putting 1 tons under my lx have a few questions (2 Viewers)

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The front end of the 80 is the weak link.

ditto

Is a 9" that much stronger than the 9.5" LC rear? Is it all in the axle shafts?

I'm not sure who's breaking 80 series rear ends? anyone? upgrade the shafts to poly's and ARP studs... what's not bomb proof about that? it already flexes like mad... why change the rear?




I'ma play devils advocate for a minute.
I have recently been given the same proposal as the OP, my 80 axles for a D60/14bolt plus cash to buy brackets and such. both sets are in their stock form. After sitting down and doing the cost analysis versus fabbing versus strength gained, I'm going to try to stay toyota. here's why:

the rear: put polyperformance shafts in it, ARP hub studs, maybe a few more dowels.... how's that weaker than a D70? Dusty has already broken his, and the bill is $1000.
Obviously the 14bolt is stronger, but are we breaking the rear 80series axles to warrant a bill in excess of $800 beyond the cost of the axle to get that 14bolt under there? Most 14bolts we find will need the disc conversion, new matching R&P, shave kit, locker, etc, etc,

the front: sell that POS. The 8" dif doesn't hold up under mini-trucks and ftoys, how are we expecting to run it under twice the weight?
Has anyone gotten a 9.5 front housing from Dan at ruffstuff yet? I'm of the opinion that housing with 80 series balls and Longfield superset would be BOMBPROOF, but that's just theory cause I haven't seen one yet.
A Dana60 is stronger than an 80 series front axle.... but is it stronger than a 9.5 dif and longfields?

Is my thinking too far out of the box?
 
ditto



I'm not sure who's breaking 80 series rear ends? anyone? upgrade the shafts to poly's and ARP studs... what's not bomb proof about that? it already flexes like mad... why change the rear?




I'ma play devils advocate for a minute.
I have recently been given the same proposal as the OP, my 80 axles for a D60/14bolt plus cash to buy brackets and such. both sets are in their stock form. After sitting down and doing the cost analysis versus fabbing versus strength gained, I'm going to try to stay toyota. here's why:

the rear: put polyperformance shafts in it, ARP hub studs, maybe a few more dowels.... how's that weaker than a D70? Dusty has already broken his, and the bill is $1000.
Obviously the 14bolt is stronger, but are we breaking the rear 80series axles to warrant a bill in excess of $800 beyond the cost of the axle to get that 14bolt under there? Most 14bolts we find will need the disc conversion, new matching R&P, shave kit, locker, etc, etc,

the front: sell that POS. The 8" dif doesn't hold up under mini-trucks and ftoys, how are we expecting to run it under twice the weight?
Has anyone gotten a 9.5 front housing from Dan at ruffstuff yet? I'm of the opinion that housing with 80 series balls and Longfield superset would be BOMBPROOF, but that's just theory cause I haven't seen one yet.
A Dana60 is stronger than an 80 series front axle.... but is it stronger than a 9.5 dif and longfields?

Is my thinking too far out of the box?

You are not thinking outside the box, but you are not comparing things well either.

A D70 is significantly stronger in every way over a 80 series rear axle. Even more so when you start comparing modded axles to modded axles.

The ring/pinion is stronger.
You can run 35 spline FF shafts.
The housing is significantly stronger.

Stamped steel housings are aweak link. As are the hubs in general.

If you want bombproof to about 44" tires, you need to step up to real axles.

Over 44's, you need to start thinking about rockwells or other options.
 
You are not thinking outside the box, but you are not comparing things well either.

A D70 is significantly stronger in every way over a 80 series rear axle. Even more so when you start comparing modded axles to modded axles.

The ring/pinion is stronger.
You can run 35 spline FF shafts.
The housing is significantly stronger.

Stamped steel housings are aweak link. As are the hubs in general.

If you want bombproof to about 44" tires, you need to step up to real axles.

Over 44's, you need to start thinking about rockwells or other options.

I see your point(s). And maybe no one is pushing the rear 80 axle enough to show the weaklinks. My main point was, it's already under there and works well, so just slap some poly's in it and hub studs and be done until the rear starts giving you issues... those mods take $500 and 30 minutes. A axle swap will be significantly higher and won't even get into the time to get the axle under the 80.
It's the front that poses the problems for us. And yes, if I were going buggy, then I'd be all over the D60/14bolt. There's just some cool mystique to keeping it as toyota as possible IMO.
 
80 series trucks are not typicaly "hardcore" So they are not abused. It's a mall crawler.

Knowing what you want to do with a truck def makes a difference in the axles that you want to run under it.

Just remember, by the time you start swapping out housings, a much stronger axle is not hard to justify..
 
80 series trucks are not typicaly "hardcore" So they are not abused. It's a mall crawler.

Knowing what you want to do with a truck def makes a difference in the axles that you want to run under it.

Just remember, by the time you start swapping out housings, a much stronger axle is not hard to justify..

amen. amen. Wish I had heard this sermon before I fell in love with the 80...

It's hard watching all the 400+ HP rigs do what they do over here in my neck of the woods and not wanna be in it with them...
Southern Rock Bouncing.
 
ditto



I'm not sure who's breaking 80 series rear ends? anyone? upgrade the shafts to poly's and ARP studs... what's not bomb proof about that? it already flexes like mad... why change the rear?




I'ma play devils advocate for a minute.
I have recently been given the same proposal as the OP, my 80 axles for a D60/14bolt plus cash to buy brackets and such. both sets are in their stock form. After sitting down and doing the cost analysis versus fabbing versus strength gained, I'm going to try to stay toyota. here's why:

the rear: put polyperformance shafts in it, ARP hub studs, maybe a few more dowels.... how's that weaker than a D70? Dusty has already broken his, and the bill is $1000.
Obviously the 14bolt is stronger, but are we breaking the rear 80series axles to warrant a bill in excess of $800 beyond the cost of the axle to get that 14bolt under there? Most 14bolts we find will need the disc conversion, new matching R&P, shave kit, locker, etc, etc,

the front: sell that POS. The 8" dif doesn't hold up under mini-trucks and ftoys, how are we expecting to run it under twice the weight?
Has anyone gotten a 9.5 front housing from Dan at ruffstuff yet? I'm of the opinion that housing with 80 series balls and Longfield superset would be BOMBPROOF, but that's just theory cause I haven't seen one yet.
A Dana60 is stronger than an 80 series front axle.... but is it stronger than a 9.5 dif and longfields?

Is my thinking too far out of the box?

SINCE THAT GUY BAILED ON THOSE 60'S THATS EXACTLY WHAT I'M GOING TO DO!!!! :cheers:
 
No worries, i guess i'm building a custom toyota 60!
 
I'm curious to see a side-by-side of the 80 series long and the D60 long... Wondering more about the cage and star than the shaft size.
 
I'm curious to see a side-by-side of the 80 series long and the D60 long... Wondering more about the cage and star than the shaft size.

D60 long is a lot bigger and stronger.

35 spline shafts will do that for ya..
 
the d60 is obviously stronger, but having one spare thirdmember for both front and rear axles would be sweet, not to mention i already have nitro chromo shafts and birfs that are almost new i might as well use them
 
D60 long is a lot bigger and stronger.

show me.
They're made by the same company. surely there has to be a side-by-side.

Not doubting, I just want to see the difference.

the d60 is obviously stronger, but having one spare thirdmember for both front and rear axles would be sweet, not to mention i already have nitro chromo shafts and birfs that are almost new i might as well use them

Obviously it is, and it can get even stronger all the way to unobtainium. I watched a D60 bang repeatedly onto a rock Saturday that woulda made my stock front axle cry.
 
I see your point(s). And maybe no one is pushing the rear 80 axle enough to show the weaklinks. so just slap some poly's in it and hub studs and be done until the rear starts giving you issues... those mods take $500 and 30 minutes.

And yes, if I were going buggy, then I'd be all over the D60/14bolt. There's just some cool mystique to keeping it as toyota as possible IMO.

Give me or get someone to donate me an 80 series rear axle and I can assure you I will find the weak links of an 80 series rear. It seems no matter what I do I can break rear shafts. and whatever else.

I also like the idea of an all yota truck but it isnt feasible with big heavy rubber over 39-40"

I get my 14B from a friend next week.
 
I get my 14B from a friend next week.

Nice!


Give me or get someone to donate me an 80 series rear axle and I can assure you I will find the weak links of an 80 series rear. It seems no matter what I do I can break rear shafts. and whatever else.

what are you running? Semifloat 60 series rears or what? I used to think the 80 SF were just as tough then I saw the light. I'll conceede that i was wrong. Mainly I guess because the SF have the weight of the wheel on the axle shaft.
But anyway. The weak link of the FF rear 80 axle is already known, the shafts and hubs... but it's easily fixable with poly's and ARP's

I also like the idea of an all yota truck but it isnt feasible with big heavy rubber over 39-40"

No doubt! As good as the new 42" BFG red labels look... I'll be getting the 39 red's eventually.
 
Yup

what are you running? Semifloat 60 series rears or what? I used to think the 80 SF were just as tough then I saw the light. I'll conceede that i was wrong. Mainly I guess because the SF have the weight of the wheel on the axle shaft.
But anyway. The weak link of the FF rear 80 axle is already known, the shafts and hubs... but it's easily fixable with poly's and ARP's

Yup 60 series semi float rear. Had poly rears and twisted the splines on one and split the other clean in half at the same time. busted a stock rear shaft with almost no load on it but when bound up it was fine. freaking retarded, I have also busted 2 long sides in my other truck when not even working the truck at all.

No doubt! As good as the new 42" BFG red labels look... I'll be getting the 39 red's eventually.

Yea I would love some of those, but I have been really eyeing the 43" SX's A buddy of mine has em and they just plain work. I like the boggers but they are heavy. they stick well in the rocks.
 
The next weak link in the 80 is the r&p as everyone has said. I know when I bust my sf shafts, one of them also took out a side brearing, from the shock load, not the end of the broken shaft grinding on it. I it for almost a year before I new it was bad. Actually found it when I was swaping out the locker to my FF replacement. That being said, I do not wheel anymore since I do not have time or space to work on my junk, but I do have a D60 and D70 waiting to go in. Might have to swap the D70 for a 14B. It just makes sense, especially since I want to go deep gear, 6.xx or 7.xx. Need to make up for the lack of torque from the 3fe. Right now I can make my cruiser chirp the tires in low range shifting from 1-2 on pavement. It make me giggle like a little girl when it does that.
 
The next weak link in the 80 is the r&p as everyone has said.

I'm working on remedying that problem for myself.

Actually found it when I was swaping out the locker to my FF replacement.

Seeing your FF under your junk at RoundUp 2010 finally convinced me to find a FF to put under my junk...

That being said, I do not wheel anymore since I do not have time or space to work on my junk,

wait, what?!

Might have to swap the D70 for a 14B. It just makes sense, especially since I want to go deep gear, 6.xx or 7.xx. Need to make up for the lack of torque from the 3fe. Right now I can make my cruiser chirp the tires in low range shifting from 1-2 on pavement. It make me giggle like a little girl when it does that.

I'll be watching to see what's needed for the 3FE!
go straight to 14Bolt...
I know you broke SF shafts... but are you breaking FF shafts in the rear?
 
The next weak link in the 80 is the r&p as everyone has said. I know when I bust my sf shafts, one of them also took out a side brearing, from the shock load, not the end of the broken shaft grinding on it. I it for almost a year before I new it was bad. Actually found it when I was swaping out the locker to my FF replacement. That being said, I do not wheel anymore since I do not have time or space to work on my junk, but I do have a D60 and D70 waiting to go in. Might have to swap the D70 for a 14B. It just makes sense, especially since I want to go deep gear, 6.xx or 7.xx. Need to make up for the lack of torque from the 3fe. Right now I can make my cruiser chirp the tires in low range shifting from 1-2 on pavement. It make me giggle like a little girl when it does that.



i thought you needed a D70 to get the deep gearing. from my understanding 5:38s are the lowest you can go in a 14B.

i work on ambulances almost everyday so i see these D70U's all the time. a couple in our scrapyard im trying to get to sell to fund my toy axle build.. a 80 FF rear and custom diamond like the raisin's front axle would suit me just fine on those new 41.5" rockers.
 
a 14 bolt is really no stronger than a D70.

D70 has deep gearing choices. 14 bolt does not.

For upgrading, the D70 is a better choice.

14 bolts are nice because they are stupid strong from the factory and you can pick them up for $50..
 
wait, what?!
I haven't been wheeling since GSMTR last year. That has been over a year now. I hope to get out again this year, but I live in an apartment, and have a small garage to work in. I need to get a house, so that might take my funds and time for awhile. Plus I have 60 that I am trying to make my daily, but it has got a lot of loose end.


I'll be watching to see what's needed for the 3FE!
go straight to 14Bolt...
I know you broke SF shafts... but are you breaking FF shafts in the rear?

No, but I hate being that guy. I have been there more time than I like before(2-80, 1-60) I like helping peeps on the trail, but hate being the one that needs to be helped/or breaks and holds up the show.

Per Mace, I forgot about the limited gearing on the 14B. I guess I'll stay with the D70.
 

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