Your problem is your Cruiser is too clean John. It knows this and is trying to correct the problem itself by creating its own leaks even when it’s not running.
Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)
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S4Cruiser
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- #784
I am approaching my 'no leak' time record for the transmission. Hopes are high ATM. Will wait until later today before I consider putting everything back together. One glass half full aspect of this is that I have become much more efficient pulling seats, tank, heater, trans hump, and pulling / stabbing in the trans/tcase assembly.
Fancy, 'hope to be leak solving' billet countershaft cover from Novak (I've got probably $500 into this trans minus my time).
I will jb weld this baby crack in the front extension housing for the time being / until I get another one (the worse that can happen is it breaks more seeing how it's trash now).
When I removed the OG countershaft cover that was leaking and after removing the old gasket/rtv I 'think' I might have found one of my previous leak causing issues. There are two pass-through machined sections at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions of the countershaft torrington bearing. These are so a 2-jaw puller can be inserted and grab the backside of the bearing for removal. At closer inspection, it appeared that in a previous life, someone had pried at the bearing and marred the edges of part of the machined surface the cover seals against. This allowed the cover to sit higher and 'wobble' slightly at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Maybe this was attributed to the cover leaking at the bottom previously. Regardless, I took a die grinder and flap wheel to the sections and smoothed them flat again, no more wobble. Time will tell...
Fancy, 'hope to be leak solving' billet countershaft cover from Novak (I've got probably $500 into this trans minus my time).
I will jb weld this baby crack in the front extension housing for the time being / until I get another one (the worse that can happen is it breaks more seeing how it's trash now).
When I removed the OG countershaft cover that was leaking and after removing the old gasket/rtv I 'think' I might have found one of my previous leak causing issues. There are two pass-through machined sections at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions of the countershaft torrington bearing. These are so a 2-jaw puller can be inserted and grab the backside of the bearing for removal. At closer inspection, it appeared that in a previous life, someone had pried at the bearing and marred the edges of part of the machined surface the cover seals against. This allowed the cover to sit higher and 'wobble' slightly at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Maybe this was attributed to the cover leaking at the bottom previously. Regardless, I took a die grinder and flap wheel to the sections and smoothed them flat again, no more wobble. Time will tell...
its a land cruiser....its gotta mark its territory
Synchros might loosen up over time.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #791
I picked these up last night. I was originally looking for another project but now I’m wanting to put these under this truck (thanks @R.K.)
They’re out of a late 80s early 90s cab and chassis truck. Not 100% sure what gear ratio they are yet...BUT it might not matter long term if I want deeper ones. Being CC, the rear has DRW hubs (63” WMS). Front also has DRW hubs (76” WMS = superdooperwide with normal BS wheels). End result is these need massaging regardless of their intended use...
Idea I’m rattling around is to modify these so they are both in the 63” wms. I know just enough about these to think I know something but there’s so much I don’t...hence my questions below.
Rear axle proposed general plan:
- swap hubs to SRW so the hubs don’t poke out past the tires (maybe do 6x5.5 pattern to fit my current wheels)
- swap drums to discs
- shorten one side so to offset the diff to match (close enough) the rear output of the Orion case
- still run 55 series leafs that are on the truck now
Considerations of the above = need one custom length 14b axle shaft
Front axle proposed general plan:
- swap hubs to SRW hubs OR machine current hubs to SRW width (like above...possibly go 6x5.5 pattern)
- shorten to work with the 63” wms rear (ideal shortened width?)
- still run flipped / shackle reversed 40 series springs on the truck now
Questions for the above:
- can I avoid not having to outboard springs in the front?
- I read enough to know that if I run the D60 in stock width then I would need to outboard...does shortening maybe the long side change that?
- the D60 has a machined perch on the short side that is part of the center diff housing...what’s the appropriate/available solution to this when rotating the pinion to desired castor angle? Machine a set of custom shims?
- currently running 4x4 labs frombe and scout box...switching to a D60 highsteer should still work with my scout box (would go hydro assist at the same time tho)?
Definitely lots more ‘stuff’ to consider but I understand those to be more preference and $$$ driven (i.e. gears, lockers, shafts, etc.). My points above are what’s got me wondering if swapping these into this truck is a viable option without going nuts (4 link rear, etc. etc.).
Also might want to consider moving this thread to the hardcore section to get some more feedback (not that there aren’t folks on our board with the 1ton experience).
They’re out of a late 80s early 90s cab and chassis truck. Not 100% sure what gear ratio they are yet...BUT it might not matter long term if I want deeper ones. Being CC, the rear has DRW hubs (63” WMS). Front also has DRW hubs (76” WMS = superdooperwide with normal BS wheels). End result is these need massaging regardless of their intended use...
Idea I’m rattling around is to modify these so they are both in the 63” wms. I know just enough about these to think I know something but there’s so much I don’t...hence my questions below.
Rear axle proposed general plan:
- swap hubs to SRW so the hubs don’t poke out past the tires (maybe do 6x5.5 pattern to fit my current wheels)
- swap drums to discs
- shorten one side so to offset the diff to match (close enough) the rear output of the Orion case
- still run 55 series leafs that are on the truck now
Considerations of the above = need one custom length 14b axle shaft
Front axle proposed general plan:
- swap hubs to SRW hubs OR machine current hubs to SRW width (like above...possibly go 6x5.5 pattern)
- shorten to work with the 63” wms rear (ideal shortened width?)
- still run flipped / shackle reversed 40 series springs on the truck now
Questions for the above:
- can I avoid not having to outboard springs in the front?
- I read enough to know that if I run the D60 in stock width then I would need to outboard...does shortening maybe the long side change that?
- the D60 has a machined perch on the short side that is part of the center diff housing...what’s the appropriate/available solution to this when rotating the pinion to desired castor angle? Machine a set of custom shims?
- currently running 4x4 labs frombe and scout box...switching to a D60 highsteer should still work with my scout box (would go hydro assist at the same time tho)?
Definitely lots more ‘stuff’ to consider but I understand those to be more preference and $$$ driven (i.e. gears, lockers, shafts, etc.). My points above are what’s got me wondering if swapping these into this truck is a viable option without going nuts (4 link rear, etc. etc.).
Also might want to consider moving this thread to the hardcore section to get some more feedback (not that there aren’t folks on our board with the 1ton experience).
What's your overall purpose for your rig? 63-65 is a good width to shoot for in my opinion. Hard-core section would get u more responses.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #793
Kind of a loaded question for me
Now that I have another truck I’m building (‘67 FJ40) which will be almost exclusively stock and would serve any driver purposes (putting around town, etc.) and I have 3rd truck to build which will likely end up as an expo type deal...this grey truck will probably end up being a garage Queen / wheeling rig (getting towed to the trail, etc.). As such, I’d likely upstage to some tire like a 39” with the 1tons (maybe even a red label).
I’m sure linking the front and rear would be best but I’d rather stay with leafs for now and keep the wheel base as it sits (not comp cutting the rear, etc.).
I think you will have a tough time fitting the Dana 60 front with minimal suspension modifications. You definitely will want to cut the long side down, but the further you do, the closer your driveshaft will be to the oil pan and a 2 piece shaft may be in your future.
I say leaf springs in the rear and a well thought out 3 or 4link in the front. You could keep it simple and cheap with coils. Or spend some extra and go with ORIs... there’s a couple builds you could check out on pirate for inspiration. I’ll try and dig them up. @TxCruzr went through this with spicy wonton.
I say leaf springs in the rear and a well thought out 3 or 4link in the front. You could keep it simple and cheap with coils. Or spend some extra and go with ORIs... there’s a couple builds you could check out on pirate for inspiration. I’ll try and dig them up. @TxCruzr went through this with spicy wonton.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #795
After doing some reading, looks like my plan for the rear will be like what freds40 did. Cut both tubes of the 14bolt but 6” more off one side, swap them and then it’s offset 6” to the passenger side. Should be good enough and uses stock shafts still. Then mod the drw hubs to work with my TR wheels. Good thing I got a super great friend with a big lathe!! @GLTHFJ60
Really looking forward to the next phase!
Should be able to swing the entire diff housing in the leblond with the steady rest 
Iirc, cut down the 14b long side to accept a stock 14b short side shaft, and boom, you've got narrower width with your intended offset. @boots4 did this in his 60.
Dana 60 front has the ds spring perch cast into the housing, so it can't move. You'd need to do some measurements to see how much you'd have to cut out of the ps to make it even, then what your wms would end up at. My guess is it'd be too narrow, and you'd have to outboard the springs. I outboarded my springs with the stock wms d60
Iirc, cut down the 14b long side to accept a stock 14b short side shaft, and boom, you've got narrower width with your intended offset. @boots4 did this in his 60.
Dana 60 front has the ds spring perch cast into the housing, so it can't move. You'd need to do some measurements to see how much you'd have to cut out of the ps to make it even, then what your wms would end up at. My guess is it'd be too narrow, and you'd have to outboard the springs. I outboarded my springs with the stock wms d60
S4Cruiser
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- #798
Looks like Jack did it when he built his 45 initially before going 4link. Sounds like it’s simple as cutting 4.5 inches off the long side. Can it be that easy?
Dana 60 Axles
The above would equal a front with 64.5” wms. Cutting off 6” of the long side off a 14 bolt would be 61.5”wms but with SRW hubs. Since this axle already has drw hubs, doing the cutoff both and swap deal would leave it at the same Cab and chassis 63.5” wms.
Is having the front and rear wms 1” difference vs 3” better?
I hadnt seen that particular billavista page before! Very cool. Option two looks bad ass!
Aren't c&c 14b axle hubs 63" wms? Why not change to a np205 while you're at it and keep the 14b centered
Front should be a hair wider than the rear ideally. Front being 3" wider is a lot, 1“ is better.
Aren't c&c 14b axle hubs 63" wms? Why not change to a np205 while you're at it and keep the 14b centered
Front should be a hair wider than the rear ideally. Front being 3" wider is a lot, 1“ is better.
S4Cruiser
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- #800
I hadnt seen that particular billavista page before! Very cool. Option two looks bad ass!
Aren't c&c 14b axle hubs 63" wms? Why not change to a np205 while you're at it and keep the 14b centered
Front should be a hair wider than the rear ideally. Front being 3" wider is a lot, 1“ is better.
Hell yeah! Sounds like I’ve got me a plan. I’ll work to get these guys torn down and all cleaned up for modding!!
