Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (2 Viewers)

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Devil's Advocate

While the contacts are <$25, what about the plunger? I bought a new NSA unit for $200 delivered with no core. Installation took 4.5 hours or so and was still a be-otch.

Anyone want a core from a 2000? $50?
 
fellas dan must be on vacation or something - i have sent 2 emails and left messages for dan but have yet to hear from him - i sure would like to get this starter in before some kind of ugly snow ice storm hits - anyone suggest another salesman or another business ??
 
I don't see the pictures the OP was posting?? Also, taking off the intake manifold?? Is the starter INSIDE the block???!
 
I don't see the pictures the OP was posting?? Also, taking off the intake manifold?? Is the starter INSIDE the block???!

Yes, inside the V. That's what makes this a time consuming job.

It stinks that the pictures have disappeared. It would be nice if there was a way to "archive" remote hosted pics when a thread is placed on the FAQ or something.
 
Glad my starter sounds very robust!
 
Take a minute and read through the 15 steps in the 1st post. If all the terms ring a bell (such as MAS, accelerator cable, throttle body, etc.) and you have the tools:

Metric socket set at least from 8mm to 14mm
14mm open end wrench
12mm open end wrench
long extension
wobble extension
universal joint extension
mechanic's extendable magnet
needle nose pliers
small flashlight with good batteries that you can hold in your mouth *or* a very patient person to hold it for you
GLOVES

Then I would say give it a shot. This thread pretty much covers everything, but I'll throw out a some things that stuck out:

1. I thought I could get by without the extendable magnet, that proved to be a bad idea, and caused a trip to the parts store.

2. Every time you remove an assembly put the nuts/bolts in a zip lock baggie with the contents of the bag written in sharpie on said bag. It makes keeping track of all the hardware a breeze and takes very little time.

3. Consider putting a twist tie, flagging tape, or some other type of easily removeable marker on all the disconnected vaccuum lines. This helps with reassembly, making it much easier ensure everything gets reconnected.

4. The pliers are most useful for disconnecting the fuel injectors and other assorted wiring clips.

5. The fuel "bolt" that connects the fuel line to the supply rail on the driver's side of the manifold is about 20mm, I used an adjustable crescent wrench with no issues.

6. The ground wire on the back of the manifold may have a quick disconnect in the wire between the manifold and the firewall. I had already reached behind the manifold and unscrewed the wire before I realized this, however it did make reassembly a bit easier.

7. A folded up old blanket laid over the radiator/throttle body/general front of engine bay makes a decent pad to lay on when reaching WAY back to remove the starter from the v-bank.

8. The breather caps on the new starter will break off if you so much as look at them funny. And advance autoparts does not carry a replacement plastic clip :bang:.

9. It's possible to trap the throttle body if you don't take care to make sure it's out of the way when bolting the manifold back down.

10. Putting a small square of paper towel in the socket to hold the nuts/bolts in the socket when bolting the manifold back down makes life a lot easier for those of us without magnetic sockets. At least one person posted pictures using packing paper instead of paper towels.

11. Patience. It will take 4 hours+ if you're not at least a shade tree mechanic.
 
Well fellows the time has come clicking when cold.Mine is a 98 LC with 155k. Hope its not too cold this weekend. I can't even use the garage,the supra is in storage for the winter.
 
starter is here and gasket set is here -- i got one question - the little black rubber tube on the starter is on there but in the box there was another tube with the white plastic clip inside of one end is also in there -- where does the extra black rubber tube go ??? it looks almost identical to the one thats on the starter already - is it an extra just in case i break the other one off ?? or does it go somewhere else ?? and i need to put it in its place ?? thanks and wish me luck - LOL calling for another 3-4 in snow tomorrow - yea what timing ;p
 
I remember two tubes on the starter I took off and the new one. Is there no where to stick it?

You should see two on the starter you take off your truck.

-Mark
 
i tell ya - i believe that is just an extra for some reason - i just looked at a pic of the starter and i only see the one rubber tube - it does have the rubber cover for the hot cable i guess but only one vent tube - so i guess they just through an extra in there for me ? anyone else got suggestion thanks
 
figured it out -- it has only one - the extra is a broken one - the little white plastic keeper is broke on the one in the bottom of the box - i guess htey just didnt want to throw it in the can for me - you can see the little tab inside is broke and the new one on the starter is fine - i havent started on the intake yet - took the cover off of bottom to change an O2 sensor first then im gonna tackle the big stuff in the morning - brotherinlaw is coming over so i can hand him the intake LOL - i took pics of everything but i hope i dont need them - thanks all for the help and and the fella that started this post - i would sure do some kind of shaking your hand for writing this up on a starter change :D
 
Yes, inside the V. That's what makes this a time consuming job.

It stinks that the pictures have disappeared. It would be nice if there was a way to "archive" remote hosted pics when a thread is placed on the FAQ or something.

I have pictures if anybody wants 'em. Just PM me and I'll email them out.
 
well MISSION COMPLETE -- and you dont have to go underneath to get that driver side bolt - just the right combination of swivel and socket and do it from drivers side so you can get a good pull --- all went well and dont waste money on the gasket either - i appreciate this post - did it in 4 hrs and thats with taking my time - oh replaced a O2 sensor also so i am good to go - thanks to the fellas that made this post
 
ya know i need to follow up on a mistake though - the vent tubes on the starter - well the new starter came with two and i was wrong about an extra being in there - it was broke - it belongs at the rear of starter on top - the clip was broke during shipping i guess - well it had half the clip still in it so i put some silicone around the edge and put the clip in on one side and siliconed the other and it looked like it was holding well when the intake went back on - was gonna use one of the clips from the old starter but they fell apart
 
Guys i ordered the parts for my starter, but i didn't order contacts, i order the switch assy that is in the square below in the picture, it comes with everything one piece and it cost me $95 plus the intake gasket. The question is was it better to do this or i got the wrong parts.

CCF01252008_00000.jpg
 
jahmaka if you spent 95 just for the contacts and plunger assembly then why not go ahead and get a complete starter ?? - several auto parts sell the remanufactured starter for less than 90 (minus core) and some even have a lifetime warranty -- i did ask if that included labor :D and of course it did not - 95 just seems a little high for plunger and contacts - go back and read in this thread about checking the plunger to make sure it makes good contact before replacing intake back on
 
Parts store rebuilts/refurbs are a bad plan for this job. Either get the parts you need and do it yourself with appropriate attention to detail or buy a Toyota OEM part. Don't lay down your labor (and probably some blood) and then install a questionable starter. See MARK SR.'s sob story in page three of this thread.

I have had very little luck with rebuilt starters or alternators. Probably 50% adequate 50% defective.

still looking for some help with the correct parts to get.

You bought more than you need and less than a full starter. You only need the plunger and contacts. Maybe a spare breather tube. cruiserdan is the man to ask. You can get it all for about $30.

You might have found a way for those who don't want a whole rebuild but don't trust themselves to align the contacts to do the repair (very easy and easy to check). At this point I say let it ride and see how it works out. Maybe you could take a picture of your new part and we could see if Mr. T has made any changes to the system to improve wear.
 
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