Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Looks like you forget to weld in the O2 bung before paint! 
- Thread starter
- #1,344
I’ve neglected this project. My excuse was waiting for parts but really it’s because I’ve been slightly obsessed with a shop addition project and didn’t want to break away.
Finally this am while the mother of my children slept, I tore into Patina with a be vengeance
Early steering. Not any options to rebuild the box and limited to Rebuild the center arm ($$$$) so its all coming out in favor of Saginaw.
It’s amazing how nasty all the stuff never touched before was. Reminder of how far I have brought this truck.
I had to cut the header out. One of the reasons this project started. It was resting on the frame.
The engine area is not terribly dirty. Im
Going to clean and paint what I can get to and add Lizard Skin where able to cut down on cab noise and temps
Finally this am while the mother of my children slept, I tore into Patina with a be vengeance
Early steering. Not any options to rebuild the box and limited to Rebuild the center arm ($$$$) so its all coming out in favor of Saginaw.
It’s amazing how nasty all the stuff never touched before was. Reminder of how far I have brought this truck.
I had to cut the header out. One of the reasons this project started. It was resting on the frame.
The engine area is not terribly dirty. Im
Going to clean and paint what I can get to and add Lizard Skin where able to cut down on cab noise and temps
- Thread starter
- #1,345
There are almost no threads on Mud about adding Saginaw to an E-72 steering shaft but it’s been done a few thousand times I know. I ordered all the install parts from @cruiseroutfit. Unlike the normal kits that include the parts for early and late (one kit fits all) he sells just the parts needed.
Today I’ll clean the area good and get it rust Converted and painted. I’ll leave the exhaust stuff off to keep plenty of room to work.
Once the Converter cures I’ll paint the block
Busted out the 1/2” punisher to get the harmonic balancer nut off. Mine has the worst wobble and it’s getting replaced
Today I’ll clean the area good and get it rust Converted and painted. I’ll leave the exhaust stuff off to keep plenty of room to work.
Once the Converter cures I’ll paint the block
Busted out the 1/2” punisher to get the harmonic balancer nut off. Mine has the worst wobble and it’s getting replaced
- Thread starter
- #1,346
Second time I used the puller today. One for the steering wheel and then for this.
Converter cured and I laid some paint
I consulted with Cam on the harmonic balancer and he said beat it and hammer it on with the impact
Done and done.
Oil pan cleaned and painted and I finally after 3 years got the proper front driveshaft in. The one I had was too short. Splines showed at rest but with the minimal movement of my suspension it never separated off road.
Now I’m cleaning under the floorboards for a layer of Lizard Skin sound/heat dampening spray
Converter cured and I laid some paint
I consulted with Cam on the harmonic balancer and he said beat it and hammer it on with the impact
Done and done.
Oil pan cleaned and painted and I finally after 3 years got the proper front driveshaft in. The one I had was too short. Splines showed at rest but with the minimal movement of my suspension it never separated off road.
Now I’m cleaning under the floorboards for a layer of Lizard Skin sound/heat dampening spray
Was this the “Project Patina” truck featured inside the first few pages of this month’s Toyota Trails issue? This inspirational picture drove me to look this up here on mud. Amazing look for a 40!
- Thread starter
- #1,349
- Thread starter
- #1,350
One of my buddies helped Jeff Davis cut out his Saginaw holes last week and offered to come out and cut mine out using his plasma cutter (versus me with a hole saw)
He made quick work of it.
Lou came out in the Goblin to let me look his conversion over.
I also had him cut the rivets off the steering pedestal. I still had to take the sledgehammer to get it off the frame but much easier than a grinder.
He made quick work of it.
Lou came out in the Goblin to let me look his conversion over.
I also had him cut the rivets off the steering pedestal. I still had to take the sledgehammer to get it off the frame but much easier than a grinder.
- Thread starter
- #1,351
Last night I finished prepping the firewall and underside for the Lizard Skin.
On my Warthog Project (link in signature) I removed the motor and did the entire engine bay then painted it back the white it would have been from the factory.
I don’t have the luxury to do That this time but I did want to get the firewall by the exhaust and all under the truck with it on Patina.
This stuff is pretty amazing. It’s a rubberized coating that cuts noise and heat. It really works too. It’s not tough and hard like bedliner so it’s not for places with heavy wear.
I taped off the areas I wanted to stay rusty Spring green and took the spray gun to the rest and laid a couple thick coats down
This is all I’ll do under the hood. The bottom of the tub has a nice coat on it as well.
Next I’m going to remove the tranny hump and clean up the floors real good and spray a layer under the hump and directly under the floor mats inside. I want to preserve all the visible Spring Green I can
This stuff comes in 2 gallon jugs for $200. I used almost a gallon for this. I’ll likely lay down the rest taking care of the hump and the floors inside.
On my Warthog Project (link in signature) I removed the motor and did the entire engine bay then painted it back the white it would have been from the factory.
I don’t have the luxury to do That this time but I did want to get the firewall by the exhaust and all under the truck with it on Patina.
This stuff is pretty amazing. It’s a rubberized coating that cuts noise and heat. It really works too. It’s not tough and hard like bedliner so it’s not for places with heavy wear.
I taped off the areas I wanted to stay rusty Spring green and took the spray gun to the rest and laid a couple thick coats down
This is all I’ll do under the hood. The bottom of the tub has a nice coat on it as well.
Next I’m going to remove the tranny hump and clean up the floors real good and spray a layer under the hump and directly under the floor mats inside. I want to preserve all the visible Spring Green I can
This stuff comes in 2 gallon jugs for $200. I used almost a gallon for this. I’ll likely lay down the rest taking care of the hump and the floors inside.
@wngrog
somewhere in this thread you got a new rear door rubber bumper/stopper from cityracer?
Could that maybe work as a 55 hood bumper? Could you check?
somewhere in this thread you got a new rear door rubber bumper/stopper from cityracer?
Could that maybe work as a 55 hood bumper? Could you check?
- Thread starter
- #1,354
Man, sorry. My Pig is in the spa about 200 miles away. Also, I gave that swingout away and don’t have the bumper. Sorry.
- Thread starter
- #1,355
This part is pretty damn involved and if there are any step-by step directions with pictures for an early 40 then I’ve not found them.
One thing said cut close as possible to the old box. Nope. Need to cut shorter because of this swell on the shaft.
The shaft rides in the brass bushing that’s lodged in the end of the old pipe column
Gotta dissect the steering column completely.
Even with the swell gone the shaft does not fit in the bushing. I spent way too much time polishing and sanding and it was still too stiff.
This fixed it perfectly
Length I cut the main tube , 35”
One thing said cut close as possible to the old box. Nope. Need to cut shorter because of this swell on the shaft.
The shaft rides in the brass bushing that’s lodged in the end of the old pipe column
Gotta dissect the steering column completely.
Even with the swell gone the shaft does not fit in the bushing. I spent way too much time polishing and sanding and it was still too stiff.
This fixed it perfectly
Length I cut the main tube , 35”
Resisting...comments...about...shafts...and swells.
Sorry Nolen. Couldn’t help myself.
Sorry Nolen. Couldn’t help myself.
- Thread starter
- #1,357
Test fitting. This thing is too tight too but it gets welded. I can’t drill it out because of the key hole
The Early-73 conversations use this plate on the firewall. There are no holes so you have to put it up against the firewall, mark the holes and drill them out
I was getting kind of stoked until I put the column through and the hole was drilled for straight passage not a 45 degree angle.
I kept it bolted in and used my die grinder and carbide bit to slope the hole to allow the column to go up and bolt back in place at the dash.
This is what the finished product looks like
The outside frame hole was an easy cut with the plasma cutter but the inside hole is a bitch to get to. I spent some time with the die grinder making the hole right. I still need to get a bit more. I’m trying to save those rivets as they hold the radiator up
- Thread starter
- #1,358
I get the shaft mocked up. Measure. Cut.
Install.
Shaft hits the motor mount.
And frame.
Screw it. I’m going to leave it alone for a few days and go camping. I’ve got some ideas that don’t include burning it completely that may fix my problem.
Flap disc.
- Thread starter
- #1,360
Don’t
Lots of some already. That Toyota steering shaft laughs at it.
I’m gonna put a fresh one on and get on
A) shaft b) frame c) motor mount
In the mean time I’ll cuss and spit
Lots of some already. That Toyota steering shaft laughs at it.
I’m gonna put a fresh one on and get on
A) shaft b) frame c) motor mount
In the mean time I’ll cuss and spit