Yes, flip flops! I started rocking those too. I’m ready for spring.
Builds Project Pikachu: 1977 FJ40 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cbmontgo
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- Thread starter
- #1,162
Me, too. That's part of my daily uniform from about March to early December!
That happened to me too on goose creek road a couple of weeks ago. Locking hubs did not get me out though. Thankfully I was with a buddy and a quick strap did the job.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,166
So I had a little bit of a scare over the weekend. My usual drip at the oil pan drain plug had coolant drops mixed with the oil drops on the floor. Not good.
Turned out to be a small leak on a heater hose connection at the firewall, which had traveled down the transmission hump, along the edge of the floorboard and dripped near the bottom of the engine. Sometimes it's the simple stuff, thank goodness.
Turned out to be a small leak on a heater hose connection at the firewall, which had traveled down the transmission hump, along the edge of the floorboard and dripped near the bottom of the engine. Sometimes it's the simple stuff, thank goodness.
Today was big week, got my engine started for the first time in 2 years; ontop of a fresh rebuild.
Bored .40 over and a few other goodies
Bored .40 over and a few other goodies
- Thread starter
- #1,169
Rig is running a little hot on the highway again. First time it has done this since last year.
It seems to settle down back to normal operating temp in town, but runs at the "C" mark on this diagram on the highway but doesn't seem to go higher than that. Water pump is a 7 year old Aisin, thermostat and fan clutch are only a year old. Coolant is clean.
Thoughts?
It seems to settle down back to normal operating temp in town, but runs at the "C" mark on this diagram on the highway but doesn't seem to go higher than that. Water pump is a 7 year old Aisin, thermostat and fan clutch are only a year old. Coolant is clean.
Thoughts?
Maybe do some IR gun testing versus relying on the old gauge.
Do you have a working overflow bottle?
- Thread starter
- #1,171
The overflow bottle has coolant in it, but I don't totally trust this aluminum radiator cap.
I have a new OEM radiator on the shelf and am very tempted to swap it in.
Easy swap. Do it. I’ve never had a fully OEM 40 setup run hot.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Give the wire on the temperature sender a wiggle, maybe a little crusty.
Have you ever pulled the block drain to see if your coolant is fully flowing back there?
- Thread starter
- #1,175
I haven’t. I have only drained it at the radiator main lower hose up to this point.
Yank it out. If it gushes out stick it back in real quick.
If not, you get to clean the passage with a coat hanger
- Thread starter
- #1,177
Roger that. I sure will.
- Thread starter
- #1,178
Pulled the block drain and she flowed like a river. Was pumped about that. Drained what must have been over 3 gallons of coolant and it looked good. Thanks for that suggestion @wngrog.
Unboxed this beautiful OEM part.
And in. Just need to buy new coolant and we'll see how she does.
Unboxed this beautiful OEM part.
And in. Just need to buy new coolant and we'll see how she does.
good news
If you keep having problems after the radiator swap you might want to look at doing a citric acid flush. Did one on the 1KZ and it pulled some sludge out of the block and that engine did drain from the side as well.
This might be a little late with the new radiator already in place, but Cruiser Cult makes a sweet little drain extension that takes the newer Land Cruiser drain valve so it is easier and less of a mess to drain the radiator.
This might be a little late with the new radiator already in place, but Cruiser Cult makes a sweet little drain extension that takes the newer Land Cruiser drain valve so it is easier and less of a mess to drain the radiator.
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