Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (7 Viewers)

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I job like this, I don't like rebuild parts and that's why i got this part, plus the othe members who replace the contacts and plunger and it didn't work.
Thanks all now i have to wait till it gets a bit warmer.

Here are the pictures i took.
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Can you remove the cover w/ the three bolts and shoot a picture inside ? Thats where all the improvements will be.
 
Appears identical to the OME parts in my 98 so I would say the new Toyota parts have no improvements in the starter contacts.

Thanks for taking the pictures.
 
FYI I broke the rubber breather off of the starter when I did this and 4 years later everything is still ok. So it's not the end of the world if that breather tube comes off.

Here's a pic of what my original contacts looked like before I changed them back in 2003.

That's good to hear. I did the same thing trying to wrestle it outta there, but it was such a bitch, I said forget it and didn't fix it. I, as well, figured it would be ok, especially in my climate.
 
Here are the pics I used to help put everything back together.
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Well fellows I had good weather today so off to work i went. I was fearing this job,but it wasn't that bad at all, except for that bottom starter bolt. I unplug two of the plugs on the tranny case and out it came.

Well i end up throwing money in Toyota's pocket, don't buy the whole assy like i did. The two screws that whole the case together,not the motor are so tight,the heads would start to strip off,i guess there are in with lock tight. So i just change the contacts out. In all not bad, I have done harder jobs (say removing the stock turbos on my supra), so total time spent working was about 2 1/2 hrs. Toyota gave me the wrong gasket, so i end up using the old ones.
 
This is the approximate area of the ground wire that I called the "hidden bolt". Just when you think you've got all the bolts for the intake manifold off, this may be hanging you up.

I didn't have to unbolt that grd, there is a quick disconnect for it.
 
This is the stupid bracket that got in the way of putting everything back together. I removed it, and I haven't missed it.

BTW, this is where the negative cable is to be attached when getting a jump start (instead of to the negative battery terminal).
 
It CAN be used for that, but that's an engine hoist bracket

I know, but it's recommended in the owner's manual (at least in one version of it):

4. Make the cable connections in the order
a, b, c, d.
a. Connect the clamp of the positive
(red) jumper cable to the positive ( )
terminal on the discharged battery.
b. Connect the clamp at the other end
of the positive (red) jumper cable to
the positive ( ) terminal on the booster
battery.
c. Connect the clamp of the negative
(black) jumper cable to the negative (- )
terminal on the booster battery.
d. Connect the clamp at the other end
of the negative (black) jumper cable to
a solid, stationary, unpainted, metallic
point of the vehicle with the discharged
battery.
The recommended connecting point is
shown in the following illustration:

jumpstart.gif

Connecting point
Do not connect the cable to or near
any part that moves when the engine
is cranked.

2004 L/C100 from Aug ’03 Prod. (OM60A04U)

I've never used that point, anyway.
Ad, er, sorry for the hijacking.
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First post - & it is to express my appreciation for all the good information in this thread. My good wife actually found this in an internet search describing the problem.
I ordered the contacts & plunger & we both set to it today. The Mrs was an incredible help too! Overall, we executed in about 4 hrs total, including a few small breaks. 2-1/2 to dis-assemble and about an hour to go back together.

Some useful assets:
universal joint for the sockets; (for the starter bolts)
My Husky Pro rotating speed ratchet (everyone should get one of these - its my absolute favourite tool in my collection)
Magnet on extender rod - especially for re-installing the plenum bolts & nuts;
A heavy blanket (actually a movers padding blanket) draped over the front end;
a couple of gardening rubber knee pads. (for kneeling on the heads while removing the starter)

I took the precaution of re-attaching the battery connection & checking starter operation after it was initially re-installed - remember to remove the fuse for the fuel pump first! I didn't want to take it all apart again if there was a problem - this only takes a few minutes and I believe is worth while, even if there is little risk of error in the contacts/plunger replacement.

Worst part of the job? Actually, believe it or not, I would have to say getting the fuel injector connectors off - once you get the trick down it is much easier but they can be a pain to get to release! Also getting the yellow cover off the starter contact panel - that was frustrating to say the least! These plastic snaps (both references) work great when assembling but royal pain to disengage.
OK - not like these were serious challenges, but all told, these were the points of frustration for me, not any of the mechanical fasteners.

Getting the plenum out & in again presented no real challenges - I'm not sure why the lift hooks presented a problem for some, they were no obstacle for me, even minutely. The awkward part was dealing with the fuel hose (pressure side) and tucking that under the harness while removing the plenum (& similarly in reverse)

For the starter itself, yes the 'hidden' bolt is a little tricky - but I found these bolts, once 'cracked' turned fairly freely by hand, or aided by the rotating ratchet handle (see link above).
For me,the universal joint (wobble) adapter on a 3/8" 14mm regular (not deep) socket was ideal - sequence is (from bolt obviously) socket, wobble, 3" extension & ratchet to 'crack', then remove ratchet & 3" extension & rotate the socket & wobble by hand. (or use the rotating ratchet if still a little snug)

So in closing, again, my appreciation for a thorough preview of the job at hand - it meant there was no real head-scratching trying to figure out what comes next!
 
Great thread. My starter went out and I definately could not have done this without all the previous posts. However, once reassembled I tried to start it up and the car clicked once and then all the power went out. It looks like a fuse was blown, not sure which one yet. I assume it is either the starter or ignition fuse or maybe some sub fuse....
I just can't figure what I may have missed on the starter install? The ignition line was simply a clip and the power harness locked on thru a nut and then the ground. I really don't want to tear it open again so I am hoping for a simpler fix!!! Was wondering if anyone a) had this issue before or b) have any suggestions. Appreciate it....
 
Great thread. My starter went out and I definately could not have done this without all the previous posts. However, once reassembled I tried to start it up and the car clicked once and then all the power went out. It looks like a fuse was blown, not sure which one yet. I assume it is either the starter or ignition fuse or maybe some sub fuse....
I just can't figure what I may have missed on the starter install? The ignition line was simply a clip and the power harness locked on thru a nut and then the ground. I really don't want to tear it open again so I am hoping for a simpler fix!!! Was wondering if anyone a) had this issue before or b) have any suggestions. Appreciate it....
It may sound too simple, but the first place I'd start would be the battery cables. A click, followed by "lights out," are the exact symptoms of a corroded battery connection. Remove the cables from the battery posts, clean both sides of the connections (cables and posts), and reattach.....if that's not your problem, you can start searching from there, but I'd try that first.......hope it works
 
I just finished up with the starter, and I chose to replace the whole starter. I also replaced the intake gaskets, to be on the safe side. Total time from start to lunch 4 hrs. That included keeping an eye on the kids, and cleaning up. If I had to do it again without distractions.. it can be done in under 3.

Thanks for all who have contributed.

Oh, to add my tip: I used a deep socket for the "hard" bolt while sitting inside the engine compartment, and it was much easier than I expected.
 
still looking for some help with the correct parts to get.

There is a ton of help for the starter in this thread and thanks to all. I had to do mine last week in a rush, but it wasn't as bad as I thought. I ordered the contacts from the local dealer who treats me right. So here are the numbers if people need them. Some dealers just like to sell starters and not the parts.
Long contact (battery cable side) Part # 28226-54412
Short contact (starter motor side) Part # 28226-72010
Plunger unit Part # 28235-54380

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They sure do wear from all the arcing in there...
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Just wish I could be installing the blower over the starter..
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Thanks again for all the help guys.
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Gentlemen,

The starter contacts on our 2000 LC have apparently taken the big dive. Driven yesterday, just fine, after some intermittant cold starting problems I wrote off to battery. This morning, plenty of current, nothing at the starter.

With 105K on the vehicle (we bought it new) how many miles is the OEM starter good for with the contacts renewed? That seems to be what most of you are doing rather than changing out the starter itself. Getting at the thing is a big enough pain that I would expect most would replace a 100K starter motor assembly rather than just the contacts and plunger assy.

Thanks for feedback on this one.

Unfortunately I just had abdominal surgery done two weeks ago, and can't lift more than 20# for another month. My indy shop gets $300 for the job without the starter. Will give CDan a call to see what his price is on a starter.
 
I just did contacts when I did my wife's at 200K or so last year. Toyota hasn't changed starter designs in YEARS. The UZJ starter is almost identical (save for bolt attachments, etc.) to the starter in my FJ60, of which I have only replaced contacts as well (at 190K or so). IMOP, it's a waste to replace the starter, the Toyota starters are indestructible and have wear parts for a reason. They are stout and will go forever as long as the wearable parts are changed when necessary.
 
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Curious to know if Toyota even sells "new" starters or are they just rebuilt? The interval seems to vary quite a bit, based more on the shear number of starts rather than mileage.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply. I suppose I am not used to the starter motors lasting that long (bearings/bushings/brushes/armature). I think I may order the contacts and plunger and save a couple of hundred scoots. My indy mechanic can get a new denso for $208.

If all it needs is contacts and a plunger, I will go with that. The thing turns over as fast as it ever did with a hot battery, so the starter motor innards are prolly OK??
 

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