Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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under_psi
SILVER Star
damn.....i spent $$$ on one too.....cant send back now...
I would have likely just taken a dremel to the ears to open them up a bit. Although knowing my luck, that would have opened up a new can of worms.
Looking awesome amigo!
BTW, did you ever get the xmember figured out? I probably have a 2F Bellhousing with the motor mounts here I could ship you if you really need it.
- Thread starter
- #364
Mace. Crossmember is going to be simple. I can likely even make it without welding using the OEM 60 one and making my own ends.
- Thread starter
- #365
I'm off this project for a week for work and play travel but the project is still brewing.
White Rhino Fab aka @metalshaper has my tranny hump to patch the cancer on one corner.
Talking to him about this is how I do to every person that works on my house.
"Please don't make it perfect" "It's supposed to look old"
We shall see if he heard a word I said.
@beno hand delivered my F manifold to Altanta Custom Cruisers to have the thickness of the aluminum planed down to the thickness of the header I got from @wct49
@Poser consult revealed making these two surfaces match in thickness was key to making the seal on the exhaust perfect.
@under_psi ordered my 12mm to 10mm studs from Specter for me and tacked them on to his order.
Good stuff.
And damn, it's been a while so here is Julie's ass on the Internet
White Rhino Fab aka @metalshaper has my tranny hump to patch the cancer on one corner.
Talking to him about this is how I do to every person that works on my house.
"Please don't make it perfect" "It's supposed to look old"
We shall see if he heard a word I said.
@beno hand delivered my F manifold to Altanta Custom Cruisers to have the thickness of the aluminum planed down to the thickness of the header I got from @wct49
@Poser consult revealed making these two surfaces match in thickness was key to making the seal on the exhaust perfect.
@under_psi ordered my 12mm to 10mm studs from Specter for me and tacked them on to his order.
Good stuff.
And damn, it's been a while so here is Julie's ass on the Internet
euclid
SILVER Star
Remflex exhaust gasket
- Thread starter
- #367
I've got one ready.
Yup.
a******
- Thread starter
- #370
That's Internet a****** to you sister.
Internet a****** $500 2F sir.
- Thread starter
- #373
And the derail begins!
I ordered new shifter boots for my 40. 1975-84 type.
Does anyone have a used set with no holes they would like to trade for these new ones?
These will bling up my pile too much all shiny.
I ordered new shifter boots for my 40. 1975-84 type.
Does anyone have a used set with no holes they would like to trade for these new ones?
These will bling up my pile too much all shiny.
Bomar
SILVER Star
Zip tie them to the spare on TRD Pro for a few weeks under that truck with age them nicely. #seeandeatmississippigoeseverywhereinTRDpro
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I'll trade my 4 spd boot. My TC shift boot is blingy though; you'll not want it.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Bossman, I'm wondering who's handprints those are?
View attachment 1297094 View attachment 1297095
And damn, it's been a while so here is Julie's ass on the Internet
View attachment 1297096[/QUOTE]
love those shoes!
And damn, it's been a while so here is Julie's ass on the Internet
View attachment 1297096[/QUOTE]
love those shoes!
Hint: Look at the location of the thumbs...
Bodean
Hot Damn
She's a dirty girl!
Engine Swap Gold - JimC
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Jeebus, you guys talk a lot but don't say much. 19 pages and the truck has never run? 
Having plowed through most of this thread, here's the answers:
The mystery electric box on the firewall is an ancient hydro electric trailer brake controller. It was teed into a hydraulic brake line and a small piston inside slid the lever sideways and drag the contactor up & down the resistor coil. Throw it in the weeds, then throw rocks after it.
To put the 2F in the F chassis, use the F engine mounts drilled to M12, or use 75-80 2F mounts. Don't go hacking up the 40 frame to put 60 ears in it... oops, too late.
At the back, same deal. Use a 74-80 4speed bell with FJ40 mounts bolted to the side. Unlike the front, these are dimensionally identical over the years, so the 68 rear ears will bolt to a 78 BH, but have the bracketry for the driver-side slave. 55 is different from 40.
To make the engine bolt-in, dress it as an F. Use the nifty 68 manifold & adapter & 1bbl carb & air cleaner. that keeps the throttle, choke, hand throttle all stock & easy. Use a header if you got it, but be aware that clearancing of the header tubes to intake manifold will be necessary because the 68-69 manifold is very close to the head. A combination of dimpling the header tubes w/ a ballpeen and some diegrinder action on the intake will get it done. To clearance the intake & header for the M12 2F fasteners, bolt the pair to a scrap F head using all bolts (no studs). Run a 3/8, then 7/16 then 1/2" drill bit into the mounting holes, one at a time, removing & replacing fasteners as the drill is moved from hole to hole. Follow with a spotface bit to get all the holes level. Boom, intake/exhaust done, just need to bootyfab an exhaust system.
Use any 74-78 fuel pump so the hardline to carb will connect to pump, and it won't have the later return hose to cap off, and it's got eleventeen little PH#2 screws on it which looks correct.
On the cooling, don't use the giant aircon FJ60 lower rad pipe. Use the 68 pipe and 68-76 lower rad hoses. For an upper hose, the 81- hose to fit the t-stat housing is NLA. Force a 68-78 hose in there and keep your eyes out for a 79-80 upper stat housing, they use a standard 90* rad hose.
Remove temp sender & holder from the 68 engine & thread into 81 engine to work with 68 gage.
To keep ignition simple, use the vac advance 1968 dissy & clamp. If changing to a 2F dissy, be sure to use the thinner 2F clamp so it doesn't hold the dissy up off the block.
That's all I got for now, HTH somebody...
Having plowed through most of this thread, here's the answers:
The mystery electric box on the firewall is an ancient hydro electric trailer brake controller. It was teed into a hydraulic brake line and a small piston inside slid the lever sideways and drag the contactor up & down the resistor coil. Throw it in the weeds, then throw rocks after it.
To put the 2F in the F chassis, use the F engine mounts drilled to M12, or use 75-80 2F mounts. Don't go hacking up the 40 frame to put 60 ears in it... oops, too late.
At the back, same deal. Use a 74-80 4speed bell with FJ40 mounts bolted to the side. Unlike the front, these are dimensionally identical over the years, so the 68 rear ears will bolt to a 78 BH, but have the bracketry for the driver-side slave. 55 is different from 40.
To make the engine bolt-in, dress it as an F. Use the nifty 68 manifold & adapter & 1bbl carb & air cleaner. that keeps the throttle, choke, hand throttle all stock & easy. Use a header if you got it, but be aware that clearancing of the header tubes to intake manifold will be necessary because the 68-69 manifold is very close to the head. A combination of dimpling the header tubes w/ a ballpeen and some diegrinder action on the intake will get it done. To clearance the intake & header for the M12 2F fasteners, bolt the pair to a scrap F head using all bolts (no studs). Run a 3/8, then 7/16 then 1/2" drill bit into the mounting holes, one at a time, removing & replacing fasteners as the drill is moved from hole to hole. Follow with a spotface bit to get all the holes level. Boom, intake/exhaust done, just need to bootyfab an exhaust system.
Use any 74-78 fuel pump so the hardline to carb will connect to pump, and it won't have the later return hose to cap off, and it's got eleventeen little PH#2 screws on it which looks correct.
On the cooling, don't use the giant aircon FJ60 lower rad pipe. Use the 68 pipe and 68-76 lower rad hoses. For an upper hose, the 81- hose to fit the t-stat housing is NLA. Force a 68-78 hose in there and keep your eyes out for a 79-80 upper stat housing, they use a standard 90* rad hose.
Remove temp sender & holder from the 68 engine & thread into 81 engine to work with 68 gage.
To keep ignition simple, use the vac advance 1968 dissy & clamp. If changing to a 2F dissy, be sure to use the thinner 2F clamp so it doesn't hold the dissy up off the block.
That's all I got for now, HTH somebody...
