I’m already stumped on it
Build Project Wintergreen - '97 FZJ80 Gen V 6.2 Swap - Richmond, VA
- Thread starter RICVirginiaHJ61
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- Thread starter
- #22
I'd go rig up a test, but I have actually cut all the wires I connected yesterday to get it to start and disconnected the battery to go clean up some more hot wire deletes. I might be able to give it a test shot Saturday. I believe @NeverFinis has at least bench tested the adjustments, not sure if he's got his truck running.I’m already stumped on it
I did eventually reinstall the tach into the dash, run the engine and confirmed that the tach agrees with HP Tuners. This is with the Gen V Muscle Car Module outputting a 12V tach signal. It has been awhile and maybe I should take pictures and screen grabs of HP Tuners with the engine running.
Here is the adjusted tach installed in the dash, and SwapTime Muscle Car Module. The latter is connected to the GM OBDII wires and outputs a 12V pulse signal and sends the tach signal to the Toyota harness. I can get more specific with the wiring if wanted.
Just took these a few moments ago. Idle and 3000 RPM.
Close enough for government work.
Just took these a few moments ago. Idle and 3000 RPM.
Close enough for government work.
Dude thank you, I’ll be removing the tach next week sometime to knock this out!Here is the adjusted tach installed in the dash, and SwapTime Muscle Car Module. The latter is connected to the GM OBDII wires and outputs a 12V pulse signal and sends the tach signal to the Toyota harness. I can get more specific with the wiring if wanted.
Just took these a few moments ago. Idle and 3000 RPM.
View attachment 3639194
View attachment 3639195
View attachment 3639196
View attachment 3639197
Close enough for government work.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I don't have swap time module just standard gm ecm with modified oem harness. I did everything we spoke about in the other thread bench tested to the correct ohms this didn't work for me so I bypassed the resistor on the tach module still no dice then added a step up resistor and worked but was off . I then drilled a hole in the gage cluster so I could use a small screwdriver to adjust the pot 9n the board while tach was installed in the cluster.Here is the adjusted tach installed in the dash, and SwapTime Muscle Car Module. The latter is connected to the GM OBDII wires and outputs a 12V pulse signal and sends the tach signal to the Toyota harness. I can get more specific with the wiring if wanted.
Just took these a few moments ago. Idle and 3000 RPM.
View attachment 3639194
View attachment 3639195
View attachment 3639196
View attachment 3639197
Close enough for government work.
Tommy
Excellent work @RICVirginiaHJ61 - looks like you're almost there! Glad to see our kits are being used for these swaps
In the end, did it work?
A Gen III/IV GM ECM should be able to drive the Toyota tach, just incorrectly.
I would try the pull up resistor before bypassing the resistor on the Toyota tach. To me, the former is simplier to implement and it should provide a stronger pulse. Start with a 5K resistor, and work your way to 1K until it works. I am assuming that the GM ECM is outputting 5V pulses, rather than the 12V pulses Toyota's tach is expecting.
You are more than welcome to ask me questions on my build thread to avoid derailing this build thread.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Yeah I got it working almost a month ago. 3k resistor. You have a build thread? The 80 I'm working on is a customer's so no build thread have lots of pictures tho.
Great! Build thread is in my signature Builds - LX450 "Rex" Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx450-rex-build.1254004/
- Thread starter
- #31
Got a fair bit done today! Installed what looks to be the perfect (non remote reservoir) power steering pump. The inlets stay within the profile of the reservoir, which is fantastic if you’re doing a hydroboost set up and want 2, and you’re jammed for space.
This was after a really stupid mistake putting on the pulley backwards yesterday evening. After some attempts with a 3 jaw puller and some angle grinding, I took the pump core off of my bent up ac delco reservoir and popped it into the slim profile Borgeson reservoir and put on a new pulley (the right way). Probably the dumbest mistake of the whole project —— so far.
The Mishimoto flexible steel radiator hoses are a great idea, but not for tight spaces. I suppose it speaks to their quality that they won’t collapse on themselves to make tight elbows. I made upper radiator run work, but not sure i’ll keep it this way. Lower run will be some silicone couplers, billet joiners and a length of plain old reinforced rubber hose that I ordered from Summit today.
Installed new radiators and @torfab ’s fan and shroud — almost looking like a real car again.
Also got the oem hood rod kit installed (so easy), but as you can see in the picture apparently one new strut actually does a great job keeping the hood up (my two old ones could not). @davidp14
Was getting tired of wiring, so put that on pause for today, and think I may get my brake booster and master cylinder sorted before i clean everything up in the bay.
Also replaced an absurdly disintegrated radiator drain cock on the HJ61. I don’t know how it got that bad or how it kept the leak to only a slow drip.
This was after a really stupid mistake putting on the pulley backwards yesterday evening. After some attempts with a 3 jaw puller and some angle grinding, I took the pump core off of my bent up ac delco reservoir and popped it into the slim profile Borgeson reservoir and put on a new pulley (the right way). Probably the dumbest mistake of the whole project —— so far.
The Mishimoto flexible steel radiator hoses are a great idea, but not for tight spaces. I suppose it speaks to their quality that they won’t collapse on themselves to make tight elbows. I made upper radiator run work, but not sure i’ll keep it this way. Lower run will be some silicone couplers, billet joiners and a length of plain old reinforced rubber hose that I ordered from Summit today.
Installed new radiators and @torfab ’s fan and shroud — almost looking like a real car again.
Also got the oem hood rod kit installed (so easy), but as you can see in the picture apparently one new strut actually does a great job keeping the hood up (my two old ones could not). @davidp14
Was getting tired of wiring, so put that on pause for today, and think I may get my brake booster and master cylinder sorted before i clean everything up in the bay.
Also replaced an absurdly disintegrated radiator drain cock on the HJ61. I don’t know how it got that bad or how it kept the leak to only a slow drip.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Not swap related, but in addition to the blown 1fzfe, this truck had / has some rust issues. I was perusing @NeverFinis ’ build thread and he’s got me inspired to get the welder out and finish some of what I have left to do in that regard.
After I bought the truck, I stripped down everything inside and out and found some alarming “speed holes” in my rear passenger wheel arch, quarter panel tubs and the driver-side dogleg. I sent the truck to a guy here in Richmond with a dry ice blasting machine to go to town on the undercarriage. Not cheap, but amazing results and mercifully did not reveal new problems!
I got a refurbished lincoln mig welder and gas, watched some videos, practiced with a little kit, and then started with the least structural / cosmetic / safety important spot first (and rewatched a bunch more videos). First lesson learned was cut easy to weld patches & holes (not the smallest ones you can get away with). Second lesson was have the patience to start over. Third, you’re probably not going to get all that good at this very fast.
I also opted for fiber glassing one tub hole where I could get away with it. Sometime over the next couple weeks, I’m going to try again at the other one with the cuts I have from @matzell ’s parts truck and do the plug welds up on the roof. The plan is to leave the dogleg for the body shop that I have paint this thing once it’s driving again. I’ll do as much of the prep as I can to help keep costs down here.
After I bought the truck, I stripped down everything inside and out and found some alarming “speed holes” in my rear passenger wheel arch, quarter panel tubs and the driver-side dogleg. I sent the truck to a guy here in Richmond with a dry ice blasting machine to go to town on the undercarriage. Not cheap, but amazing results and mercifully did not reveal new problems!
I got a refurbished lincoln mig welder and gas, watched some videos, practiced with a little kit, and then started with the least structural / cosmetic / safety important spot first (and rewatched a bunch more videos). First lesson learned was cut easy to weld patches & holes (not the smallest ones you can get away with). Second lesson was have the patience to start over. Third, you’re probably not going to get all that good at this very fast.
I also opted for fiber glassing one tub hole where I could get away with it. Sometime over the next couple weeks, I’m going to try again at the other one with the cuts I have from @matzell ’s parts truck and do the plug welds up on the roof. The plan is to leave the dogleg for the body shop that I have paint this thing once it’s driving again. I’ll do as much of the prep as I can to help keep costs down here.
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- Thread starter
- #33
Started with the rearmost wheel well hole. Not a lot of photos of this stuff bc I was embarrassed with the results. Got better as I went along. That is a new seatbelt receiver nut below — one of those weld in plates. Planning on putting the rear bumper wings back on to cover up my work back there.
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- Thread starter
- #34
Dry ice machine at work! And one more rust repair photo.
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Great job! The dry ice blasting is a neat process.
Welding thin metal, like sheet metal, is hard.
What I have slowly learned.
I would like to try silicon bronze wire the next time I need to weld thin sheet metal. It welds below the melting point of steel, which means no blow throughs and less heat deformation. I wouldn't use it where strength is required (seat bolt anchor).
Welding thin metal, like sheet metal, is hard.
What I have slowly learned.
- Grind/sand all weldable surfaces until shiny and then wipe down with acetone, even if it looks clean.
- Do not use brake cleaner
- Use a series of small tacks, rather than running a bead, on thin metal.
- Patience..let the last tack cool a bit
- Make sure your ground is good.
I would like to try silicon bronze wire the next time I need to weld thin sheet metal. It welds below the melting point of steel, which means no blow throughs and less heat deformation. I wouldn't use it where strength is required (seat bolt anchor).
Nice job.
I had holes in the same place on the rear fenders. I wonder if that's common or just a coincidence?
Agree 100% on the small tack method on thin metal. I've definitely fallen prey to running more of a stitch weld on parts that are not visible though. One other thing I find useful is to have an air nozzle handy to cool welds (and put out small fires...). I learned this from a body guy.
I had holes in the same place on the rear fenders. I wonder if that's common or just a coincidence?
Agree 100% on the small tack method on thin metal. I've definitely fallen prey to running more of a stitch weld on parts that are not visible though. One other thing I find useful is to have an air nozzle handy to cool welds (and put out small fires...). I learned this from a body guy.
- Thread starter
- #37
Very common. Lots of layers in those spots and the moisture gets in and doesnt get out.
- Thread starter
- #38
Productive weekend of some plumbing & wiring! Some notes for anyone following behind.
On the 10L80 and 8L90 the rearmost port is the hot / outlet for the ATF. Took more googling than it should have to find this bit of information. Running the ATF from the transmission through the ports in the radiator and then to the secondary cooler and back. I wanted to know which was hot / outlet so I could connect that line to the top port of my aftermarket secondary cooler, which is mounted horizontally.
I got my hydroboost in the mail, but need to make a mounting bracket. It looks like manafre and marks4wd include them in their kits,but I found a shop with a blank ([SR] Universal Hydroboost Anti-Spin Mounting Adapter Plate fits Bendix / Bosch - https://www.streetrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SRX_Bendix_Univ_HydroboostMnt-B). Once I get the blank, I'll use the gasket off the Toyota vacuum brake booster as a stencil and should be good-to-go.
Update: After drilling the absolute perfectly centered rectangle into the blank, I realized I was 90 deg off and the blank was about an inch too narrow to actually drill the rectangle the other way. I took the square drilled plate that came with the booster and was able to make two clean upper mounting bolt holes and two rather ugly oversized ones on the bottom where the Toyota rectangle holes overlapped with the standard square. If I was starting over, I'd email Manafre to see if they'd sell me just their mounting plate -- seem like helpful people, bet they would. The issue to not being able to just use a piece of square or rectangular steel is the precision in making the center hole and its notch to ensure the booster doesn't spin.
The Rostra stalk has a little LED on it for on/off, so you can skip this step if you're adding cruise control, but don't care about the dash light. I kinda wanted that light to come on.To -- I hope -- get this to work I bought a latching relay (HELLA 933364027) which if I wired everything correctly should turn the dash light on with the "on" push of the stalk button and turn it off with the "off" push. Pin 3 gets the G-Y wire running out of pin 9 on connector C10 on the combination meter; pin 5 to ground; pin 6 is 12V; pin 1 and pin 2 each get tied into the on-off button circuit of the rostra kit. The red circle is essentially now replaced by the Hella relay.
Update: Per the usual for me with circuits & relays, my first go at figuring them out is usually dead wrong. There might be a good way to use a latching relay here, but my idea was not it. I was digging into some rostra wiring diagrams for their dash push-button set up (https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/content/3592-3593.pdf) and wondering about an extra orange wire on the CCU. When set up in a relay with the "engage light" option on that switch, the orange wire goes to ground when CC is engaged closing a circuit to turn on the engage LED. That diagram shows a 5 pin relay (and I may be wrong again here too), but uses only 4. I had a small 4 pin relay on the bench, so I've re-set this up as follows. 12V ignition into the relay coil // orange CCU wire on ground side of coil and 12V G-Y on the + side of the switch // ground on the other. This should have my dash light replicate the engage light of that switch.
On air conditioning, @NeverFinis @mattnandie and I have pow-wowed in DMs and are hooking the swaptime lead further downstream in the circuit than I had initially thought. EY1 is the 3 pin connector with the other two pins for the oil pressure connector (near the passenger side headlights part of the non-engine/transmission harness). Matt's the closest - I think - to being able to test it all out.
TBD whether there is / isn't screwy behavior from the AC amplifier boards operating in a V8 environment and without the Toyota ECU. This section of the Lexus 450 EWD gives me a little pause, but going to have to get it running and troubleshoot from there.
UPDATE: Per Matt - this works like a charm and no strange issues.
On the 10L80 and 8L90 the rearmost port is the hot / outlet for the ATF. Took more googling than it should have to find this bit of information. Running the ATF from the transmission through the ports in the radiator and then to the secondary cooler and back. I wanted to know which was hot / outlet so I could connect that line to the top port of my aftermarket secondary cooler, which is mounted horizontally.
I got my hydroboost in the mail, but need to make a mounting bracket. It looks like manafre and marks4wd include them in their kits,
Update: After drilling the absolute perfectly centered rectangle into the blank, I realized I was 90 deg off and the blank was about an inch too narrow to actually drill the rectangle the other way. I took the square drilled plate that came with the booster and was able to make two clean upper mounting bolt holes and two rather ugly oversized ones on the bottom where the Toyota rectangle holes overlapped with the standard square. If I was starting over, I'd email Manafre to see if they'd sell me just their mounting plate -- seem like helpful people, bet they would. The issue to not being able to just use a piece of square or rectangular steel is the precision in making the center hole and its notch to ensure the booster doesn't spin.
The Rostra stalk has a little LED on it for on/off, so you can skip this step if you're adding cruise control, but don't care about the dash light. I kinda wanted that light to come on.
Update: Per the usual for me with circuits & relays, my first go at figuring them out is usually dead wrong. There might be a good way to use a latching relay here, but my idea was not it. I was digging into some rostra wiring diagrams for their dash push-button set up (https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/content/3592-3593.pdf) and wondering about an extra orange wire on the CCU. When set up in a relay with the "engage light" option on that switch, the orange wire goes to ground when CC is engaged closing a circuit to turn on the engage LED. That diagram shows a 5 pin relay (and I may be wrong again here too), but uses only 4. I had a small 4 pin relay on the bench, so I've re-set this up as follows. 12V ignition into the relay coil // orange CCU wire on ground side of coil and 12V G-Y on the + side of the switch // ground on the other. This should have my dash light replicate the engage light of that switch.
On air conditioning, @NeverFinis @mattnandie and I have pow-wowed in DMs and are hooking the swaptime lead further downstream in the circuit than I had initially thought. EY1 is the 3 pin connector with the other two pins for the oil pressure connector (near the passenger side headlights part of the non-engine/transmission harness). Matt's the closest - I think - to being able to test it all out.
TBD whether there is / isn't screwy behavior from the AC amplifier boards operating in a V8 environment and without the Toyota ECU. This section of the Lexus 450 EWD gives me a little pause, but going to have to get it running and troubleshoot from there.
UPDATE: Per Matt - this works like a charm and no strange issues.
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- Thread starter
- #39
Engine bay is looking better!
Cabin is not… (yet)
Cabin is not… (yet)
- Thread starter
- #40