigger than the FJ80. The 80 Birf bell is 4.010" and the D60 is 4.485. The D60 shaft is 1.5" and the 80 30/30 shaft is 1.23"
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom