3 / n:
Tachometer: To get your dash tach to work with Mitch's 4 pulses / rev output - check out post 4,011 here:
8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/page-201. The Toyota tach is calibrated for 3 pulses / rev, but you can adjust the variable resistor on the tach circuit board to calibrate for 4 pulses / rev. With combination meter out of the dash, taking the tach out of it is 3 screws. Then just get out a multimeter and small screwdriver to adjust and test. It's a very slight counter clockwise adjustment -- maybe 20 deg. I then ran some extra wire off the black wire into the combination meter that drives the tach to connect to Mitch’s lead. Many thanks
@NeverFinis for bench testing this with a wave generator and finding out the appropriate resistances.
[Update] - For clarity, neverfinis lays out the resistances you want to get between the ABC points on the board that he highlights. You don’t need the wave generator box. He did the work for us in replicating the signal in and figuring out what adjustments will give you a decently accurate output. Set your multimeter to the right level of sensitivity (ohms) and adjust / test / adjust / test.
CEL: The check engine light is an easy connection to make off the combination meter. I cut and extended the Y-R wire to run to Mitch’s lead. I think this light may turn on when I engage the Tow Mode, but that will be fine.
Tow Mode: There seems to be a dearth of 80 Series style aftermarket switches out there (if you know any more please let me know). You'll want a momentary (on) / off switch. Air On Board sells a few flavors of 80s switches though nothing blank. I got one marked for a garage door and some stickers to cover over "Garage Door".
Tap Shift: I ordered a 3D printed switch plate with a cutout for a USB A cable from Solve Function (I did not realize, I'd actually get the USB A cable as well - will figure out something to do with it) and trying to find the right size momentary (on) off (on) switch from Digikey that will fit into the cut out. The plan here is to put this tap shift button where the OD / 2nd buttons used to be on the shifter console (or maybe somewhere else if that turns out to be less than ideal).
Cruise Control: I bought a Rostra cruise control kit from
www.thecruisecontrolstore.com. I got a universal RH side stalk and the “Cruise Control for GM LS Drive by Wire ETC Engines.” The kit is relatively easy to install, but note that there is a bit of a missing step in the instructions to mate the stalk to the control unit. From the stalk wires to the CCU connector, Green = pin 1 / Set; Yellow = pin 2 / Res; Brown = pin 3 / On-Off; Red & Blue = pin 6 12v; Black = pin 8 GND. The truck pedal I ordered from Mitch appears to be the right match to the pedal interface plugs of the Rostra kit. I'll also connect the On-Off wire to the “Cruise” light in the combination meter and there are a bunch of other wires you’ve got to tap to make it all work.
With some finessing, the universal stalk and its wire / mounting nuts will fit into the little plastic mounting box for the Toyota stalk and is totally unobtrusive on the column.
Note: I am going to use Mitch's MCM speedo lead to feed this CCU vehicle speed, but I'm just running the combination meter VSS off the transfer case for the speedo on the dashboard.
[A different set of big guns to put the LT in. Many thanks
@matzell @Landshark @mess331470 @Beach80 and
@captainva for some hands and tools to get this done. Note that you'll want to extend that arm out to 1 ton to actually get the engine in and I would install only the first piece of the PS pump bracket before install and bolt in pump after you've got the engine in the bay.
P.S.A. - join your local TLCA club!]
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