- Thread starter
- #161
You can really see the resemblance
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #162
Ok getting back into 'why the hell won't this thing start?' after a 2.5 week hiatus of drinking wine in France.
I am completely stumped.
I need help.
I have rebuilt the carb. Replaced fuel pump and the fuel filter. So it's getting fuel.
Replaced the coil and got an inline spark tester and tested all the wires. All the plugs look good. It's getting spark to all cylinders.
Checked static timing. At TDC the distributor rotor is pointing to CYL 1. So the timing (as far as I can tell without it running) is right .
To cover all of my bases I got a compression tester. Cyl 5 is a little below 120psi, but all others are around 130. So this seems fine.
Starter is a newer style gear reduction starter and seems to crank the engine over just fine.
All of the requirements for an internal combustion engine to run seem to be met.
So why the hell is it not starting?
Anyone have any ideas?
I am completely stumped.
I need help.
I have rebuilt the carb. Replaced fuel pump and the fuel filter. So it's getting fuel.
Replaced the coil and got an inline spark tester and tested all the wires. All the plugs look good. It's getting spark to all cylinders.
Checked static timing. At TDC the distributor rotor is pointing to CYL 1. So the timing (as far as I can tell without it running) is right .
To cover all of my bases I got a compression tester. Cyl 5 is a little below 120psi, but all others are around 130. So this seems fine.
Starter is a newer style gear reduction starter and seems to crank the engine over just fine.
All of the requirements for an internal combustion engine to run seem to be met.
So why the hell is it not starting?
Anyone have any ideas?
- Thread starter
- #163
Ok so after some suggestions on the 40-tech forum I decided to go ahead and replace plugs and plug wires. Started right up and purrs!
Still need to do some carb tuning, but its fine for now while I move on to other things...
Namely the cooling system. I installed one of those Prestone flush kits that puts an in-line garden hose connection on the heater inlet and went to flushing.
Head drain was flowing, but absolutely nothing from the block drain!
Found out why... here's the drain. Completely plugged!
It still wasn't flowing even after removing that, so some digging around with a pick finally broke the dam free!
I'm going to go ahead and take a wild guess that my high temps on the gauge were legit. As I was running water through the system to flush it with the engine running the temp gauge never went above the 1/4 mark.
Glad we've got coolant circulating again! That couldn't have been good before. I'm surprised my head is in good shape..
Still need to do some carb tuning, but its fine for now while I move on to other things...
Namely the cooling system. I installed one of those Prestone flush kits that puts an in-line garden hose connection on the heater inlet and went to flushing.
Head drain was flowing, but absolutely nothing from the block drain!
Found out why... here's the drain. Completely plugged!
It still wasn't flowing even after removing that, so some digging around with a pick finally broke the dam free!
I'm going to go ahead and take a wild guess that my high temps on the gauge were legit. As I was running water through the system to flush it with the engine running the temp gauge never went above the 1/4 mark.
Glad we've got coolant circulating again! That couldn't have been good before. I'm surprised my head is in good shape..
- Thread starter
- #164
Alright! Coolant has been flushed, did a thermocure treatment and refilled/burped the system. She's back on the road and driving great!
Temperature gauge, however, still reads high. I'm guessing my sender unit is faulty. Is there any way I can test this?
Here's how it currently works. Key off it sits pegged at High. Turn Key on and it comes down to Cold. Engine on and warming up the needle gradually creeps up all the way to high (sometimes even a little past it).
I have a laser thermometer that I have used to read temperatures on the head, block and also the water, and they are not "hot" usually a max of 170-180F. So I really don't think the engine itself is actually getting hot. Regardless it was good that I flushed it as it was definitely overdue, and now my block drains freely and cleanly.
Temperature gauge, however, still reads high. I'm guessing my sender unit is faulty. Is there any way I can test this?
Here's how it currently works. Key off it sits pegged at High. Turn Key on and it comes down to Cold. Engine on and warming up the needle gradually creeps up all the way to high (sometimes even a little past it).
I have a laser thermometer that I have used to read temperatures on the head, block and also the water, and they are not "hot" usually a max of 170-180F. So I really don't think the engine itself is actually getting hot. Regardless it was good that I flushed it as it was definitely overdue, and now my block drains freely and cleanly.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,831
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Hit the radiator where the top hose is with an IR tester. You should be around 190-210 depending
Slight chance of air pocket with the flush still.
That drain roto root is a real pain in the ass. Been there.
Slight chance of air pocket with the flush still.
That drain roto root is a real pain in the ass. Been there.
- Thread starter
- #167
She's almost running like a new car now! Took her out this morning to run some errands before I head into work.
Got a few more things done. Changed the window felts in the passenger side. Have ordered some OEM weatherstripping so will do that once it's in. Still need to do the drivers side.. passenger was enough for one day as I ended up having to drill out most of the screws holding the tracks in as all of the philips heads stripped out like they were made of warm butter. Real pain in the ass.
Also got around the cleaning up my stereo install. Taped the box up with some 3m adhesive tape and hid the wires under the dash .
View attachment 1808160
Something to check on your cruisers when you do a coolant flush though...
Another little fun detail I noticed after reading through @ClemsonCruiser Wyreeka build is how y'all went nuts over those springs suspending the brake lines... Apparently they're rare to still be intact?
Well.... Look at this! Haha!
Both sides... Perfectly intact. Amazing!
Got a few more things done. Changed the window felts in the passenger side. Have ordered some OEM weatherstripping so will do that once it's in. Still need to do the drivers side.. passenger was enough for one day as I ended up having to drill out most of the screws holding the tracks in as all of the philips heads stripped out like they were made of warm butter. Real pain in the ass.
Also got around the cleaning up my stereo install. Taped the box up with some 3m adhesive tape and hid the wires under the dash .
View attachment 1808160
Something to check on your cruisers when you do a coolant flush though...
Another little fun detail I noticed after reading through @ClemsonCruiser Wyreeka build is how y'all went nuts over those springs suspending the brake lines... Apparently they're rare to still be intact?
Well.... Look at this! Haha!
Both sides... Perfectly intact. Amazing!
Attachments
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #168
Yeah I've done that I'm actually sitting around 180
- Thread starter
- #169
Feels good to be back on the road!
- Thread starter
- #170
Tuned the carb today with the lean drop method. Cheap inductive tach from Amazon did the job.
Also took some temperature readings from various places on the engine. Looks fine to me. Should get my new temperature sender in a few days .
And exhaust temp .
Also took some temperature readings from various places on the engine. Looks fine to me. Should get my new temperature sender in a few days .
And exhaust temp .
- Thread starter
- #171
Maytag finally got to do a little work today! Had some old scrap fencing that needed to go to the dump from some repairs I did a couple of months ago. Loaded up nicely!
Pippa was there to supervise.
In case any of you wondered what a LPB actually weighs.. Here you go... 3950lbs if you subtract my weight. Take a little more off for about 2/3rds of a tank of gas.
Pippa was there to supervise.
In case any of you wondered what a LPB actually weighs.. Here you go... 3950lbs if you subtract my weight. Take a little more off for about 2/3rds of a tank of gas.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,831
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Man. Great job. You have really done fine work on this one.
- Thread starter
- #173
Weatherstripping day! That OEM weatherstripping is super thick!
Did the doors and windshield frame. Also made sure to use rust converter on all surfaces.
Did the doors and windshield frame. Also made sure to use rust converter on all surfaces.
- Thread starter
- #174
I was also finally able to get the top off!
Treated that channel with rust converter and will also be priming and painting for extra protection. Ordered new lower weatherstripping as well. Will run around topless until that arrives.
Treated that channel with rust converter and will also be priming and painting for extra protection. Ordered new lower weatherstripping as well. Will run around topless until that arrives.
- Thread starter
- #175
I also noticed that my windshield hooks are actually the wrong style to actually work with my windshield. Rather than source the correct ones I opted to modify these to work. Just had to cut a little slot to allow the arm to move more .
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,831
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
That is on my list. I have all the rubber. Just need to nut up and do it.
Good job.
Good job.
- Thread starter
- #177
Wasn't too bad. The one I'm really scared to tackle, (and actually just might not because it seems to be holding up fine) is the roof cap rubber. I'm pretty sure if I try to take that off I'm going to be breaking every bolt.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,831
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
- Thread starter
- #179
Took a slightly chilly and very windy ride to Cars & Coffee yesterday morning. One of the regular photographers got some good shots.
- Thread starter
- #180
This weekend's main project was new bed mounts. Driving around with the top off allowed me to notice that the bed was not entirely secure going over bumps. All of the bed mount bolts were still intact, but several were loose, and almost all of the original canvas mounts had long since rotted away.
At one point I read about someone (can't remember who) using rubber horse stall mats as replacement mounts. They're durable dense rubber, and since I own a gym I have TONS of stall mat scraps laying around.
So I cut some small squares, and bored a hole.
Complete mounts with new stainless hardware.
Installing them was a breeze, once I got the old bolts on one side I used my Hi-lift jack to lift the bed a bit to slide the new mounts in.
These long skinny ones I had to end up gluing instead of using the screws that were in there.
Since the bed now sits slightly higher than before the bolts that attached the bumper sides at the corner of the wheelwells no longer lined up with their holes. Rather than drill new holes I opted to cut those sections off of the bumper. I like the simpler look now, and I think it makes sense to have the bumper only attached at the frame. That way if I ever get tapped on the rear bumper it won't transfer that energy intp the irreplaceable and nearly perfect bed.
At one point I read about someone (can't remember who) using rubber horse stall mats as replacement mounts. They're durable dense rubber, and since I own a gym I have TONS of stall mat scraps laying around.
So I cut some small squares, and bored a hole.
Complete mounts with new stainless hardware.
Installing them was a breeze, once I got the old bolts on one side I used my Hi-lift jack to lift the bed a bit to slide the new mounts in.
These long skinny ones I had to end up gluing instead of using the screws that were in there.
Since the bed now sits slightly higher than before the bolts that attached the bumper sides at the corner of the wheelwells no longer lined up with their holes. Rather than drill new holes I opted to cut those sections off of the bumper. I like the simpler look now, and I think it makes sense to have the bumper only attached at the frame. That way if I ever get tapped on the rear bumper it won't transfer that energy intp the irreplaceable and nearly perfect bed.
