Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter S4Cruiser
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IMHO, you need to know how much suspension travel you have before you commit to shocks. You don't want your shocks to be the limit of suspension travel upwards or downwards.
Forced droop, exactly. When one tire is forcibly pushed up, the other side will droop more than when just hanging.
1" of uptravel is not enough. Your springs will allow more uptravel than that for sure. Can you run the 12s but angle them inwards to get more uptravel?
1" of uptravel is not enough. Your springs will allow more uptravel than that for sure. Can you run the 12s but angle them inwards to get more uptravel?
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #487
After some measuring and figgering and thinking, I'm gonna go with the 12s and mount them angled slightly inward. To get them vertical and still run anything over 10s then I'd need to cut the tub and run them into the cab, which would kill the rear usable space. I'll also go with the 255/70 valving. Running them angled the effective valving will actually be less (softer) which is probably a good compromise. I was thinking the 255s were not soft enough and 180 were too soft.
Will see how it works out though. Fingers crossed.
Will see how it works out though. Fingers crossed.
I haven't gotten mine right yet. Back before I did the axle swap, I had the 12" working really well with them angled. I think you will be shooting yourself in the foot if you don't angle them by limiting your stroke. You can run the higher valving with them angled and effectively they will land somewhere in the middle of the two options since the dampening force is effectively reduced by the angles. @Rice could probably work up a FBD problem for a pop quiz if you really wanted to know how much 
FBD's in the middle of summer? .... I can't even wrap my brain around finding a pencil.
The shock mount discussion is a good one to have. A definite thumbs up to mentions already made ...
Angle in to allow for extra travel. The forced droop possible by pushing up on the other side is only part of the story. Fully load the suspension diagonally, say front left and right rear, and total flex increases. Add a few hundred pounds of driver, wench, gear, gas et.al. and you've pushed it even farther. Your 2 post lift would be a great tool for simulating full flex once you get the weight close. It can also play into determining where to place your bump stops.
And again, wow! I come here for the "40 porn" and you never disappoint!
The shock mount discussion is a good one to have. A definite thumbs up to mentions already made ...
Angle in to allow for extra travel. The forced droop possible by pushing up on the other side is only part of the story. Fully load the suspension diagonally, say front left and right rear, and total flex increases. Add a few hundred pounds of driver, wench, gear, gas et.al. and you've pushed it even farther. Your 2 post lift would be a great tool for simulating full flex once you get the weight close. It can also play into determining where to place your bump stops.
And again, wow! I come here for the "40 porn" and you never disappoint!
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #491
I fxxxing hate stupid POs...
Project for last night was to mount the wiper motor, which shouldve been a 15 minute affair. It turned into a multiple hour event...
If anyone is familiar with the early '70s style setup, each wiper is attached to a shaft which protrudes through the windshield frame. There is an outer shaft and inner shaft for both the main motor side and slave side. After mounting, I noticed the inner shaft of the slave wasn't protruding enough from the outer shaft. They are made to be adjustable...but for some reason it wasn't adjusting.
The outer shaft has course threads on one end (that threads into the motor) and fine threads at the other (where the wiper assembly attaches). Well, some dip**** PO had not only reversed the shaft orientation (force-ably threaded fine threads into a coarse hole) but also did so at an angle. It took patience and lots of lube to get it apart as the inner shaft was pressed up against the inside of the outer shaft at an angle.
Luckily everything went back together fine...but then realized I purchased the wrong wiper blades from FAT and need to order another set.
If anyone needs new blade assemblies for a 10/72 or newer, let me know. I've got a set that will gather dust...
Project for last night was to mount the wiper motor, which shouldve been a 15 minute affair. It turned into a multiple hour event...
If anyone is familiar with the early '70s style setup, each wiper is attached to a shaft which protrudes through the windshield frame. There is an outer shaft and inner shaft for both the main motor side and slave side. After mounting, I noticed the inner shaft of the slave wasn't protruding enough from the outer shaft. They are made to be adjustable...but for some reason it wasn't adjusting.
The outer shaft has course threads on one end (that threads into the motor) and fine threads at the other (where the wiper assembly attaches). Well, some dip**** PO had not only reversed the shaft orientation (force-ably threaded fine threads into a coarse hole) but also did so at an angle. It took patience and lots of lube to get it apart as the inner shaft was pressed up against the inside of the outer shaft at an angle.
Luckily everything went back together fine...but then realized I purchased the wrong wiper blades from FAT and need to order another set.
If anyone needs new blade assemblies for a 10/72 or newer, let me know. I've got a set that will gather dust...
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #494
Not much for pics, but busy completing task that are on the list. Rear axle is close to being final assemble, it was just 'together' enough to roll around. New and longer rear wheel studs, seals, gaskets (at the third), calipers and rotors.
Same for the front axle plus some OG Longs and ARP studs in the knuckle and hub that I've had squirreled away for years. Most of my work in the front is redoing cleaning / painting of the knuckle parts. 7 years ago I wasn't as meticulous and half assed some of the paint...like not sanding and degreasing new calipers before painting. It takes much longer to redo then doing it correct the first time
Also refreshed a set of Aisin hubs from a solid axle mini truck. These get a set of Bobbys hub gears too! Hub faces got some fresh paint and bolts. Still waiting for them to cure before reassembling.
Same for the front axle plus some OG Longs and ARP studs in the knuckle and hub that I've had squirreled away for years. Most of my work in the front is redoing cleaning / painting of the knuckle parts. 7 years ago I wasn't as meticulous and half assed some of the paint...like not sanding and degreasing new calipers before painting. It takes much longer to redo then doing it correct the first time
Also refreshed a set of Aisin hubs from a solid axle mini truck. These get a set of Bobbys hub gears too! Hub faces got some fresh paint and bolts. Still waiting for them to cure before reassembling.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #495
This is probably a stupid question....
I need to finalize my plan for drive shafts. I will definitley need a DC shaft for the rear and having one in the front wouldn't hurt. Technically not really needed unless I plan to be bombing around in 4wd at speed.
I know I have multiple options like finding 60 series or mini truck DC shafts then having them lengthened, etc. Another option is to have shafts built from scratch by Tom Woods. I'm sure there are also local vendors that could build from scratch, I'm just not aware.
The ideal situation is to just have them built and be done. I've read about pulling measurements but am fuzzy on the best way to do so with a truck that is not mobile. Even if I was ready to fire it up and drive around, I have no DS that will fit to move it.
Someone please tell me what to do
I need to finalize my plan for drive shafts. I will definitley need a DC shaft for the rear and having one in the front wouldn't hurt. Technically not really needed unless I plan to be bombing around in 4wd at speed.
I know I have multiple options like finding 60 series or mini truck DC shafts then having them lengthened, etc. Another option is to have shafts built from scratch by Tom Woods. I'm sure there are also local vendors that could build from scratch, I'm just not aware.
The ideal situation is to just have them built and be done. I've read about pulling measurements but am fuzzy on the best way to do so with a truck that is not mobile. Even if I was ready to fire it up and drive around, I have no DS that will fit to move it.
Someone please tell me what to do
In order to measure for driveshafts, you need to be at finished ride height. This means you need to put some load on the suspension (weight) to get to what you believe the finished ride height to be.
Once you're at that point, measure from the center of the companion flange at the transfercase to the center of the companion flange at the differential. Do this for both sides (front and rear). Take those measurements and call a driveshaft shop, tell them the style you want (DC, single joint, what style slip, etc.), give them that measurement and they'll build you what you need.
I've had great luck with Oliver's Driveshaft in Winston Salem, but only for my chevy style driveshafts. Tom Woods works as well as Carolina Driveline.
I'd recommend buying a front and rear, then a second rear driveshaft, to have as a spare.
Once you're at that point, measure from the center of the companion flange at the transfercase to the center of the companion flange at the differential. Do this for both sides (front and rear). Take those measurements and call a driveshaft shop, tell them the style you want (DC, single joint, what style slip, etc.), give them that measurement and they'll build you what you need.
I've had great luck with Oliver's Driveshaft in Winston Salem, but only for my chevy style driveshafts. Tom Woods works as well as Carolina Driveline.
I'd recommend buying a front and rear, then a second rear driveshaft, to have as a spare.
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jfz80
Cruisin’
The tom woods site has a good worksheet to assist whether using them to build or not. ABC and 123 i believe.
Its on a relatively flat surface and mostly fully weighted right? Grab an angle finder and record angle of each pinion flange and the distance between them and start there.
http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdf
There is olivers up here (winston) and carolina driveline (?) In RDU i think johnny and others have used. Tatton has good reviews and quick service as well.
Edit: johnny beat me to it
Its on a relatively flat surface and mostly fully weighted right? Grab an angle finder and record angle of each pinion flange and the distance between them and start there.
http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdf
There is olivers up here (winston) and carolina driveline (?) In RDU i think johnny and others have used. Tatton has good reviews and quick service as well.
Edit: johnny beat me to it
Correct.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Generally no. The two places i have had built said there wasnt enough movement to be concerned with MY setup and the existing spline length i was working with.
For longer travel setup you could consider the exteded spline to ensure complete range of motion. My opinion is youd be fine since not a crazy long travel linked setup...... yet
Edit: Sheesh. Beat again
For longer travel setup you could consider the exteded spline to ensure complete range of motion. My opinion is youd be fine since not a crazy long travel linked setup...... yet
Edit: Sheesh. Beat again
