- Thread starter
- #1,301
Me and Pig watching for the FedEx man like.......
Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
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- #1,302
Parts came in.
Lou found this entire bushing kit on Rock Auto for $140. The bushings usually cost $35 an axle so for 2x the cost I have all the body mounts too. I’ll tackle that one day....
In the mean time the Energy kit comes with the most wicked tacky grease. I used it. Bushings were nice and tight.
@FJ60Cam had some shackles dropped to me like we used on Lou’s.
Front is done. All the popping I had when steering is gone.
I’ll do the rear tomorrow.
Lou found this entire bushing kit on Rock Auto for $140. The bushings usually cost $35 an axle so for 2x the cost I have all the body mounts too. I’ll tackle that one day....
In the mean time the Energy kit comes with the most wicked tacky grease. I used it. Bushings were nice and tight.
@FJ60Cam had some shackles dropped to me like we used on Lou’s.
Front is done. All the popping I had when steering is gone.
I’ll do the rear tomorrow.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Project Patina has a baby sister. My project is a 1971 FJ in Spring Green Rust. I have been debating what to do w her. Now I know for sure. Exactly like what you have done. I bought her off the original owners son for $450. Had been parked for years without a top. Full of Pine straw and beer cans. She started up and drove onto trailer. That’s a testament. Now all I have to do is finish the other three projects so I can start on her. Engine looks rough but it was a rebuilt some years ago so I have hopes that it is solid. Just need to turn it before it sits too long.
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- #1,304
Heck yes. Save em all
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I will. I am a bit mad at myself for letting this one go down hill so far. When I bought it it started right up and actually drove. Since letting it sit for so long after that time almost all the systems are now shot. Starter frozen. Clutch frozen. Brakes of course we crap. Carburetor shot. Oh well...
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I saw you put disc brakes on the front of PP by doing an axel swap. What is the best way to do this? A complete axle swap? I bought a bunch of parts from a guy who said they were for swapping drums to disc, but it was so long ago I don’t even remember what the process was.
- Thread starter
- #1,307
Hit me offline with pics of what you have.
As long as the front axle is 68 and later you can add late 40, 60, 62 or mini truck brakes to that front axle. Rear drums do fine when working.
- Thread starter
- #1,308
Gold grillz installed in rear now. Amazing how tight it all feels now.
These old bushings are a joke. 2 years of light use. Gone.
These old bushings are a joke. 2 years of light use. Gone.
- Thread starter
- #1,309
The home made roof rack clamps I have been using won’t stay on
170mm FrontRunner feet to the rescue
170mm FrontRunner feet to the rescue
FineWynsFJ40
Too much to do...
I ran in to rack mount problems with my Safari rack. I ended up drilling and bolting them together so they wouldn't rattle loose when driving around on bumpy roads.
Brian
Brian
- Thread starter
- #1,311
Spooling up the mighty 2F
- Thread starter
- #1,312
Jeebus, you guys talk a lot but don't say much. 19 pages and the truck has never run?
Having plowed through most of this thread, here's the answers:
The mystery electric box on the firewall is an ancient hydro electric trailer brake controller. It was teed into a hydraulic brake line and a small piston inside slid the lever sideways and drag the contactor up & down the resistor coil. Throw it in the weeds, then throw rocks after it.
To put the 2F in the F chassis, use the F engine mounts drilled to M12, or use 75-80 2F mounts. Don't go hacking up the 40 frame to put 60 ears in it... oops, too late.
At the back, same deal. Use a 74-80 4speed bell with FJ40 mounts bolted to the side. Unlike the front, these are dimensionally identical over the years, so the 68 rear ears will bolt to a 78 BH, but have the bracketry for the driver-side slave. 55 is different from 40.
To make the engine bolt-in, dress it as an F. Use the nifty 68 manifold & adapter & 1bbl carb & air cleaner. that keeps the throttle, choke, hand throttle all stock & easy. Use a header if you got it, but be aware that clearancing of the header tubes to intake manifold will be necessary because the 68-69 manifold is very close to the head. A combination of dimpling the header tubes w/ a ballpeen and some diegrinder action on the intake will get it done. To clearance the intake & header for the M12 2F fasteners, bolt the pair to a scrap F head using all bolts (no studs). Run a 3/8, then 7/16 then 1/2" drill bit into the mounting holes, one at a time, removing & replacing fasteners as the drill is moved from hole to hole. Follow with a spotface bit to get all the holes level. Boom, intake/exhaust done, just need to bootyfab an exhaust system.
Use any 74-78 fuel pump so the hardline to carb will connect to pump, and it won't have the later return hose to cap off, and it's got eleventeen little PH#2 screws on it which looks correct.
On the cooling, don't use the giant aircon FJ60 lower rad pipe. Use the 68 pipe and 68-76 lower rad hoses. For an upper hose, the 81- hose to fit the t-stat housing is NLA. Force a 68-78 hose in there and keep your eyes out for a 79-80 upper stat housing, they use a standard 90* rad hose.
Remove temp sender & holder from the 68 engine & thread into 81 engine to work with 68 gage.
To keep ignition simple, use the vac advance 1968 dissy & clamp. If changing to a 2F dissy, be sure to use the thinner 2F clamp so it doesn't hold the dissy up off the block.
That's all I got for now, HTH somebody...
Awesome info here
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- #1,313
Born on December 25th to boot
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- #1,314
Another TTT
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Red Head = Testa Rossa.
Clearly, it's a race engine.
Clearly, it's a race engine.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I like the pole barn too. Are those Locust posts? I am planning on a similar structure at our lake home using Locust posts.
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- #1,319
These are cedar harvested from my farm
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Ah, we have used those also. Make beautiful posts. We used them to support our second floor balcony inside and left them natural with an oil finish.
