Project - Not so Nice

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Why have a switch in the cab at all?

I like what rice found.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Why have a switch in the cab at all?

I like what rice found.
Click to expand...

Well....

Factory for a 60 series (or 40 series depending on the year if at all) was to have the fan run based on a thermo sensor installed in the carb insulator plate. It would run after shutoff if temp required and for at most 20 minutes. The run time controlled by a temperature fan relay.

I'd like to have it run for a specified time only if I choose, regardless if the temp. The in cab switch would allow the system to work or not. Kind of like a kill switch or actually exactly like one.

If switch is turned on then the fan runs based on the settings of the timer relay. My desired action is for the timer relay to turn the fan on for a period of minutes once the truck's ignition is turned off. And repeat this every ignition cycle.

I'm still struggling to understand the relay concepts of on delay and off delay or true off delay. Need to do more reading.
 
Right, but my question is, why do you want to be able to turn it on or off manually? Wire it up like the 60 series from the factory, without the thermo sensor.
 
It won't harm anything running in the colder months. I'd skip the switch. It's not necessary and adds unneeded complexity.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
It won't harm anything running in the colder months. I'd skip the switch. It's not necessary and adds unneeded complexity.
Click to expand...

Ok, ok...I'll consider it :wrench:

I did get some other stuff done this weekend. More cleaning, painted, assembling parts.

New oem 40 series snorkel tank - sanded, epoxy sealed and painted!


Got some Earls Performance fittings and hose in for the pwr steering deal. Looks like I'll need to get some different fittings, maybe 2 45* angled ones. It's nice the box and pump are close...but almost too close.


Cleaned up and painted a 2F air cleaner, which was in great shape to begin with!




Cleaned and painted a couple horns and wiper motor.




Cleaned and painted carb cooling fan, pedal bucket and pedals.


 

Mounted new brake booster (city racer dual master), and both clutch and brake masters (fj80 brake master)


Installed some new oem reflectors.


Cleaned and painted ashtray, glovebox and instrument cluster bezel. This is a SEM rattle can oem color...it's close but not exact. It's also old from when I had Carey's truck.




And also refreshed the tank straps. Lucky that the cushions were in good and reusable condition.


And ladder bar got primed and painted.
 
Looking good man. I swear this is feeling so close to a restoration... admire the attention to detail!
 
Looking really good Jon. I would not use the aluminum AN fittings on the pressure side of the power steering. Contact PSC Motorsports Online for the proper steel AN fittings and pressure hose. Also make sure that the AN adapters you are using on the steering pump and the steering box have the proper flares on them as well.
 
NCFJ said:
Looking really good Jon. I would not use the aluminum AN fittings on the pressure side of the power steering. Contact PSC Motorsports Online for the proper steel AN fittings and pressure hose. Also make sure that the AN adapters you are using on the steering pump and the steering box have the proper flares on them as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stan. Yep, fittings are proper flares....luckily the box has the standard inverted style vs the oring style.

Out of curiosity, what's no good about the aluminum fittings?
 
It is generally accepted that the aluminum will not handle the pressure. I use the steel adapters as well to be on the safe side. I don't believe that proper pressure hose will fit in the aluminum fittings either. Won't swear on it.
 
Stan is correct on the aluminum fittings. Definitely use steel for the pressure side. I've never had a failure with aluminum fittings, but I've always used steel fittings.
 
NCFJ said:
It is generally accepted that the aluminum will not handle the pressure. I use the steel adapters as well to be on the safe side. I don't believe that proper pressure hose will fit in the aluminum fittings either. Won't swear on it.
Click to expand...

GLTHFJ60 said:
Stan is correct on the aluminum fittings. Definitely use steel for the pressure side. I've never had a failure with aluminum fittings, but I've always used steel fittings.
Click to expand...

Ordered steel AN adapter fittings...but I'm still a bit hesitant to believe the aluminum ones can't hold the pressure. As an experiment, I'm going to run the aluminum until they create issue, but have the steel ones in the truck. At the rate I put mileage on this thing it will be decades before they leak :bang:.
 
S4Cruiser said:
Ordered steel AN adapter fittings...but I'm still a bit hesitant to believe the aluminum ones can't hold the pressure. As an experiment, I'm going to run the aluminum until they create issue, but have the steel ones in the truck. At the rate I put mileage on this thing it will be decades before they leak :bang:.
Click to expand...

Agree. 60 PSI is a silly small amount of pressure for these fittings. I've had aluminum -AN to my remote oil cooler for 15+ years now.
 
Saginaw pumps are 800-1200psi depending on the specific flavor.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Saginaw pumps are 800-1200psi depending on the specific flavor.
Click to expand...

The Earl hose is rated for 3k psi...we'll see what the aluminum adapter fittings handle. The AN to hose fittings I have are already steel, black chromate finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom