Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter rph74
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- Thread starter
- #62
hoser said:
That's what I was thinking.
I'm going to be doing a starter change as soon as I get my new starter in. This is a great thread - I was a bit hesitant before reading this post - but now I think I'll give it a shot. The tip on taking photos to remember is great. Incidently I got a quote of $300 (4 hrs labor) excluding parts from two independent shops.
Will put another post once I get through or if I get stuck.
Will put another post once I get through or if I get stuck.
Just did mine at 106k after I had 5 turns of the key with no response in the middle of the night after work.
General access - I laid an Army surplus 6 foot-long 3/4 inch closed-cell foam foam pad across the front of the vehicle. Protected me from everything but the hood latch hook. Consider taping some protection over that bastard. Remove the air box as suggested. Only three bolts and unclipping one wire for a good access point when lifting and returning the manifold.
Tools -
A piece of 3/4" plywood cut to bridge the V and rest on the intakes would be worth the time to make. I didn't take the needed measurement so I'll leave that to someone else.
Get a new plunger. Mine was worn about halfway through the thickness of the contact plate and looked worse than the contacts themselves. Pics attached. #1 - worn contacts #2 - plunger new and old
Blue Injector clips - almost impossible to remove by hand but easy using adjustable pliers gently - did not break any when using the pliers
POS starter bolts - unbolt the wiring harness bracket dead center on top of the transmission case. This harness holds four harnesses and once loose it is possible to shift the wires as needed. I used a 3/8 ratchet with an 3/8->1/2 adapter and then a 14mm deep impact socket. The impact socket had "guide ramps" on the face of the socket that helped get it on the bolt. I didn't try but might consider a piece of electrical tape run down the inside of the socket so once it was on the bolt head it would not slip off when you are forced to retreat and unkink your back.
The fuel filter. You will already have the hose off one end and a little fuel spilled if following the board instructions. 90-100k is a good time to replace and mine was full of sediment when I cut it open.
Have some carb/throttle body cleaner ready. Cleaning was a 5 minute job with everything disassembled and these are known to cause problems when "gunk" messes them up.
I replaced my PCV valve but my old one looked fine.
Mistakes to avoid -
Took me about 7 hours but I felt I accomplished something and it is the biggest vehicle mechanical challenge I have ever tackled. The extremely solid start after buttoning back up was very gratifying.
The actual replacement parts inside the starter are very easy so if you are already doing the work get the contacts rather than a new starter. just make sure they fit flush. I pushed my new plunger onto the contacts and rotated it until I could see the contact marks and ensured that they were even.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
General access - I laid an Army surplus 6 foot-long 3/4 inch closed-cell foam foam pad across the front of the vehicle. Protected me from everything but the hood latch hook. Consider taping some protection over that bastard. Remove the air box as suggested. Only three bolts and unclipping one wire for a good access point when lifting and returning the manifold.
Tools -
LED headlamp - great for seeing behind the starter
Magnetic pick up tool - basically required to remove /install bolts
Screwdriver with electrical tape on end for gently prying reluctant hoses
Magnetic pick up tool - basically required to remove /install bolts
Screwdriver with electrical tape on end for gently prying reluctant hoses
A piece of 3/4" plywood cut to bridge the V and rest on the intakes would be worth the time to make. I didn't take the needed measurement so I'll leave that to someone else.
Get a new plunger. Mine was worn about halfway through the thickness of the contact plate and looked worse than the contacts themselves. Pics attached. #1 - worn contacts #2 - plunger new and old
Blue Injector clips - almost impossible to remove by hand but easy using adjustable pliers gently - did not break any when using the pliers
POS starter bolts - unbolt the wiring harness bracket dead center on top of the transmission case. This harness holds four harnesses and once loose it is possible to shift the wires as needed. I used a 3/8 ratchet with an 3/8->1/2 adapter and then a 14mm deep impact socket. The impact socket had "guide ramps" on the face of the socket that helped get it on the bolt. I didn't try but might consider a piece of electrical tape run down the inside of the socket so once it was on the bolt head it would not slip off when you are forced to retreat and unkink your back.
noah said:
The fuel filter. You will already have the hose off one end and a little fuel spilled if following the board instructions. 90-100k is a good time to replace and mine was full of sediment when I cut it open.
Have some carb/throttle body cleaner ready. Cleaning was a 5 minute job with everything disassembled and these are known to cause problems when "gunk" messes them up.
I replaced my PCV valve but my old one looked fine.
Mistakes to avoid -
Don't lean on the coolant pipe in the V next to the starter.
Take care with the breather tubes on the top of the starter. they are shown as a one time use item in the FSM because they are made with a brittle plastic clip inside that breaks off easily.
Don't mistake the manifold cover for the manifold. If you are removing a dozen short, easy-to-access bolts you are removing the wrong part.
Take care with the breather tubes on the top of the starter. they are shown as a one time use item in the FSM because they are made with a brittle plastic clip inside that breaks off easily.
Don't mistake the manifold cover for the manifold. If you are removing a dozen short, easy-to-access bolts you are removing the wrong part.
Took me about 7 hours but I felt I accomplished something and it is the biggest vehicle mechanical challenge I have ever tackled. The extremely solid start after buttoning back up was very gratifying.
The actual replacement parts inside the starter are very easy so if you are already doing the work get the contacts rather than a new starter. just make sure they fit flush. I pushed my new plunger onto the contacts and rotated it until I could see the contact marks and ensured that they were even.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
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- Thread starter
- #65
Glad we could help. Congratulations on a job well done.
Chris
Chris
Old thread but I might have some useful info to add.
Did the starter on my 100 around 3 years ago @ approx. 85k miles. Had it rebuilt by a local shop I had used for years for VW GTI starters and alternator repair, etc.
Used this thread then and it was very helpful even in it's early stage.
Well, starter went again at 111k miles!
This time bought a Toyota reman. starter from the local dealer. Was able to talk them into a 15% discount and when I return the core for refund total cost will be $241 incl tax.
Did it in 3.5 hrs w/ my Dad assisting. We did not rush and I did some cleaning vacuuming of other areas in the engine compartment.
I removed the entire air cleaner housing and the other large black plastic apparatus in the PS engine compartment. The job is much easier using this spot to sit / crouch on your feet, while you work. You will be "standing" on the body colored sheetmetal under the air cleaner box, it is plenty strong and you should not break anything.
Another tip: take the DS (harder to reach of the 2) starter bolt out first as it will finger turn (with a deep 14mm socket) if the PS bolt is still tight.
Summary:
1. I'd buy a Toyota starter
2. Remove entire air cleaner assembly
3. Have assistant to hand you tools & help take intake on and off.
4.
I hope this helps someone and thanks to all that have made this repair much more doable.
-Mark
Did the starter on my 100 around 3 years ago @ approx. 85k miles. Had it rebuilt by a local shop I had used for years for VW GTI starters and alternator repair, etc.
Used this thread then and it was very helpful even in it's early stage.
Well, starter went again at 111k miles!
This time bought a Toyota reman. starter from the local dealer. Was able to talk them into a 15% discount and when I return the core for refund total cost will be $241 incl tax.Did it in 3.5 hrs w/ my Dad assisting. We did not rush and I did some cleaning vacuuming of other areas in the engine compartment.
I removed the entire air cleaner housing and the other large black plastic apparatus in the PS engine compartment. The job is much easier using this spot to sit / crouch on your feet, while you work. You will be "standing" on the body colored sheetmetal under the air cleaner box, it is plenty strong and you should not break anything.
Another tip: take the DS (harder to reach of the 2) starter bolt out first as it will finger turn (with a deep 14mm socket) if the PS bolt is still tight.
Summary:
1. I'd buy a Toyota starter
2. Remove entire air cleaner assembly
3. Have assistant to hand you tools & help take intake on and off.
4.
I hope this helps someone and thanks to all that have made this repair much more doable.
-Mark
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Matador98
SILVER Star
Looks like I'll be pulling my manifold soon, as I have similar symptons, except one I want to check here.
I'm getting the clicking, I checked the ground, which looks good at the battery, but what about the ground off of the starter? Is there one, if so, where? Does it go underneath to the frame? I cleaned my terminals, and I still have the problem.
With the clicking (some of the time) it will turn over one or two turns, and then "jam". I'm thinking it's the same thing...contacts, when it gets to the dead spot and doesn't have the momentum yet to carry through. Anyways, it always starts up after three tries at most. So my point is I think it is still contacts, and not a current issue. Battey is 12.5V when sitting, and 11.3V when it is clicking or "jammed", and 14.2V when running and charging.
I have to drive it for Thanksgiving 200 miles and I think I will, but would like to order the plunger and contacts so they'll be into my dealer by Friday for the tear down Saturday. Does anybody have the part #s for a '99? That would help a lot. Also, I read in another thread the intake gaskets don't need changed, but what about the throttle body gasket?
So, anyboy have the numbers, and do you guys agree with my diagnosis?
I'm getting the clicking, I checked the ground, which looks good at the battery, but what about the ground off of the starter? Is there one, if so, where? Does it go underneath to the frame? I cleaned my terminals, and I still have the problem.
With the clicking (some of the time) it will turn over one or two turns, and then "jam". I'm thinking it's the same thing...contacts, when it gets to the dead spot and doesn't have the momentum yet to carry through. Anyways, it always starts up after three tries at most. So my point is I think it is still contacts, and not a current issue. Battey is 12.5V when sitting, and 11.3V when it is clicking or "jammed", and 14.2V when running and charging.
I have to drive it for Thanksgiving 200 miles and I think I will, but would like to order the plunger and contacts so they'll be into my dealer by Friday for the tear down Saturday. Does anybody have the part #s for a '99? That would help a lot. Also, I read in another thread the intake gaskets don't need changed, but what about the throttle body gasket?
So, anyboy have the numbers, and do you guys agree with my diagnosis?
Andy,
I am looking at my receipt from the Toyota dealer, part number:
28100-50100-84 0016 REMAN STARTER
List: $268.89
Net: $228.56
Core Deposit: $30
I did not replace any gaskets, just be real careful of dropping things in the engine, as I had dirt and debris under the intake.
-Mark
I am looking at my receipt from the Toyota dealer, part number:
28100-50100-84 0016 REMAN STARTER
List: $268.89
Net: $228.56
Core Deposit: $30
I did not replace any gaskets, just be real careful of dropping things in the engine, as I had dirt and debris under the intake.
-Mark
Matador - Sounds like contacts to me.
After doing all the R&R work replacing the contacts themselves is cake. 15 minutes tops. I wouldn't go with a new or refurb starter unless we find out they have design changes to keep the contacts from wearing out.
After doing all the R&R work replacing the contacts themselves is cake. 15 minutes tops. I wouldn't go with a new or refurb starter unless we find out they have design changes to keep the contacts from wearing out.
Matador98
SILVER Star
Done. About 2 hours to get it all apart with contacts in hand to take to the dealer, and about another hour and a half to get it all back together. It starts much stronger now. Oh, and I did clean the intake as best I could without pulling it in two. That thing was dirty, but what I could get to is clean now, and I soaked the inside with cleaner, let it sit, and then drained the dirty crap out.
Removing the 10mm bolt off of the tranny bellhousing that mounts the series of wire bundles is an absolute must. It enabled me to get to the driver side 14mm bolt fairly easily, it wasn't bad at all. The biggest bitch for me was the positive connection to the starter, 12mm, under the plastic cover. I was so pissed off, but I got it off.
Anyways, lots of good tricks in this thread, and I would follow them all. It made for a relatively painless job, as it was still easier than I thought.
If anybody cares, I have pictures, so if you want or need them when you do this job, PM me.
So, long story short, 4 hours of work to replace $10.27 worth of parts. Awesome.
Removing the 10mm bolt off of the tranny bellhousing that mounts the series of wire bundles is an absolute must. It enabled me to get to the driver side 14mm bolt fairly easily, it wasn't bad at all. The biggest bitch for me was the positive connection to the starter, 12mm, under the plastic cover. I was so pissed off, but I got it off.
Anyways, lots of good tricks in this thread, and I would follow them all. It made for a relatively painless job, as it was still easier than I thought.
If anybody cares, I have pictures, so if you want or need them when you do this job, PM me.
So, long story short, 4 hours of work to replace $10.27 worth of parts. Awesome.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Did you replace the TB to head gasket?
EDITED: 2020
Had I open this thread.
1) I edit OP to 1st read in bold print: Clean top of engine very first thing. We do not want dust/sand getting into engine internals, It will likely cause compression issue.
Blowing out intake port with HP air after intake manifold off, is a bad idea; Dust may stick to oily valves seats & steams, cylinder walls and piston tops. Sand/dust may get lodged in between piston and cylinder walls. It's as bad as running engine with no air filter or bad air seal to intake, if not worst.
2) I'd also change the tile to 98-02. Or at least note: Toyota does not sell contacts and plunger for 03-
3) Best practice, is to replace all gasket that are removed.
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Matador98
SILVER Star
No, I replaced no gaskets. I cleaned them all, but they were all reuseable and in great shape.
cruiser100
Comfortably Numb
This may be a "duh" question, but is this a known issue on the '05's as well?
I don't think the board knows yet whether the changes to the starter made in March 2000 eliminate the starter contact problem.
The fact that the contacts part# changed is encouraging. The fact that CruiserDan can get you both types easily is not.
It would be nice if one of the folks doing this job and replacing the entire starter motor with a new unit with the new part number would open it up and see if it is different at the contacts. Or if someone works in a Toyota parts department and wants to pull the 2002+ contacts out of a bin and photograph them for us so we can see how they are different that would work too.
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i am getting ready to replace the whole starter on my 2000 lc and this post is just great - i will use it no doubt - the question on the starter and if the contacts have been upgraded really interest me - i have no burning desire to go back into the engine just to change a starter -- anyone have an update on this or like to suggest a starter and a place to buy - not really eager to purchase a new one from toyota place but i would like to buy the best starter for the money even if i have to go the toyota route - any suggestions for a starter ?? thanks
Go to the top right corner of this page, and click on "Support our Advertising Vendors." Find the American Toyota link, and call Dan at that number. He is VERY prompt and gives good discounts on Genuine Toyota parts to Mud participants.........OEM is usually the best way to go if it's affordable, and Dan makes it more-so that way
thanks dnp - i did just that - im awaiting an email repsonse and if no response i will call -- just for the sake of being prepared - guestimate a cost on a new oem toyota starter for me - yea im sitting down - tahnks
See post # 68. I was able to get my local dealer to discount a little.
-Mark
-Mark
- Thread starter
- #79
FWIW even if there is no update, it has now been 4 years and about 35k since I replaced my contacts and still going strong. I personally wouldn't spend the extra for an entire starter when you can get contacts for $25.
Matador98
SILVER Star
X1000!
