Projecting, tinkering, fiddle-farting around: whatcha building? (5 Viewers)

[The Jade Bean]

So, what body is it?

I actually work with these guys: Acme Car Company - https://acmecarco.com/

They own Berrien Buggy, make their own tube frame chassis, have developed an EcoTec powered version call the GTX, and have recently reintroduced the Empi Imp body.

They have a dealer in Texas: 109 Dune Buggies - http://109dunebuggies.com/

Faron and Melissa Smith are good people.

Oh that’s cool. No idea which one it is. The sand rail was built locally about 10yrs ago and never used. My father in law took it as payment thinking he’d drive it on Washington Island when he’s at his house there, but you can’t make a tube frame street legal there. So I found this buggy shell and frame online locally and we are swapping essentially everything worth while. I found seats online used, the tube motor is/was newly redone. I cut up the tube to make a rear roll bar and front windshield. My father in law is fairly cheap so he won’t let me spend much so I have to do my best. I want a front window frame, but he doesn’t wanna spend $300+ on one and I just got him to agree to buying a tank to go under the bonnet. I’m just trying to get it done so I can get it out of my driveway and get back to working on my LC.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Dash cut, front bar mocked and wheels actually on.

 

[DRANGED]

Dash cut, front bar mocked and wheels actually on. View attachment 2905972View attachment 2905973View attachment 2905974

yer tall, is this buggy fer the kidz?

 

[The Jade Bean]

yer tall, is this buggy fer the kidz?

It was the way I was sitting to brace the front roll bar with my knees.

 

[PAToyota]

Oh that’s cool. No idea which one it is.

Our "history guy" says from your pictures it looks like it could be a California Clipper or Sand Winder but that he'd need to see the rear end to be sure.

By the way, Faron is the guy behind the "Save the Texas Dune Buggy" movement: Save the Texas Dune Buggy, Sandrail & Kitcar – We are here to amend Administrative Rule 217.3 - http://savethetexasdunebuggy.com/

 

[The Jade Bean]

Our "history guy" says from your pictures it looks like it could be a California Clipper or Sand Winder but that he'd need to see the rear end to be sure.

By the way, Faron is the guy behind the "Save the Texas Dune Buggy" movement: Save the Texas Dune Buggy, Sandrail & Kitcar – We are here to amend Administrative Rule 217.3 - http://savethetexasdunebuggy.com/

So frustrating how they always want to take away something that has been fine for a long time!!

 

[The Jade Bean]

@PAToyota heres some other pics. Thank you for the insight!

 

[PAToyota]

Ok, I'm told it is a Sandwinder built by JC Fiberglass in California. They were one of the production facilities for the EMPI Imp kits. They did the California Clipper and Sandwinder on their own. The body and hood is similar on each, but the rear is different. The SandWinder had a standard style Manx Tail.

Dune Buggy Archives: Sandwinder Registry

www.dunebuggyarchives.com

Dune Buggy Archives: JC Fiberglass Registry

www.dunebuggyarchives.com

Acme also has a FB group for discussion topics or questions relating to Buggies, Kit Cars, or VWs in general: ACME Car Company Emporium- Buggies, Sandrails, Kitcars and More... - https://www.facebook.com/groups/224806029205762

 

[DRANGED]

continuing the downstairs chimney destruction that we started last May ... took down about 5-6 ft of block this afternoon...

 

[DRANGED]

I LOVE using up a refill! It's one satisfying presentation of adulthood, using the ink before losing the pen!

I've developed a thing for Zebra pens. . .

 

[The Jade Bean]

View attachment 2904107

I LOVE using up a refill! It's one satisfying presentation of adulthood, using the ink before losing the pen!
View attachment 2910711

I've developed a thing for Zebra pens. . .

It’s weird what becomes satisfying as an adult.

 

[DRANGED]

Merits and choice features each has ..

 

[DRANGED]

Trying to finally finish the “repair” of my vintage roaster. View attachment 2901893View attachment 2901894View attachment 2901895

Why filling the vent holes?

 

[DRANGED]

With the corner desk comes want for an ambient lamp..... I guess i make lamps for my kids

Base frame is an equilateral pyramid. I 'think' I can get a lamp kit for it (just not locally).
View attachment 2863598View attachment 2863596View attachment 2863597

Moar progress on the equilateral pyramid lamp tonight.

 

[DRANGED]

Nearly there....

*EDIT*
Added frosted sheeting to plexiglass and cut to fit. Rattle can bronze hammered finish paint, and Epoxied Plexiglas in place.

3.3 w ventige candelabra base LED bulb

 

[The Jade Bean]

Why filling the vent holes?

They were to big and some smaller beans would fly out during roast. Unfortunately the bond didn’t take as well as I hoped. When re-drilling through the filler it would crack. So it’s a bust. I’ll return it back to factory and I’ll have to roast in a skillet for now. Eventually I’ll build a new roaster.

 

[Hack]

Bandsaw Upgrade Time: Adding a Kreg fence to my 14" Harbor Freight bandsaw.

Disassembled saw, removed table, cleaned everything out. It took a bit of time to get the correct location for drilling/tapping the mounting bolts. The HF bandsaw does not have the raised cast sections that are drilled/tapped like so many other machines. It is imperative to locate the bracket at least 1/16" below the miter gauge slot. On mine, it's closer to 3/32". Failure to do this, will result in: not being able to use the miter slot (if too high), and the fence attachment bracket, will not clear the table top (if too low). There is some adjustment, as the mounting bracket has slots, rather than holes.

Edit: The correct measurement below the miter slot is 1/8" (or slightly more), this is due to the HF saw using a 5/8" (wide) x 5/16" (deep) miter slot. The Kreg instructions are written for the more common 3/4" x 3/8" slots. The point being that the top of the side bracket needs to be low enough, so the sliding (clamping) bracket on the fence, will clear the top of the table. Mine is 'around' 9/64" below the slot, which provides the clearance necessary, without needing to drill the holes in the table too close to the edge.

After marking the correct placement for the holes, I set up the table in my drill press. Center punched the locations, used a center drill to start, then a number 7 drill for the 14-20 threads.

As there are no raised bosses for adding a fence, I needed to space out the rail for the sliding bracket to have clearance. Some 1/8" thick bushings did this nicely. New hardware, I used the provided 1/4" washers, but added some split washers.

Added a Kreg micro-adjust to the fence, laid down the measuring tape, and I'm calling this done. For now....

 

[DRANGED]

They were to big and some smaller beans would fly out during roast. Unfortunately the bond didn’t take as well as I hoped. When re-drilling through the filler it would crack. So it’s a bust. I’ll return it back to factory and I’ll have to roast in a skillet for now. Eventually I’ll build a new roaster.

could you line the inside with a mesh, not quite screen but ... ?

 

[The Jade Bean]

could you line the inside with a mesh, not quite screen but ... ?

That was a thought, but I think beans could get stuck and just burn.

 

[waiting for time]

Working on my belt grinder
.

work in progress.