From what I've read it seems the front diff breather is already ran up to the engine compartment. The thing I'm curious about is if that breather includes anything else that may need a breather (transmission, transfer case) less the rear diff. If that's the case then it should be pretty easy to replace the one way vent in the engine compartment with a two way breather and you're golden for everything but the rear.
Builds Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruiseroutfit
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Kurt.... more please.... AUX fuel thank, batteries, diff, gears, lockers, get real nerdy on us. I have a 100 and I'm looking to do the same trip Clay Croft and company did season 1 (AK) next year, but with about 250-280 mile range I will never make it with the 100 unless i strap on 5-6 jerry cans on top of the roof in front of the RTT. I'm thinking of selling my 100 due to the horrible range. What do you recommend I do, sell the 100 and get a 200 or keep adding to the 100, or just get something else all together?
- Thread starter
- #203
So new tires happened and I'm glad they did.
Now equipped with the Grabber X3 mud-terrain tires.
As some of you know I've spent some time traveling with the ExpeditionOverland crew the past couple of years. General Tire offered up some sets of pre-production X3's to the XO fleet for testing and feedback and I was able to get a set of 5 for the 200 Series. I've been very impressed with these tires. Certainly more noise than the K02's but less than KM2's in my not so scientific seat of the pants comparison. They are extremely durable based on my my initial trail time with them. I just completed a trip with XO (more on that soon
) that included many miles of tight timber trails. While we had guys out of foot for what felt like the entire way sawing and clearing deadfall, the tires were still getting the proverbial poke and prod from a variety of trunks and limbs. There was a point where we had a limb deflecting ~4" into the sidewall of the aired down tire and I was 100% positive the tire was going to roll out with a sidewall puncture. Nope, not even mark. General is really hyping their "Duragen" ply technology and I'm not hear to say it's better or worse than BFG's TriGard's or Goodyear's Dupont-Kevlar sidewalls but I'm pretty ecstatic how they've held up thus-far.
Prior to that trip I did a big southern Utah traverse in the 200 as a pre-run for the Drive to the Summit trip. We were running pretty fast/hard and I ran the tires fully inflated on a variety of trail surfaces from hard pack dirt to sand and gravel. No complaints, they were compliant, held traction nicely and didn't pick up an obnoxious amount of gravel in the treads.
Now equipped with the Grabber X3 mud-terrain tires.
As some of you know I've spent some time traveling with the ExpeditionOverland crew the past couple of years. General Tire offered up some sets of pre-production X3's to the XO fleet for testing and feedback and I was able to get a set of 5 for the 200 Series. I've been very impressed with these tires. Certainly more noise than the K02's but less than KM2's in my not so scientific seat of the pants comparison. They are extremely durable based on my my initial trail time with them. I just completed a trip with XO (more on that soon
) that included many miles of tight timber trails. While we had guys out of foot for what felt like the entire way sawing and clearing deadfall, the tires were still getting the proverbial poke and prod from a variety of trunks and limbs. There was a point where we had a limb deflecting ~4" into the sidewall of the aired down tire and I was 100% positive the tire was going to roll out with a sidewall puncture. Nope, not even mark. General is really hyping their "Duragen" ply technology and I'm not hear to say it's better or worse than BFG's TriGard's or Goodyear's Dupont-Kevlar sidewalls but I'm pretty ecstatic how they've held up thus-far.
Prior to that trip I did a big southern Utah traverse in the 200 as a pre-run for the Drive to the Summit trip. We were running pretty fast/hard and I ran the tires fully inflated on a variety of trail surfaces from hard pack dirt to sand and gravel. No complaints, they were compliant, held traction nicely and didn't pick up an obnoxious amount of gravel in the treads.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Sounds like something i should check out. Been thinking about the ko2, but they are a tad mild. This looks like a more aggressive AT or mild MT. Exited to see what sizes they come in.
Kurt, I want to thank you for sharing your experience and your 200 build thread. I am really enjoying it, and I appreciate you sharing what you have learned along the way; again thank you and good luck with your business and your truck and let's not forget....having fun.
My plans are similar in that I am going to sell my 100 and buy a 200. Build, retire, and travel with the wifey.
My plans are similar in that I am going to sell my 100 and buy a 200. Build, retire, and travel with the wifey.
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Kurt, did you have any issues with "PCS Temporarily Unavailable" with your winch control mounted front/center?
- Thread starter
- #207
I do recall have PCS but on the customers Sahara yes, particularly when the got a pile of snow on the solenoid box. Zero issues as one would expect once we relocated the box under the hood.
Hey Kurt @cruiseroutfit I have a general question for you related to the engine compartment components that aren't waterproof in their stock form. Lots of folks run snorkels, and also dual battery setups, and I've also heard that the stock air boxes aren't water tight. So realistically are there other things you should do to your truck before you decide to ford in deep water? I've seen many dual battery setups where there are fuse boxes mounted under the hood and don't think they are waterproof (for example Blue Sea), even the BS ACR 7622 that a lot of folks use is only IP66 and not meant to be submerged. I'm planning my dual battery install now and don't know how overboard I should go in trying to get any non-waterproof components either in the cab or protected. In general should I be worried about this at all? Are the stock fuse boxes even watertight and do they need to be? I did note that the dual ARB compressor is water sealed.
Regarding the airbox if you download the safari snorkel installation instructions it shows how to seal the airbox, there's a drain plug under the filter and you just need to seal it with silicone.
I'm not @cruiseroutfit and I know you didn't ask me but I figured I'd chime into your question anyways! I can't speak to the 200 LC per se since I haven't tried it on my own but I will speak to the 5.7L engine in the LC as it is the same in my Tundra. My first trip through H2O burned my alternator up! There are many stories of this happening on the 5.7 and I'm surprised I don't see it talked about more here in the 200 forum. In the Tundra forums, there are numerous reports of this happening. In my case, I crossed a flooded stream that was not more then 30" deep. Within an hour, my battery was dying and I realized I was no longer getting a charge. Luckily I was close to home and able to get to a trickle charger. After a recharge and a good bath, I took it to the dealer since it was still under warranty and they replaced it at no charge. After the experience, I read that numerous 5.7 owners have had the same problem. The alternator is mounted on the lower passenger side of the block and is susceptible to water damage.
Another mod to consider before forging water is a rear differential remote breather. A cheap and easy fix to relocate it to the driver side tail light. Many tutorials on how to do this in the Tundra forums.
I mounted my blue sea 12 fuse box in one of these:
Hammond 1591ESBK ABS Project Box Black - Electrical Boxes - Amazon.com
I had to drill holes to run the battery leads and each of the circuits. Lots of grommets, and some RTB black squeezed around the battery cables since 2/1 (or whatever I used... I can't recall offhand) is quite thick and not terrible flexible. I'm not convinced what I did is 100% waterproof, but I'm pretty sure it will hold up for a short while if I forded a stream. That said even with a snorkel the fuse blocks are mounted pretty high, so if there's water up near my windshield I'm probably in well over my head at that point, even with a (future) snorkel
Thanks for the responses, gents! My take-away is there's a lot of work to do if you truly want things watertight. I think the alternator feedback is most alarming, and I'll be avoiding anything over a couple feet deep. In which case... I'll probably not worry so much about getting all the 2nd battery components airtight and rather focus on convenient locations that are higher in the engine bay, but not necessarily in the cabin.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Super curious about this alternator question & whether it is specific to the 5.7. Does the 5.7 have a completely different alternator than 200s overseas of differing grunt?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I would not worry too much about the alt ..
It will work even under water .. while it's not the best scenario ain't gonna die just that easy .. actually dual battery setup, batteries etc .. hold nice .. what didn't hold ( to me ) were the electric fans ..
It will work even under water .. while it's not the best scenario ain't gonna die just that easy .. actually dual battery setup, batteries etc .. hold nice .. what didn't hold ( to me ) were the electric fans ..
That's a badass video Tapage but that doesn't look like a 200 series with a 5.7?
I'm not crying wolf and I don't know if there is a different alternator on the 5.7's in other countries? I also am not sure if the US 5.7 in the Tundra uses a different alternator then the ones built in Japan and used in our 200's but I know of numerous Tundra owners, including myself who have had to replace alternators due to water intrusion and it is primarily because of where it is mounted. Low on the passenger side.
I'm not crying wolf and I don't know if there is a different alternator on the 5.7's in other countries? I also am not sure if the US 5.7 in the Tundra uses a different alternator then the ones built in Japan and used in our 200's but I know of numerous Tundra owners, including myself who have had to replace alternators due to water intrusion and it is primarily because of where it is mounted. Low on the passenger side.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Actually, our US LCs *are* built in Japan.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
isn't .. !
But my alt it's a Tundra 150 amp alt .. don't think the Alt itself it's really much different in any other Toyota .. bottom line is, the alt might be the least of your problems ..
the alternator on Tencha ( I did absolutely nothing to it after that bath ) it's still working like the first day ..
The alternator location has been an issue on the 1VD diesel as well - similar mounting position. I've got one that has done a few water crossings - never been a problem. I also have a mate who had one in his 70 Series ute that failed after driving through a puddle.....
