Purchased 2000 Land Cruiser from Odometer Fraud seller. NEED HELP. (1 Viewer)

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Anything worth that much should always be paid with a cashier's check, and it should payable to the exact name or names on the title. And you really should ask to see their ID to ensure that they are actually that person on the title. A high percentage of the cash only people are going to be sketchy, as in this case.
 
This is great advice for anyone making a large purchase with cash. If you can’t afford to lose the cash, always use a cashiers check and verify identification. If seller refuses to provide proper identification, walk away.
 
I am reaching out to seek advice from anyone who has experience with their Land Cruiser because I am in a hole.

I just purchased a 2000 Land Cruiser in CA that was advertised as a single owner with 70,000 miles for $16,000. The ODO on the vehicle reads 70,000. But after purchasing we found a car fax report that says the vehicle has 281,264 miles and 3 owners. The seller had a carfax report and invoices from Toyota that showed the mileage that he advertised but it seems to be fake after pulling our own carfax (we effd up by not looking at this before purchasing..I know).

I am now in a dilemma.. I have a truck with significantly more miles than I thought it would have and repairs may be 10fold. Do I sell the truck and try to get back some money and take a loss? Or do I keep the truck?

I plan to take it to Toyota to get a full inspection on it so that I have a list of said repairs/ maintenance. At what expense is too much to continue on with the truck that has 281,264 miles on it? What are red flag repairs?

I was under the impression that the vehicle was well maintained but now I feel violated not knowing if it was taken care of.

The s*** thing is, the truck is in beautiful shape inside and out. Yet, didn’t catch the fraudulent odometer and falsifying the amount of owners.

I bought this vehicle as a family car to have daily for my 10 month child. I thought I was buying a well maintained machine because I need reliability. I sold my 2009 access cab Tacoma for this to upgrade to a 4 door and now I feel absolutely effd.

Can anyone offer any sort of advice so that I can think clearly on what do next in this situation? Do I continue with maintenance/ repairs for the truck with high mileage or do I sell now and cut my losses?

Thank you,

JosephView attachment 3830134View attachment 3830135
Take hart. Even low miles, have their issues. These are 18 to 25 years old. Even ones like the 07LC 24K miles, just sold on BAT.

I may, one day! Write up, some of what I have found on these low miles. It will shock most everyone here.

Bottom line. I can't change odometers or rather I do not and will not. But I can make them like new. Provided, they've good bones to work with.
 
I’m going to be getting it checked out by a specialist in these next few days. He’ll flush the transmission and do a full evaluation. Then we’ll go from there.
NO! Don't do ANYTHING to it until the fraud issue is resolved.

I really don't understand this "maybe I'll keep it, i dunno, what do you all think?" train of thought. Park it and spend at LEAST one day aggressively pursuing all legal means of recourse, starting with the local police and DMV. Like NOW.

THEN once it's resolved (or not) you can decide what to do with it.
 
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I’m not sure if the address is valid. Unfortunately we found out late Saturday night and the dmv and Toyota were closed today so I can’t call the shops who the invoices were from.
I plan to made a lot of phone calls tomorrow (civil court, dealerships, and NHTSA) to report it. Tuesday I will be going to AAA to register it. Hopefully by Wednesday or Thursday have scheduled a full mechanical evaluation.
Post the address in this forum - I live in the area and would be happy to pay this motherf*%#er a visit - if the address is legit....
 
if I'm not mistaken, the ECM had to be re-programmed to do this
 
Does the title have PO's name and mileage on it? I think it's good advice to hold off on any work or AAA registration until you find out more about the vehicle.
 
Here in Virginia the official state police website has a feature where you can put the VIN into it, and it will come back with any stolen reports. This would show in the carfax you ran as well.

Main issue is the title, does the date and title # match the one that is on the carfax for the most recently issued one?
 
Post the address in this forum - I live in the area and would be happy to pay this motherf*%#er a visit - if the address is legit....
Joshua Bailey
DL: D7701090
3554 Rosecrans st
STE 114
San Diego, ca, 92110

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Again: Don't do that.

Even if you did, what's your plan? If you don't tell them about the rollback, you're now the one committing fraud. And if you do tell them, they sure as hell aren't going to register it with the odometer as it is.
Is this true that it won’t be able to be registered with a roll back?
 
Here in Virginia the official state police website has a feature where you can put the VIN into it, and it will come back with any stolen reports. This would show in the carfax you ran as well.

Main issue is the title, does the date and title # match the one that is on the carfax for the most recently issued one?
Date matches.
I don’t see the title number
Here in Virginia the official state police website has a feature where you can put the VIN into it, and it will come back with any stolen reports. This would show in the carfax you ran as well.

Main issue is the title, does the date and title # match the one that is on the carfax for the most recently issued one?
date matches.
I don’t see the title number

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Of course. Have you called the police and DMV yet?
I called the police, they said it was a civil case.
Spoke with the civil court today and they gave me a number to seek legal advisory through small claims.
Going to file with dmv soon.
I’m at work right now in Salton sea though so I’m having to figure this all out on the field.
 
Again: Don't do that.

Even if you did, what's your plan? If you don't tell them about the rollback, you're now the one committing fraud. And if you do tell them, they sure as hell aren't going to register it with the odometer as it is.
I guess the idea behind getting it checked out with be peace of mind on my end with driving it or having some documented service to have an idea of what state the vehicle is in for potential selling it. I don’t want to sell this to someone without being clear about the situation of the odometer
 
I had just gotten paid 20k in cash for my Toyota Tacoma. So I had the money for the 100 without having to go to the bank. A big part of the reason in buying the 100 was to avoid a car payment. Now knowing the true estimated miles, the concern is that this truck could turn into a money pit.
Pretty much any 25 year old landcruiser is a money pit.
 
Interesting, that Rosecrans address leads here: San Diego Marine Air and Electric - https://sdmarineair.com/contact-us

Maybe call that business and see if they have an employee named Bailey.

Whoa, a google search brings up a bunch of companies at the same address. Very odd. Is it a UPS or Mailbox address?

===
Conditt Pool & Spa is located at 3555 Rosecrans St Suite 114 in San Diego, California 92110. Conditt Pool & Spa can be contacted via phone at 512-947-3781 for pricing, hours and directions.
===

DR. BROOKE BARTLETT PH.D.
NPI 1285406892
Psychologist - Clinical in San Diego, CA​

NPI Status: Active since October 26, 2023

Contact Information​

3555 ROSECRANS ST STE 114
SAN DIEGO, CA
ZIP 92110
===
and more...
 
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If the only data you have that points to higher miles is the single 281xxx figure from Carfax, I might suspect an error on that end vs. odometer fraud. I'd look for other Toy service records online or other mileage indicators. I'd also simply ask the seller about the discrepancy.
 

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