PTO Winch Information (1 Viewer)

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Find an agricultural mechanic , then can cut , fix and balance your shaft.
I had mine done for approx 200 €
 
Bolted one on today...
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Does anyone have information regarding the orientation of the PTO gear in the T case? The gear appears symmetrical dimensionally in terms of the gear teeth being centered on its overall thickness, but has a smaller diameter turned on one side for something. Maybe it will become obvious when I pull T case apart. I like going into a project with full understanding.

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@mrboatman thank you! The machined radius towards the front. I just pulled my T case. I was told Removing the T case by itself couldn't be done. It was a dance, but it came off. Putting it back in, lining up the gears and not damaging the seal will be a fun challenge.

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For those wanting to install the PTO gear, it CAN be done on a 4 speed setup without pulling the trans. It's a challenge, but if you take your time it can be done with no issues.

Also, I have seen many guesses as to how much cable will fit the drum. I put 125' of 3/8" EIP Steel on mine. Anymore and the drum would be overfilled.
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For the record, the OEM PTO winch held 50 meters of 8mm wire rope (165 ft of 5/16") plus 1 meter (3 ft) of 10mm (3/8") chain with a slip hook.
"Unfurled" the cable on my OEM PTO winch. I'm in the process of refurbishing it, and needed to remove the cable in order to clean up and paint the drum.

For the record, I measured the length of the OEM cable (I've owned the winch since brand new in the crate, purchased from a dealer in Flagstaff, AZ in 1979.)

The 8mm cable is 50 meters (165 ft) long spliced to an eye holding a 3 ft chain with a slip hook on the end.

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A tape measurement came in at 167 ft. (see below) but there were a couple waves in the line that would have added the additional foot:

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Has anyone been able to source snap rings for the pillow block bearings? One of my two has rotted away...
90521-55007 seems to be NLA and all of the snap rings I've found online close to the size are 2mm thick instead of the 1mm that it measures.

Thanks!
 
I did but I forget where.
Probably McMaster Carr.
 
Here's the parts I used for rebuilding my PTO driveshaft:

U-Joints: Precision U-Joint #395 (from the OP)
Pillow Block Bearings: SKF 6205-2RSH
Snap Rings: McMaster-Carr 92479A180
Large Seal: Timken 34x55x9-R2LS32-S
Small Seal: Timken 30x40x7-R2LS32-S


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Referring back to the OP, the #395 u-joints are the smaller ones for later model winch arrangements, correct?


Is your winch single direction or double direction ?
 
Single output meaning a driven flange only exiting the front of the pto gearbox mounted to the xfer case?

Is the control lever in the cab "wind-neutral-unwind"? Or just two positions?
 
Single output meaning a driven flange only exiting the front of the pto gearbox mounted to the xfer case?

Is the control lever in the cab "wind-neutral-unwind"? Or just two positions?
Yes, single output meaning only one drive flange coming out of the pto box that comes off of the side of the transfer case, and also just two positions for the PTO control lever, on and off. Forward gears in the transmission winds, and reverse unwinds.
 
Anyone know where to source the larger U-joints for the PTO driveshaft? for a 1977 HJ45, wind-neutral-unwind type PTO. not sure if have the larger or smaller u-joint as i have no comparison, but OP stated after 1982 toyota switched to the smaller type, so the precision #395 is not going to work for me i guess.
 
So I have a Series 80 rig with original PTO winch. I used it recently to get unstuck from trying to cross a small landslide in Costa Rica. It worked perfectly. But afterward we noticed a new rattle under the truck. I crawled under last night and I think I have ID'd the rattle as the PTO shaft for the winch.

I saw mention in this thread that the u-joint tend to be "sloppy" but this looks excessive, no? How would I fix this?

 
That's not normal, as least not on mine. Hard to believe the pto splines are worn that much though.
 
The male splined end indicates it has moved in and out of the female splines. Since this isn't a driveshaft connecting a transfer case to a moving up-and-down axle, I don't understand why there should be lateral movement like that. Is one of the carrier bearings dislodged, or is anything else loose in the winch drivetrain?

I suspect that increased engagement of the two splined parts would significantly reduce the 'wiggle' you are seeing.
 

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