Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)

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Ok ok. I spent the $100 on OEM
Stuff. Thanks @Mace for the input over on Pirate. TG battery box available. $20

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Good news on intake. Poser tells us there is a step down kit from SOR that allows you to put 12mm in the head and use 10mm studs.
 
wngrog said:
Good news on intake. Poser tells us there is a step down kit from SOR that allows you to put 12mm in the head and use 10mm studs.
Click to expand...

I would have likely just taken a dremel to the ears to open them up a bit. Although knowing my luck, that would have opened up a new can of worms.

Looking awesome amigo!

BTW, did you ever get the xmember figured out? I probably have a 2F Bellhousing with the motor mounts here I could ship you if you really need it.
 
I'm off this project for a week for work and play travel but the project is still brewing.

White Rhino Fab aka @metalshaper has my tranny hump to patch the cancer on one corner.

Talking to him about this is how I do to every person that works on my house.

"Please don't make it perfect" "It's supposed to look old"

We shall see if he heard a word I said. :)

@beno hand delivered my F manifold to Altanta Custom Cruisers to have the thickness of the aluminum planed down to the thickness of the header I got from @wct49

@Poser consult revealed making these two surfaces match in thickness was key to making the seal on the exhaust perfect.

@under_psi ordered my 12mm to 10mm studs from Specter for me and tacked them on to his order.

Good stuff.
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And damn, it's been a while so here is Julie's ass on the Internet

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And the derail begins!

I ordered new shifter boots for my 40. 1975-84 type.

Does anyone have a used set with no holes they would like to trade for these new ones?

These will bling up my pile too much all shiny.
 
wngrog said:
And the derail begins!

I ordered new shifter boots for my 40. 1975-84 type.

Does anyone have a used set with no holes they would like to trade for these new ones?

These will bling up my pile too much all shiny.
Click to expand...

I'll trade my 4 spd boot. My TC shift boot is blingy though; you'll not want it.
 
She's a dirty girl!
 
Engine Swap Gold - JimC
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    • Jeebus, you guys talk a lot but don't say much. 19 pages and the truck has never run? :flipoff2:

    Having plowed through most of this thread, here's the answers:
    The mystery electric box on the firewall is an ancient hydro electric trailer brake controller. It was teed into a hydraulic brake line and a small piston inside slid the lever sideways and drag the contactor up & down the resistor coil. Throw it in the weeds, then throw rocks after it.

    To put the 2F in the F chassis, use the F engine mounts drilled to M12, or use 75-80 2F mounts. Don't go hacking up the 40 frame to put 60 ears in it... oops, too late.

    At the back, same deal. Use a 74-80 4speed bell with FJ40 mounts bolted to the side. Unlike the front, these are dimensionally identical over the years, so the 68 rear ears will bolt to a 78 BH, but have the bracketry for the driver-side slave. 55 is different from 40.

    To make the engine bolt-in, dress it as an F. Use the nifty 68 manifold & adapter & 1bbl carb & air cleaner. that keeps the throttle, choke, hand throttle all stock & easy. Use a header if you got it, but be aware that clearancing of the header tubes to intake manifold will be necessary because the 68-69 manifold is very close to the head. A combination of dimpling the header tubes w/ a ballpeen and some diegrinder action on the intake will get it done. To clearance the intake & header for the M12 2F fasteners, bolt the pair to a scrap F head using all bolts (no studs). Run a 3/8, then 7/16 then 1/2" drill bit into the mounting holes, one at a time, removing & replacing fasteners as the drill is moved from hole to hole. Follow with a spotface bit to get all the holes level. Boom, intake/exhaust done, just need to bootyfab an exhaust system.

    Use any 74-78 fuel pump so the hardline to carb will connect to pump, and it won't have the later return hose to cap off, and it's got eleventeen little PH#2 screws on it which looks correct.

    On the cooling, don't use the giant aircon FJ60 lower rad pipe. Use the 68 pipe and 68-76 lower rad hoses. For an upper hose, the 81- hose to fit the t-stat housing is NLA. Force a 68-78 hose in there and keep your eyes out for a 79-80 upper stat housing, they use a standard 90* rad hose.

    Remove temp sender & holder from the 68 engine & thread into 81 engine to work with 68 gage.

    To keep ignition simple, use the vac advance 1968 dissy & clamp. If changing to a 2F dissy, be sure to use the thinner 2F clamp so it doesn't hold the dissy up off the block.

    That's all I got for now, HTH somebody...
     
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