Pulling my Engine - What should I replace as PM?

[bryanb]

Broke the timing chain on my '97 with 175k. Feel free to read how here: HELP PLEASE! I'm stuck in the wilderness with a dead fxj80

FSM says that in order to replace the timing chain the head needs to be removed and everything has to come off the front of the engine to access the front cover. Since I need to replace my oil pan gasket (leaky), rear main seal (leaky) and head gasket (per FSM) anyway, I decided to just pull the whole engine.

What other items should I be replacing as PM? See running list below. I don't have the kind of budget that allows me to go nuts, but I don't want to miss the opportunity to prevent a major future project.

Also... wondering if freshening the head may help resolve the following issues. It is pretty smelly on startup and idling (not a fuel smell so much as just a lot of exhaust). You could also see a little smoke sometime on start up. It barely passed smog last time. My compression numbers are good, although I haven't performed a leak down test and the truck only burns 1/2qt per 1000 miles. Is it common for these things to leak through the valve guides or seals? If a fresh head may resolve these things, I'll consider doing it.

Thanks!!!!

Recommendations thus far (through post #13):

1. Loosen Crankshaft pulley bolt while engine is in and can be turned via starter
2. Heater pipes running down firewall
3. Hoses
   1. Radiator top and bottom hoses - DONE
   2. Heater hoses by firewall
   3. Heater hoses under intake
   4. PHH - DONE
   5. Vacuum hoses, all
   6. Coolant hoses, all
   7. Power Steering hoses
4. Seals, Gaskets
   1. Rear main seal
   2. Oil Pan gasket
   3. Distributor Oring - DONE
   4. Transmission oil pump seal
   5. Transmission output seal
   6. Oil cover seal - DONE
   7. Exhaust manifold to Y Pipe gaskets and nuts
5. Water Pump
6. Power Steering Pump rebuild
7. Starter Rebuild, contacts
8. Alternator Rebuild or Replace
9. Bronze bushing in block - NOT planning to do anything to the block... Lord willing
   
10. ECU harness - appears to be fine and was previously heat wrapped at the EGR
11. Spark plugs - DONE
12. Spark plug wires
13. Cap/Rotor - DONE
14. Fusible link - DONE
15. Fuel Filter
16. Service Fuel injectors
17. Thermostat - DONE
18. Clean
    1. Oil cooler on side of block
    2. Cooling system, reverse flush
    3. Radiator
19. Mods
    1. EGR delete
    2. PCV catch can
    3. Switch to green coolant
20. Test/Check
    1. Vacuum Switching Valves
    2. Oil pump drive gear thrust play
    3. Timing chain cover for cracks
    4. Cam and valve assemblies for problems related to timing chain failure

 

[120mm]

I've never done this, but I'd be tempted to remove the balancer while it's still in the engine bay, so you can just let the starter torque the bolt off.

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

Heater pipes going down the firewall to the rear heater. Engine out Is the only way to replace these. They get stone chips at the bottom firewall turn to rear heat pipes and rust, then eventually fail Slowly. Also every rubber hose on your engine and Items connected to said engine. Good Luck..!

 

[jeffro109]

Definitely refresh the coolant system (water pump, heater hoses by the firewall, PHH will be super easy now, heater control valve), rebuild parts for PS pump and starter would not add much cost, distributor O-ring, this could be easier than a piece meal approach

 

[alia176]

Bryan,

I'd create a list on your first post and continue updating it as more ideas come your way. CruiserDan has a nice gasket kit that he puts together when you tell him what you're doing.

- Be ware of the famous unobtium bronze bushing that is only sold by Landtank. It's in the block and can be damaged if the machine shop "vat" cleans the block with harsh chemicals
- transmission oil pump seal
- transmission output seal
- thoroughly clean the oil cooler that sits on the side of the block, under the exhaust manifold
- reverse flush the cooling system and the two heater cores
- I replaced my main & con-rod bearings but re-used the piston O rings
- all vac hoses
- all coolant hoses (only the ones that are PITA to access). You can replace the easy ones anytime you want after the pocketbook recovers
- starter contact rebuild
- alternator brush rebuild
- replace the ECU harness. Our old harness does NOT appreciate the abuse it gets after 20 years of being stationery. If you plan on hanging on to your 80 for a long time, I'd replace the ECU harness. Sometimes, gremlins come up after tweaking the old harness.
- EGR delete - even though you live in CA, the Mud board has the means of fooling the OBD-II into thinking that the EGR system is fully operational. Keeps the intake clean
- PCV catch can - Keeps the intake clean

In case you weren't aware, if you remove the radiator, and the top structure, you can then lay the A/C condenser down so that you can pull the engine/tranny out. Move the A/C condenser and lay it on the passenger fender well.

I'll update my post as I think of more things.

 

[half k cruiser]

Some ideas for you the BIG RED Restoration !

 

[jeffro109]

Also: PS hoses, replace the oil cover seal and screws, switch to green coolant, belts of course while you put it back together with general tune up items like plugs/wires, exhaust manifold to Y pipe gaskets and perhaps studs depending on your rust condition, fuel filter while the intake is off and there are a couple of small heater hoses under the intake too.

 

[TrickyT]

...

10. ECU harness - NOT excited about this one! And appears to be NLA for 40th

...​

The most important point here is that you need to carefully inspect the harness near where is passes the EGR valve and pipe. Heat from the EGR makes the insulation on the harness wires brittle and it can easily crack and the wires short together. So carefully remove the tape wrapping the bundle of wires in that area, separate the wires, and inspect for damage. If the insulation is damage electrical tape can be used to repair it. After inspection/repair, wrap that area of the harness with heat-resistant cloth like the stuff you get at Summit Racing.

​

 

[ewillis]

First time I've heard of a timing chain snapping...sucks but on the bright side, you'll have a fresh engine once you're finished!

 

[baldilocks]

If it is rubber, replace it period, fuel filter, test VSV's, and other sensors. I would definitely have the head rebuilt now if you are positive your valve guides leak. Inspect the motor mounts.
I replaced the harness in my 94 last spring. It's not a big deal especially since you will need to disconnect all the connectors at the harness end user connectors to pull the engine anyway which is the most difficult part. Unplugging it from the ECU and pulling the harness through the firewall is a piece of cake.
I would think you can still purchase a 97 harness since I was able to get a brand new OEM harness for my 94. I got my harness from Cruiserparts.com. Cheers

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Good luck man, I read your stranded thread, looking forward to watching this one.

Do not forget Thermostat, have your radiator cleaned really well, new rad cap, and I second switching to green, the cost and availability of toyota red makes it a PITA.

You mentioned EGR delete. Can you delete the EGR in CA?

Delete rear heater unless you need it for kiddo's. It is easy to bypass and easy to add it again.

Fuel filter, fuel tank sock.

Have your fuel injectors serviced.

 

[bloc]

@cruiserdan @beno Are you guys aware of the substantive differences in a 40th anniv harness? Can it be swapped with a LX harness? Even if it requires moving some pins around it may be worth it to have fresh plugs.. though personally I'd just repair/retape my existing one. See BEST wiring harness tape for some better-than-factory (IMO) options on harness tape.

 

[Pin_Head]

Follow the FSM for engine disassembly and reassembly. Check the oil pump drive gear thrust play and check the timing chain cover for cracks caused by the failure. Replace the timing chain cover / oil pump assembly if either one is bad. They run about $300.

Check cam and valve assemblies for problems that may have caused or contributed to the chain failure.

 

[bryanb]

Just following up on these questions in particular. Would like to get your feedback.

My indicator light above my voltmeter is RED. I don't recall it being red before the incident. I charged the battery to full according to my charger a few days ago, but the indicator is still red. Does the trucks inability to start and run the alternator perhaps have to do with the ECU thinking something is wrong?

It is pretty smelly on startup and idling (not a fuel smell so much as just a lot of exhaust). You could also see a little smoke sometime on start up. It barely passed smog last time. My compression numbers are good, although I haven't performed a leak down test and the truck only burns 1/2qt per 1000 miles. Is it common for these things to leak through the valve guides or seals? If a fresh head may resolve these things, I'll consider doing it.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

The indicator light will be red until the rig is started or the voltage is low.

 

[Azca]

As long as the head was not badly warped, rebuild it. Oil is more than likely getting by the seals causing the symptoms you have. Also take a GOOD LONG look at this thread from landtank, there are SEVERAL parts that are not included in the rebuild kit or may be missing, awesome thread: 1FZFE overhaul

Another good thread by landtank: crank sensor?

Black project engine build: Black Project 80 Engine Build Thread

My last thread after my rebuild with suggestions: Engine pull and rebuild, final thoughts…

Good time for making lemonade from lemons. Pull the engine and due all the PM you can think of and you will have an engine that is good for another 15 years at least. Sure is satisfying knowing you are good to go and not to add oil every 750 miles.

Good luck!