- Thread starter
- #101
the only problem with that spot is that I think it will be hard to fit sliders. also, it is going to hang much lower and will likely get bashed...
just my .02
just my .02
Project Onboard Air: York Compressor
- Thread starter AppleTech
- Start date
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Cool apple, i found your build just screwing around today. looks way cool. cant wait to see it all finished.
cheers bro
cheers bro
- Thread starter
- #104
Thanks again for your great tip on Ventura Hose Man! They had almost everything I needed and their prices weren't bad at all!
-Phil
Ventura Hose???? Info please....
- Thread starter
- #106
Still working on getting the brackets. I have the pieces, but I have some finish work and haven't had anytime lately between working and building transmissions in the evening. Will try to do something this weekend... Keep your fingers crossed.
- Thread starter
- #108
- Thread starter
- #109
Updates: Plumbing the system
So I finally gathered up all the parts I needed and started plumbing the system. A word of caution - DON'T buy the Air Hose Relocation kit from VIAIR. It has a nice set of fittings but the air line that came with it is horribly coiled and almost impossible to work with. I've got it crimped in 2 placed because it was so hard to snake into place. I'm just hoping the line holds up so I don't have to replace it.
Anyways, here's the manifold. One input from the tank, one going to the pressure switch, one on the front will be the pressure gauge, the other will be blocked.
Here's the holes I drilled in the rear cargo compartment to mount the manifold. I was going to mount the manifold up front in the engine bay but couldn't find a good place for it, plus it was easier to plumb it at the back than running another air line up front.
Here's the manifold mounted and the gauge installed. Note the nasty coil of air tubing
Here's the pressure switch w/ relay. This unit from VIAIR is nice, but it has no way to mount it nicely, so I had to zip tie. I would recommend getting a switch that just screws into the manifold and wiring up a relay yourself. This unit is nice if you aren't good with electrical stuff though, as everything is labeled and easy to hook up.
The finished install in the cargo area:
Here's an indication of how I plumbed the air line from the interior to the tank. In the far right of the picture, past the frame, you see a small drain tube. I ran the line next to this tube (through the grommet). For orientation, the rear of the truck is towards the bottom of the picture, the DS of the truck to the right.
-Phil
So I finally gathered up all the parts I needed and started plumbing the system. A word of caution - DON'T buy the Air Hose Relocation kit from VIAIR. It has a nice set of fittings but the air line that came with it is horribly coiled and almost impossible to work with. I've got it crimped in 2 placed because it was so hard to snake into place. I'm just hoping the line holds up so I don't have to replace it.
Anyways, here's the manifold. One input from the tank, one going to the pressure switch, one on the front will be the pressure gauge, the other will be blocked.
Here's the holes I drilled in the rear cargo compartment to mount the manifold. I was going to mount the manifold up front in the engine bay but couldn't find a good place for it, plus it was easier to plumb it at the back than running another air line up front.
Here's the manifold mounted and the gauge installed. Note the nasty coil of air tubing
Here's the pressure switch w/ relay. This unit from VIAIR is nice, but it has no way to mount it nicely, so I had to zip tie. I would recommend getting a switch that just screws into the manifold and wiring up a relay yourself. This unit is nice if you aren't good with electrical stuff though, as everything is labeled and easy to hook up.
The finished install in the cargo area:
Here's an indication of how I plumbed the air line from the interior to the tank. In the far right of the picture, past the frame, you see a small drain tube. I ran the line next to this tube (through the grommet). For orientation, the rear of the truck is towards the bottom of the picture, the DS of the truck to the right.
-Phil
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Hey Phil, why did you mount the gauge so low? First it seems that its perfectly located to get smashed by something random that is in the back and second because its in such an awkward position. You can't see it by just turning your head from the driver's seat and you have to bend all the way in to see it from the back. Why not mount it up higher and mount it perpendicular to the tailgate?
TrickyT
Hate that mud...
...
Here's the pressure switch w/ relay. This unit from VIAIR is nice, but it has no way to mount it nicely, so I had to zip tie. I would recommend getting a switch that just screws into the manifold and wiring up a relay yourself. This unit is nice if you aren't good with electrical stuff though, as everything is labeled and easy to hook up.
...
If you go with a separate pressure switch and relay, then you can also put the relay up front in the engine bay and keep the wires between it and the clutch on the compressor reasonably short. I just measured the current draw on my York compressor clutch and it's 4.5 amps when engaged. Not terribly high, but significant nonetheless. So you'd want 16 AWG wiring for the clutch, or even 14 AWG if it's a long run. But the current needed to run the relay is small, so you could use much smaller gauge wire between the pressure switch and the relay if they are separated.
Of course the other option is put the whole pressure switch/relay assembly up front in the engine bay.
TrickyT
Hate that mud...
Phil,
Aren't you going to run a regulator between the tank and the quick disconnect couplers? I don't know what you plan to use your air supply for, but if it's air tools or ARB lockers you'll need to control the air pressure. In post #16 you said your pressure switch was set to turn on at 110 psi and off at 145. Air tools and ARB lockers want about 90 psi. (ARB says 105 psi maximum, otherwise you blow out the seals.) Even if you only plan to fill up tires, others may impose upon you for air for other needs. Regulators are cheap too, although you'd need a second gauge.
Just food for thought. I like this thread you started; very informative. Good pictures too.
Aren't you going to run a regulator between the tank and the quick disconnect couplers? I don't know what you plan to use your air supply for, but if it's air tools or ARB lockers you'll need to control the air pressure. In post #16 you said your pressure switch was set to turn on at 110 psi and off at 145. Air tools and ARB lockers want about 90 psi. (ARB says 105 psi maximum, otherwise you blow out the seals.) Even if you only plan to fill up tires, others may impose upon you for air for other needs. Regulators are cheap too, although you'd need a second gauge.
Just food for thought. I like this thread you started; very informative. Good pictures too.
- Thread starter
- #113
I put it there because it was a nice flat piece of metal, and it meant that the air lines would be considerably shorter. I don't plan on checking it that often - I'm going to drain the tank after each use - I'm most likely going to only use it on wheeling trips. Also, nothing goes in my cargo area unless it's tied down
This is what I'm thinking of doing... I just have to figure out a way to mount it. I would put a T on the output from the compressor but I am worried about gumming up the pressure switch.
I may do this should I decide to run air tools. Right now I'm not, but this is definitely a good point that others might want to use it.
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #114
Update:
So I wasn't feeling good about the crimped hard plastic air line, nor having to run fat wiring back to the rear of the truck. So I ran down to Lowes and picked up another 20ft of air line (300psi max, 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID) along with more fittings. FYI: If you are going to do an OBA system and are having trouble finding fittings, Lowes actually had a nice selection and the prices were fair.
So I plumbed the new line from the rear compartment where the manifold is all the way up to the front of the truck (both compressor->tank and manifold->pressure switch run along the DS, so I didn't have to snake in and around the exhaust/cats) and I am going to park the pressure switch in front of the battery in that nice little crevice. I have used one of the spare slots in the fuse block and added a place to run the hookups for the relay/compressor with a fuse.
Sometime this week I will be wiring up the switch and stuff. The bracket/hose relocation kit should be here from Lumpdog sometime this week... just in time for some wheeling next weekend (I hope!)
-Phil
PS: the one thing I am having trouble finding is the bracket that would hold the quick disconnect in place wherever I choose to mount it... anyone know what this is called and where I can find one?
So I wasn't feeling good about the crimped hard plastic air line, nor having to run fat wiring back to the rear of the truck. So I ran down to Lowes and picked up another 20ft of air line (300psi max, 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID) along with more fittings. FYI: If you are going to do an OBA system and are having trouble finding fittings, Lowes actually had a nice selection and the prices were fair.
So I plumbed the new line from the rear compartment where the manifold is all the way up to the front of the truck (both compressor->tank and manifold->pressure switch run along the DS, so I didn't have to snake in and around the exhaust/cats) and I am going to park the pressure switch in front of the battery in that nice little crevice. I have used one of the spare slots in the fuse block and added a place to run the hookups for the relay/compressor with a fuse.
Sometime this week I will be wiring up the switch and stuff. The bracket/hose relocation kit should be here from Lumpdog sometime this week... just in time for some wheeling next weekend (I hope!)
-Phil
PS: the one thing I am having trouble finding is the bracket that would hold the quick disconnect in place wherever I choose to mount it... anyone know what this is called and where I can find one?
Last edited:
Phil,
Have a look at my OBA schematic again. You want all control systems (pressure switch, regulator) downstream of the tank and filter(s).
You're looking for a 1/4" bulkhead fitting to mount the 1/4" QD fitting as shown in this picture...
Have a look at my OBA schematic again. You want all control systems (pressure switch, regulator) downstream of the tank and filter(s).
You're looking for a 1/4" bulkhead fitting to mount the 1/4" QD fitting as shown in this picture...
alia176
SILVER Star
Folks,
For ease of installation, use the push in air fittings from McMastercarr. Go to page 165 and see the huge selection McMaster-Carr. It doesn't make sense to use compression fittings when you can use Push In fittings and connect/disconnect the tubing without any tools. You can in line Ys, Ts, splitters all kinds of cool stuff to make your OBA installation real slick. I just can't see the use of bulky air hoses that I use in my garage, running all over my vehicle.
As for the tubing, go to a truck parts place like Peterbilt/Freighliner and purchase the air brake hose 1/4" or 3/8" and they cost less than 40 cents/foot (they have more expensive kind too). These are DOT rated hose and good for the underhood temps and has a 300 psi burst pressure. Here's the writing on my tubing: Parker Hannifin Corp Air brake 1220-4A SAE J844 type 3A 1/4 OD A DOT
For ease of installation, use the push in air fittings from McMastercarr. Go to page 165 and see the huge selection McMaster-Carr. It doesn't make sense to use compression fittings when you can use Push In fittings and connect/disconnect the tubing without any tools. You can in line Ys, Ts, splitters all kinds of cool stuff to make your OBA installation real slick. I just can't see the use of bulky air hoses that I use in my garage, running all over my vehicle.
As for the tubing, go to a truck parts place like Peterbilt/Freighliner and purchase the air brake hose 1/4" or 3/8" and they cost less than 40 cents/foot (they have more expensive kind too). These are DOT rated hose and good for the underhood temps and has a 300 psi burst pressure. Here's the writing on my tubing: Parker Hannifin Corp Air brake 1220-4A SAE J844 type 3A 1/4 OD A DOT
Why not just buy direct from Parker???
I got all the stuff I needed to switch my ARB lockers on my old 60 to air only and bought all the fittings and such from a Parker store I found on their website...just an FYI...
I got all the stuff I needed to switch my ARB lockers on my old 60 to air only and bought all the fittings and such from a Parker store I found on their website...just an FYI...
theferg
SILVER Star
Sweet got me one of those 38 gal replacement fuel tanks so I'm not gonna put an aux fuel tank in the back anymore.
Phil, it's lookin nice. Thanks for bein the guineau (sp?) pig on this...
-Ferg-
- Thread starter
- #119
I'm not the first... I leave that distinction for Lumpdog! I'm glad you guys are enjoying my thread. Almost ready to go, just gotta wire her up and mount up the bracket/heater hose relocation.
Next on the list for this month:
- I'm going to modify my tire gauge/air down tool so it will drain the tires faster... it's got a pinhole outlet and it's annoyingly slow!
- I'm going to customize a trigger-style inflator to have a more accurate gauge relevant to tires (it goes up to 220PSI right now!)
Expect... no, DEMAND pictures!
-Phil
alia176
SILVER Star
That's good to know. Thanks for the info.
